#2425 doing maintenance, probably like an idiot

I'll be adding to this whenever something interesting or new is done on the bike, hopefully remembering to take photos as I go. For new and prospective owners, this will be a reference for what they'll probably have to do themselves. For me and for everyone else, it'll be because my dumb arse forgot what I did & how to do it, and this way I just have to search for things that I posted until it becomes muscle memory.

Odometer: ~250 mi
On order: Sprockets F&R (OEM), DID 428 VX chain, Shinko 244 3.0x2.

Auto clutch adjustment
Difficulty: Very easy.
Tools: Flathead screwdriver, 14mm box wrench. (Optional: toothbrush)
Time: 1 min
TL,DR: 14mm to get the locknut loose, all the way to the right (gentle), all the way to the left (gentle), 1/8 turn to the right, tighten locknut.

Normally you'd do this as part of the 600 mi check. Shifting feels a bit iffy, like dirty oil or an out of adjustment clutch. With rain coming in, this was the only one I could get done in time.


#2425Maintenance

339 mi
Update: The "difficult" and occasional missed shifting (particularly in 4th) seems to be mostly resolved by adjusting the clutch. The oil is probably still pretty dirty and I suspect it is still going through a generic level of getting all the crud out of there.

Orders: Still can't find the gasket kits for the clutch and right side crankcase gasket cover. Getting annoyed to the point I might just go to honda and order 2-3 of them since it might actually take until the first oil change for them to arrive. The Shinko 244's, 13T sprocket and DID chain have all arrived. The 14T OEM and 39T OEM are still on backorder.

Fuel numbers:
Engine is now out of the break in period. I doubt I was that gentle on it to really consider it to be gently broken in, and I've now filled her up 3 times. Keep in mind that small number data in data science is considered untrustworthy until more observations can be made. I'm a data guy, so once I have a few more readouts I'll do something a little more fancy. This should be on the bad end of the numbers side. I'm fat so the bike is running near GVWR. City riding. Lots of hills. Everything working against me.

Cumulative statistics:
339 mi; 3.123 gal; 109 mpg.
Median Distance to Empty (DTE) based on a full tank of fuel is 152.5 mi, Average DTE 151.6 mi (n=3)

Last fill was 3/27. 1.105 gal @ $5.19/gal, $5.74.

SneakyDingo said:

Orders: Still can't find the gasket kits for the clutch and right side crankcase gasket cover. Getting annoyed to the point I might just go to honda and order 2-3 of them since it might actually take until the first oil change for them to arrive. The Shinko 244's, 13T sprocket and DID chain have all arrived. The 14T OEM and 39T OEM are still on backorder.

Click to expand...

Left and right cover gaskets:
11395-K73-T60 GASKET, L. CRANKCASE COVER
11394-K73-T60 GASKET, R. CRANKCASE COVER

Oil spinner filter gasket:
15439-KWW-741 GASKET, OIL FILTER COVER

Rear brake lever split pin (you might replace this if you disconnect it to get the brake pedal out of the way to pull the right side crankcase cover off)
94201-20120 PIN, SPLIT, 2.0X12

RevZilla carries these, PartZilla also carries all of them but you may want to check with their support before ordering to get an ETA because they often have parts on backorder and don't make that clear when ordering

Also worth mentioning that Honda's maintenance schedule lists the first check of the Engine Oil Strainer Screen and Engine Oil Centrifugal Filter at 8,000 mi / 12,800 km so unless you've got uniquely dirty or foul circumstances, it's not necessary with the first oil change.

While I am super duper thankful that I now have part numbers, I should have clarified: I can physically find the numbers, but the parts have been out of stock for weeks now.

EDIT: Also to clarify, 11394 and 15439 were what I was looking for. I strongly suspect I'll need to do those before things that require the gasket kits or other gaskets.

Well done. This will be a good resource.

On order: ordered upgraded rear suspension. Went with the @m in sc Treatland option in black over the @G19Tony YSS option. What really sold it was the statement of: "got em on, like they were made for bike." I know a decent chunk about engines but f all about suspension, other than my fat arse could benefit from upgrading it and that I like simple installs.
Gaskets are back in stock apparently. Order placed for the filter gasket. Also because I was trying to get free shipping a pinlock insert, but apparently I still have to pay for shipping.

Order received: Order received for the R Crankcase gasket, they'll go in the box of goodies. No order placed for the split pin, because it's kind of ridiculous to pay for a single split pin if I can get an equivalent in bulk from the hardware store.

