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I found a site that said Widder rated their new vest at ~48W on the high end. If I had a lot of idling on my ride, like long periods of riding below 4000 RPM, I'd probably feel a little worried about battery levels dropping and want a voltage meter of some sort on the bike to keep an eye on it. IIRC 4000 RPM is ~10 mph in first and 28 mph in 4th on the stock configuration, and there's a few options for voltage monitoring.The value "60 watts" has been thrown around but I can't verify. There are a few threads about the charging system and accessories.
If you can find the rated current draw of the vest that may be a good starting point. If it's at or above that number the system may not be able to keep up.
For a big load like that you'll want to run off the battery with your own fuse as (to the best of my knowledge) we don't have much in the way of high-power accessory hookups on this bike.
If it drains the battery there's always the kick start.
A battery on the back rack would get it done,I mean how many hours are you gonna use it? That would be about 4 amps.I found a site that said Widder rated their new vest at ~48W on the high end. If I had a lot of idling on my ride, like long periods of riding below 4000 RPM, I'd probably feel a little worried about battery levels dropping and want a voltage meter of some sort on the bike to keep an eye on it. IIRC 4000 RPM is ~10 mph in first and 28 mph in 4th on the stock configuration, and there's a few options for voltage monitoring.
Honda says if you're using something that has that high a current draw, you should be regularly trickle charging the bike to protect the battery so you don't end up with a flat battery, but as MisterB says, there's a kickstart and riding cold until you can charge the bike if you do end up draining the battery, and the kickstart is easy to use.
Most portable battery packs are 2.4A @ 5V, because they're designed for USB. For USB-C that number jumps to 20W. You could potentially use multiple battery packs connected in series but... I don't really recommend that. 4A is quite a lot with respect to a battery pack.A battery on the back rack would get it done,I mean how many hours are you gonna use it? That would be about 4 amps.
I was thinking a lawn mower battery not hooked up to the electrical system on bikeMost portable battery packs are 2.4A @ 5V, because they're designed for USB. For USB-C that number jumps to 20W. You could potentially use multiple battery packs connected in series but... I don't really recommend that. 4A is quite a lot with respect to a battery pack.
IMO it's overcomplicating the issue. Yesterday morning was 20F when I started and 23F when I finished; I rode in wearing some light gloves and the pogies over the hands and my regular winter gear. The only difference I made to my regular gear was instead of wearing my neck buff around my neck, I pulled it over my head into a miniclava to give better neck protection. For my area, where it doesn't really hit these temperatures that often and they're pretty manageable, cold weather is a solvable problem with passive solutions.
View attachment 4785 View attachment 4784 Still had ice on the bike when I got to work. Ignore those two other bikes, they haven't moved in over 3 months. The guy on the right needs a bolt extractor kit to remove one of the bolts on his bike due to crash damage.
View attachment 4786
That seems like a smart way to address this. Why put undue stress on the little bike's electrical system? There is plenty of room in your crate and it is a cheap, reliable solution that will not harm the bike. You already should have a charger or two to keep the battery charged up.I was thinking a lawn mower battery not hooked up to the electrical system on bike