ByteOfTheCherry
New member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2021
- Messages
- 17
How is it running? Do you think the EFIE mod is necessary on top of the larger injector to get it near the proper air fuel ratio?
Welcome to the Honda Trail 125 Forum! We are an enthusiast forum for the Trail 125, Hunter Cub, CT125 or whatever it's called in your country. Feel free to join up and help us build an information resources for this motorcycle. Register a free account today to become a member. Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
How is it running? Do you think the EFIE mod is necessary on top of the larger injector to get it near the proper air fuel ratio?
Any chance that you took pics of your EFI connections, that's where I'm unsure...the webike picture of the Takegawa kit does not clearly illustrate the cable end of the unit.Thinking about it why did you not choose a 170/180 kit with the 'mild ' cam...no substitute for 'cubes'...???
Jeeezzz...!!!...I'll wait for a plug 'n' playTakegawa does sell a 143cc kit with their FI-CON TYPE-E fuel controller which works with the CT125 ECU (at least the JP one, you could be the lucky early adopter to confirm whether or not there's any differences there). It is not plug-and-play, requires tapping wires to the ECU, instructions are in Japanese.
I think I bought the last 143 Takegawa cylinder/piston kit from webike..I too have access to a machine shop so can make it fit, waiting for a 'mild' E15 cam and the plug 'n' play Efi which is scheduled for Jan 2022. I'm U.K. Based so bought a Thai CT125 Grey import as Honda won't do officially into Europe.M in SC, Wondering if you have an update for your 143 BBK install? I'm thinking about doing this same mod. Looks like both Webbike and Hard Racing have de-listed the Takegawa 143 kits for the CT125? They may have been seeing many of the same issues you initially experienced. There is a local machine shop that can hone the cylinder for me so I'm not too concerned with this slight change as long as everything else seems to be fine. Also, do you have a link to the EFIE module you installed?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm considering the bigger OEM Honda cylinder with (at least now) the Yuminashi piston. I'm more interested in lower end power as I'll be riding mostly off road. I live in Utah and this bike sits in Moab. (I hope you may be familiar with Moab, UT). Although I will be taking it to Death Valley for a trip mid January. Hoping to get the mods completed prior to this trip. Which cam would you recommend for this purpose? Also I'll probably put on a Yosh full exhaust. The BBK, cam and exhaust should provide a bit more umph without compromising the longevity of the engine.the 143 is fine. TBH, i didnt care for the lack of oil holes in the piston, so added some to the top of the skirt of the second one, just 3 1.5 mm holes about 4mm under the oil ring land. it was 'ok', so on a lark i bought a yuminashi 143 kit because it was DIRT cheap, and the piston is much better quality, at least in design, so now that's in there. runs really well, still gets over 96 mpg. However, i did swap the cam back to a 1st gen grom cam, which is advanced a bit on timing, and less duration, so it has better down low performance. I'll probably put in a takegawa low end cam down the road.
in the middle of all that, I did play with a drow sports high compression 125cc piston on use with a spare stock msx/grom cyl i had, and that performed really well also.
Yeah, i like to tinker a bit.
below are pics of the 2 brands of piston. Im by no means a big yuminashi fan, but they def did better on this one then takegawa.
Thanks again for the reply. So did you use the EFIE unit on your bike?thats the exact setup I have. its on this site as well. as far as the cam I'm not 100% sure as I haven't tried a low end one yet.
was back in July:
I made a new head-pipe. its also a larger diameter. (2mm or so).
cut fitting off stock head pipe, opened up on lathe, welded onto new tube:
below pic is just tacked together so i could test fit.
however, you 'could' cut the original cat open, take the mesh out and reweld it if you want to be sneaky about it. Its hard to see in the pics, but i also eliminated one of the 90 degree bends under the motor, and the long run up under the stock pipe where the cat was, is to help with scavenging.
I also removed the inside of the final spark arrestor tube in the cap. just took endcap off, cut the pipe off that poked into last chamber, deburred the edge, and put the cap back on. looks stock, still quiet, def flows better.