Still on backorder: OEM sprockets. April 29 is the expected date, indicating current backorder time is about 8 weeks.

I never remember buying an OEM split pin on any of my previous motorcycles, it makes sense that they come in OEM but I never actually knew that until this bike. Then again, I never knew the rear brake reservoir was its own thing until this bike either.

I could do all at once but that seems like it'd cause trouble with dialing in everything. Current plan is to swap out the following as groups:

• Tires + Tubes for Shinko 244's
• Chain & relevant sprockets; front suspension preload bolts
• Rear suspension

Part of what spurred me to order this now over sometime in the distant future was the idea of doing WABDR this summer. It's rated as one of the easier BDRs, it's "nearby" and I've promised myself time to decompress over this coming summer.

EDIT: Sh*t f*ck just did my taxes no more parts for me for a while

On order: Not quite on order, but purchased in person. There were some things that were missing from my toolkit that I had been waiting on and decided in the end to just buy it in person. Co2 cartridges, a Lezyne Co2 screw on inflator, a mini pump, a glueless patch kit and a glue patch kit (always get one of each, the patch cement dries out).

Order received: Treatland Rear Suspension arrived earlier today.

Still on backorder: OEM Sprockets and spinner gasket.

Pending work: Oil change time + goldplug swap. I reckon the end of this tank will be just shy of the 600 mi mark. Got everything I need for this ready to go except the drip pan. I actually don't have anywhere to put used oil yet, so I might have to chat with my neighbor to see if the first change can go with his oil. I'm sure it'll be fine...

Also all the electrical wiring for the OPMID, the USB and the SAE connectors.

I also had enough readouts to start doing my dashboard for maintenance. I've done something like this before, where it was useful for tracking when I was approaching or overdue on maintenance. It automatically updates whenever I fill up a new tank. I'm pretty tired right now since my dog was sick the last few days and I had to get up every hour last night to let her out, but you can see a bit of a preview using the link in my signature.

Odometer: 584 mi
On order: JTF 273.13 (May), spinner gasket (April 21'ish)
To purchase: Battery tender kit, USB kit.
Order received: OEM Sprockets.

600 mile Oil Change
Owner's manual specification: Oil change, automatic clutch inspection. (pg 39-40 of the owner's manual)
Parts needed: replacement crush washer (Honda OEM part number 90407-259-000), Gold Plug MP-01 (optional)
Tools needed: 17mm socket, 17mm wrench (optional), oil funnel (optional?), nitrile gloves (both hands), paper towels.
How the bike felt: Shifting did not feel great. It's been struggling to get into gear quite a bit lately.

I'd just finished watching @calobster's video here and noted that if I went for a nice, long ride today, I'd be right up at the oil change interval. He saved me looking it up - 17mm wrench, the one I keep in the Big Bucket of Motorcycle as opposed to the on-the-bike toolkit. After all, if you're not adventuring, why are you doing roadside oil changes?

There was a user that unscrewed the wrong bolt. I'm pretty sure there's only one 17mm bolt down there that points directly down. The other bolts are different sizes. So as long as you say, "I will bring a 17mm and ONLY a 17mm" you should be ok.

Took the bike for a warm up ride to get the oil nice and warm. 60 miles? 90 miles? It's hard to say, but I was very sure that the oil was warm when I got home a few hours later. I let the bike sit for about 5 minutes while I gathered my tools and fought off an enthusiastic dog who was happy to see me.

I found the most level ground I could (which wasn't super level) and used my 17mm socket to loosen the oil plug. Got it most of the way out, then used the wrench to do the last little bit. To be honest, I'd just do that by hand next time. It's always a bit iffy if the oil will be so hot it will scald my hand, or only so hot to be an inconvenience, and this was definitely the latter. I decided to risk it and used a super flimsy plastic lid from... idk, like a cupcake container or something. I had an OJ bottle on hand just in case, but I wanted to use that for the waste oil.

Opened up the refill plug and unscrewed the dipstick, letting it drain for a bit and draw in air that way, before tossing the old crush washer and putting the gold plug and new crush washer in. Tightened it hand tight, then finished it off with the socket, and called it good.

The owner's manual on page 100 states for an oil change not including disassembly you can expect to refill it ~0.7L. By now it was dark, and this bottle of oil has no window to see how much you've poured out, so I grabbed my kitchen scales. Oil density is slightly less than water (7.61 lb per gal vs. 8.3 lb per gal), so if I'm weighing out how much oil I put in on scales that are calibrated for water, it should read ~640mL when it's approaching the 700 mL of oil manual stated value. I eventually added ~800 mL of oil by weight to bring it near the top mark, being mindful that 1) this is a Trail 125 so it's probably ok with burning a little oil and not being super accurate with the oil level, and 2) the ground I was on was not quite level so I shouldn't fill it all the way to the top mark.

Quick test ride later, and the bike feels good and seems to be fine. Shifting is noticeably easier to do. This has been pretty common for all of my bikes; when the oil gets dirty and is around 80-85% of the service interval, it gets harder to shift.

Things I'd do differently next time:
1. Tie up the dog. She kept trying to drop her ball in the oil that drained out of the bike.
2. Lay out some cardboard under the bike. It'll catch those drips that got away.
3. Do it in the daylight. It was harder to do at night since I couldn't see what I was doing.
4. Find some level ground to do this. This ground was not level. I think the front of my house is more level, so I'll probably do it there next time.

And of course, since I did a reasonably nice ride before my first oil change, I took a photo to remember this ride.



#2425Maintenance

Almost everything is here!!

On order:

• I received word that the OPMID cluster can get scratched and the protective covers were out of stock for freakin' forever. Well, they just came back in stock, so I ordered some new ones. Ironically, at the time of placing the order for the new ones I didn't realize they were coming from Australia, and I could have just shipped them to my parent's place and saved a ton on time and handling.
• I placed an order for some SAE cabling, which is the last of the things I want to do for the bike, very similar to the Apache 4800 case mod that someone else did. Will need to run to the store to get some additional bolts for the battery connections as I'm told the normal ones are too short.

Received: Everything else.

Other: I'll be going back to Australia for a bit and will likely be on forum hiatus for a month. After this, I'll be doing all the upgrades to the bike and after some settling in and adjustment, see how viable it is to take it on either mini or big adventures.

Also this little photo of my baby is part of the ADVRider inmate photos of the week.

Hmmm, word is the Posties are all over in Australia, maybe you could rent one for cheap while you're there and have some fun?
Enjoy, either way!

My Opmid arrived yesterday and now I'm thinking about that plastic face and worried it's gonna look like a foggy car headlight! Wonder how it reacts to UV?
I'll keep my paws off it so scratches shouldn't be an issue but if it slowly turns yellow that would be lame.
Worst-case maybe possible to replace lens? Oh well, time will tell.

That's a pretty good idea, but I'll have to see what Dad has first. He has a '04 Road King, the question is if he has anything else. If he has the '78 model 50, it'll run, but it'll need new tires and brakes at the very least, and it'll feel very familiar in terms of top speed .

Yah, it's hard to say what will happen. I don't think there's anything I can do about UV, but there is something I can do about the lens. I did order an extra pack (of 3 covers) because I figured it's a common mod and a hard to get item, so if sharing is caring I can always mail out 2 OPMID covers to two other people for the cost of shipping + pro-rated cost of the covers themselves. I'll determine if that's a good idea after installing the cover; if it's no good, I'll save everyone else the money.

Thanks for posting part numbers and other info.
I copy/paste all of it into my Trail 125 info note.

Arrived yesterday: Box of goodies arrived from Amazon and Harbor Freight. I also picked up some longer bolts from Home Depot for the battery terminals.

A surprisingly cheap project overall to electrically pimp my ride; I have some added stuff on my list due to my specific things I want to attempt, but the total cost right now is $160 after tax for the positaps, usb, SAE cables, SAE accessories, and longer bolts for the battery terminals. I know what I'm doing for most of this; I have some thoughts on the rotopax attachment on the top that need to be answered before I start drilling holes.

This rounds out all the stuff I needed before I started to mod the bike electrically.

EDIT 5/13: I'll be modifying my plans slightly for this case. I'll definitely be adding some holes on the top, in the pattern of the Rotopax mount, and then taking an instacrate and drilling the same pattern in the bottom of that.

Odometer: 1115 mi
Task: Swap out the seat
Tools: 10mm socket
Total time: 8 minutes

Swapped in the Diablo seat. I realized after receiving it that it's just two bolts, so after checking my chain, realized I could do it really quickly before I left on an errand. The trickiest part was the seat threads have two washers in there as well. So the order for reassembly is:

1. Seat
2. Washer with metal ring facing towards the seat
3. Bracket holding it to the bike
4. Washer with metal ring facing towards the nut
5. Nut

Then, because I wanted to make sure that it was a solid install, I added my test subject.



The seat sits lower than the previous seat, which would make you think you hit your arse on the cross bar more. However because the seat curves up more at the back, it has a tendency to push you forward a little. All of this gives a slightly more "cramped" feeling immediately after getting on the bike that goes away after about 5-10 minutes of riding. Seat feels firm, but so far feels more comfortable than the stock seat by quite a bit. Which is probably not that hard, Honda worked really hard into making the seat uncomfortable.

On to the next modification now!

#2425Maintenance

(note: if using this as a reference, see next post)

Odometer: 1148 mi
Task: Swap out the suspension
Reference post: @m in sc 's post here.
Tools:

• JIS screwdriver #1
• 5mm Hex key
• Socket extender or a 12mm spanner
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm spanner
• 10-60 Nm torque wrench
• (optional) Lock ring tool (Suspension specific tool)
• (optional) Sharpie

Total time: 1h30m (probably less if you don't have to go ask your neighbors for tools)
Number of swear words: 0
Reference videos: Removing the exhaust
2021 CT125 Manual references:

• Air cleaner garnish, 3-6
• Rear Carrier, 3-17
• Exhaust Pipe/Muffler, 3-19
• Rear Suspension, 3-28

OEM parts list links:

• Air Cleaner
• Body panels
• Muffler
• Main pipe cover

Oh boy. If there's one piece of advice I have for this, it's loosen any adjusting components on your suspension BEFORE you start. Running around once the bike is disassembled is much more difficult. Did I do that? No, of course not.

Swapping out the suspension is consists of 4 separate tasks to get to the actual suspension.

1. Left side: Remove the Air Cleaner Duct Case aka the snorkle.
2. Right side: Remove the body panel covering the rear brake fluid reservoir.
3. Right side: Remove the skid pan.
4. Right side: Remove the exhaust.
5. Swap the suspension

Remove the Air Cleaner Duct case ("snorkle"):
Parts: 2x SCREW, SPECIAL (5X14) P/N 90114-KPB-750
Tools: 5mm Hex key

1. One bolt on the underside of the air cleaner duct case at the rear
2. One bolt on the front of the air cleaner duct case.
3. Pull outwards to release from tabs.
4. Remove the Air Cleaner Duct case from the Air Cleaner Garnish Cover (the thing that covers the air filter). No need to unbolt anything, just pull it clear.
5. A smart man would place this on something soft.

Remove the skid pan
Parts: 4x Bolt, Flange (6X12) P/N 95701-06012-00
Tools: 5mm Hex key

1. Undo all 4 bolts. It'll be easiest if you loosen them all first and then remove them. Pull it down and forward, there are two tabs that hold the back of the plate to the bike.

Remove the body panel covering the rear brake fluid reservoir (below the muffler)
Parts: 1x Push pin P/N 90116-SP0-003, 1x Pan Head Screw P/N 90132-MJE-D40
Tools: JIS #1 Screwdriver (can use a Philips if you don't have one of those)

1. Remove Pan head head screw to the rear.
2. Push pin on under side.
3. Pull out and down. I found this was a bit stiff when I was removing it.
4. When "storing" it, place it shiny side up so you don't get scratches.

Remove the exhaust
Parts: Flange nut, 8mm P/N 90301-KWB-600, 8mm cap nut P/N 90443-KTM-970
Tools: 12mm socket

1. Remove the lower 8mm flange bolt (near rear brake fluid reservoir, below the muffler)
2. Loosen the upper 8mm cap nut, but do not remove it yet.
3. Remove two 8mm flange nuts near the cylinder. One of them will either need to use a socket extender or a ring spanner.
4. Slide down component that flange nuts integrated with so it's hanging freely.
5. Remove upper 8mm cap nut from the upper exhaust mount.
6. Pull the exhaust down from the cylinder so it's loose, unhook the top of the exhaust, and feed it through the bars until it comes free.

Reinstallation note: 8mm Flange nuts for the cylinder, as well as the upper and lower bolts near the back of the bike all use 27 Nm torque.

Installing the new suspension
Tools needed: 17mm socket (upper left side), 19mm spanner (upper right side), 14mm socket (both sides, lower bolt)
Parts:

• 19mm spanner. BOLT, ADAPTER (8MM) P/N 90165-K2E-T00
• 17mm socket. NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM) (CAP) P/N 90345-MFR-670
• 14mm socket. NUT, FLANGE CAP (10MM) P/N 90201-HA0-000

1. Put the bike on the center stand to do this if it's not already on the stand.
2. Remove one at a time. I started on the right. It was at this moment I realized the suspension came too short from the shop, and I didn't have a lock ring tool. Thankfully I have excellent neighbors.
3. I had to push out the old bushings from my old suspension into the new suspension as the ones that came with the suspension were too small. Fairly easy to do but required strong thumbs.
4. Probably the hardest bit of this was getting the lock ring loose; I ended up putting a long screwdriver through the bushing portion and using that for leverage while working the lock ring tool.
5. Once I did that and got the lower lock ring loose, I rotated the lower portion of the suspension to adjust the length until it slid on easily. Then I replaced the suspension on the other side using a similar approach.
6. The upper bolts have washers either side of the suspension, but the lower bolts only have a washer on the side facing the nut.

Reinstallation note: Upper bolts to 44 Nm, Lower bolts to 29 Nm.

• Optional: sharpie the tightened bits to mark that you've done them.

Reinstalling everything:
Effectively the reverse of removing them. I mounted the exhaust, then took it for a spin to make sure everything was good before I put the skid plate and snorkel back on. It's... probably safe to ride without the muffler, but I didn't want to push my luck too much.



#2425Maintenance

When I was pulling apart the bike to do the suspension last, I found the start of some corrosion on the lower suspension mount, specifically being worse on the right side which was... weird considering I only bought the bike in February.


This seems like an "oversight" from Honda to not add anything here, so I consulted my neighbor and he suggested using something like Never-Seez on the location after cleaning it up with some emery cloth. "This should be easy, I'll just follow my instructions from last time."

Well, in my haste, the very, very, VERY first thing I did after popping out the push pin and the panhead screw was to snap the plastic bit this part of the body touches (right side cover over rear brake fluid reservoir). Thankfully it doesn't seem to actually do anything important, but... dammit. Definitely maintaining like an idiot this time. The rest went smoothly though.

Odometer: 1311 mi
Task:

• OPMID install
• USB install
• SAE connector to battery install

Tools:

• JIS #1 screwdriver
• 5mm hex key
• 10mm socket
• Electrical tape
• Zip ties

• OPMID instrumentation​
• OPMID screen protector​

• SAE cable - came with the wrong terminals on the end. I replaced them with Gardner Bender 12-10 Ring Terminals (8-10 STUD) using wire strippers plus some heat shrink tubing.​
• The cables were also on the shorter side of what I would have liked. Had they been 30" or longer instead of the 2 ft cables I had, it would have been much easier to route them effectively.​

• Wire strippers​
• Positap connectors - 2x blue​
• Dremel tool with a grinding wheel and round rasp​

Videos:
Best of the Backroads - Installing a USB and battery tender cable
OPMID - Honda Trail 125 - How to install on a Trail 125

Common parts:
RIVET, PUSH (6MM) - P/N 90116-K0A-E11

Total time: ~6h

---

These three were done at the same time since they require pulling most of the panels off to do the necessary work. Since this was a big job, it was very hot where I was working, and there are two good videos that cover 99% of this the photos and notes will be a little more sparse and utilizing more of the OEM fiche diagrams.



Remove LID, BATTERY *R354* (GLOWING RED) (P/N 64460-K2E-T00ZB)
1. Push pin on the back left, 5mm hex key in the middle.
2. The back right of the panel has a small hook on it. Lift up from the left side, gently work things loose and then unhook it from the right rear.

Remove GARNISH SET, AIR CLEANER *R354* (WL) (GLOWING RED) (P/N 83650-K2E-A00ZA)
1. Push pin on the back top, 5mm on front middle. If you don't remove the battery cover first, take care when releasing the top left side of the panel, there's an easy to snap tab there.

Remove COVER SET, L. MAIN PIPE SIDE (TYPE1) (WL) (P/N 81140-K2E-T00ZC)
1. 5mm bolt lower front left, 5mm bolt center top, push pin center near the battery, 10mm socket for the flange bolt (P/N 95701-06012-00)
Reassembly note: The 5mm bolt on the lower front left is P/N 90132-KPP-T00, while the 5mm bolt in the center top is P/N 90132-MJE-D40 - these are different bolts, one has a longer shaft (longer shaft goes in to the top).

Remove COVER, MAIN PIPE (LOWER) (P/N 64310-K2E-T00)
1. 4x Push pins

Remove COVER (LOWER) *NHA40M* (MAT KRYPTON SILVER METALLIC) (P/N 64150-K2E-T00ZA) aka the bash plate.
1. 4x 5mm hex
Note: This wasn't strictly necessary, but it made accessing the oil temperature sensor easier and isn't very difficult to do.

Remove the front most screw from the front right body panel COVER SET, R. MAIN PIPE SIDE (TYPE1) (WL) (P/N 81130-K2E-T00ZC)
1. 5mm hex key.
Note: This wasn't strictly necessary, but it made verifying the OPMID tacho spade connector was securely pushed in much easier.

At this point, the main body covers are off, except the right side.

Remove RIM, HEADLIGHT (P/N 33101-K2E-T01) and HEADLIGHT UNIT (P/N 33110-K0F-T02)
1. This is part of the USB install but also used for the OPMID install. In the USB install video, the installer almost drops the headlight unit. Because of this, I taped it with some painter's tape first on the upper surface just in case, so if it did pop free it would just dangle from the tape.
2. Unscrew 2x screws on the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions on the headlight. (P/N 91509-GE2-760) - JIS screwdriver
3. Release the headlight unit and unclip the plug at the back.

---

USB install: Follow the instructions from the video: Best of the Backroads - Installing a USB and battery tender cable
I ended up using a manual rasp because I only have a sanding wheel, and that sanding wheel attachment was going to die really fast on the soft aluminum mount. So I rasped it down most of the way, and then used the sanding wheel to clean it up to a nice finished surface. Of course, I still scratched up the aluminum mount in the process for the 10s I was using the dremel tool didn't I?

• Positap the black and yellow cable to the main headlight to your positive USB
• Positap the green cable to one of the blinkers to your negative USB.

Note: If doing the OPMID install, don't reassemble it yet, install the OPMID speedometer first, THEN reinstall the headlight.

---

OPMID install: Follow the instructions from OPMID - Honda Trail 125 - How to install on a Trail 125

-- WARNING --
BEFORE YOU START: record your odometer reading.

I also bought some OPMID screen protectors and installed them at the same time, because "right out of the box" is the cleanest this screen will ever be.

1. Remove the two screws holding the headlight unit to the left and right headlight brackets. (JIS screwdriver)
2. Inside there is a zip tie thing that's not exactly a zip tie holding all the cables bunched together. Check that your OPMID kit has a replacement for this before you cut it. Alternatively if you're creative with a knife, you can reuse it.
3. You can pass the screwdriver through the back of the headlight housing to access the screws on the instrumentation.
4. When installing the OPMID multimeter, the original speedometer used two washers on the left and right screws. The OPMID does not use those washers.
5. I couldn't reach the clip that holds the lowest point of the oil sensor cable without dropping the skidplate the first time. It's possible to reach it without doing that, but it's much easier to do it with the skidplate off.

It took me the longest time to figure out how to access the 1.4 menu for the odometer, etc. Ends up when you hold the A and B buttons together, if you hold them for 3s it does an adjust, and if you hold them for 6 seconds it enters the "bigger adjustment" mode (it will say ADJ at first, then FULL after 6s).

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SAE cable install
I just could not get the right screws to do the battery work needed, so settled for a single SAE battery tender cable running backwards and reused the original screws. Due to the heat, I decided to run the quicker option of up under the seat instead of underneath the air box, which allows me to easily remove it if I don't like it for any reason..

1. JIS screwdriver for the battery terminals.
2. Redid the ring wire connectors to the correct size using my wire strippers, then installed it.

Because the fuel tank itself is exposed, there's no real way to hide the cable coming up from the battery to where the seat is. The best you can do is run it up the back and underside, which required a lot more work than I was willing to do in the moment. With a longer cable than the one I had it might be possible to follow the airbox up and pop it out near the snorkel which would be my second choice.

A single push pin on the front left of the gas tank area needed to be popped to work the cable under the body panel. The SAE fuse box sits in a little gap that's not quite big enough for sliding it in discretely; if you elect not to use a fused connection you will trade this problem for a different kind of problem. This is a less than ideal install location, but is easy to iterate on later.

---

End result:


Reference diagrams attached for the parts that I was generally fiddling with.

#2425Maintenance

Thanks Sneaky for posting these, sure is going to make this easier on the next guy.

Is the screen protector a flat film? Wondering if it's something that could just be cut from some protective stock material.

3m film protectant works on about everything. I’ve converted 3 mountain bike frames and forks, easy to apply wet and can cut it to any shape. Heart gun allows it to make the curves.