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Honda Trail 125 Forum

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Got it back together.

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
I had a timing chain sprocket center tab snap off. I replaced it,added a 238 cam from Yuminashi,also a 143 cc Yuminashi big bore kit.Replaced rocker arms and bearings out of caution ,due to over revving bike downhill with a 13 tooth front sprocket that probably caused failure. Or I might have put the exhaust rocker arm in the intake by mistake.( they looked the same,but they aint)Put the new cam in before big bore install.Made it about 20 miles before it died. Put about 15 miles on it today with the 14 tooth front sprocket back on. Will change oil in am,ride some more. Thought I killed it again,but my big foot had it between 3rd and 4th, Wheww! Already upgraded exhaust,intake,and fuel injector.I will probably goe back to stock tire size in the Shinko 241s and buy three,two for rear and one for front,as that is probably how they will wear.
 

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
I might have broke the timing chain sprocket tab when I put on the new cam the first time. Did not have it lined up with slot in cam,and forced it by tightening it. It pays to take a break every hour or so.
 

m in sc

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
2,487
Location
Rockhill, SC
that'll do it. saw that fairly regular when the groms 1st came out. glad you got it sorted.
 

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
Put about 56 miles on it so far,changed oil at 16 miles with gunk on magnetic plug. I now have a MOTORCYCLE! It wasn't even safe to ride on trail,let alone roads.It actually feels like
I am on a motorcycle.
Fuck the warranty,DO IT! DO IT NOW! is my advice to forum members. Yuminashi recommends using 20/50 W oil. First oil was 10W40 conventional motorcycle,second was 20/50 conventional.
Will change it again at 150 miles. will use synthetic after 300 plus. Could really feel it when the ECU figured it out.
 

m in sc

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
2,487
Location
Rockhill, SC
yup. its right about 50-60 miles before it dials in where its safe. 300v is a solid choice.
 

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
What was the total all in cost, without the hiccup?
exhaust around 300 bucks,150 injector 60 bucks,air filter was about 70 bucks, 143cc big bore kit with cam was 256 bucks delivered. I would say 800 bucks with oil changes,another couple hundred for tools. I would have bought a DR 200s if I had a do over. Suzuki stopped making them. I do not think I will ever sell this one. Things are never going to be as good as they were. It is a classic with a cult like following that give you safe passage thru hostile territories. that other bikes would not.
 

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
You could modify the exhaust rather easily,but that thing weighs much more than the one I bought.I took it to a guy that sandblasted the catalytic out of it,as well as opened the back part of it same method. He say's it is opened up now,so I put my moth on it and blew,and I would like to know how much platinum blew out. I mean there was a big cloud of shiny particles that came out. Why sandblasting did'n't remove it I don't know.. He didn't want to change the pipe from head to muffler like I wanted to,as that is what is needed. I could fix the OEM one,but it stills weighs a lot,and this one I got is stainless without all those stupid bends at the head. What I should have said is this is what I wanted and am happy now,but that 3.3 gallon tank and 90 mpg with a carb on the Su zuki is something I will be looking for on classifieds. No kick starter,and drum rear,and 30 lbs heavier was the drawback.When I got the CT I could not handle anything bigger. Major back surgery 2 years ago,and I am just now getting strength back.
 

m in sc

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
2,487
Location
Rockhill, SC
that all sounds about right. until changing the intake runner tube happens, the stock filter is fine so i skipped that part but thats basically what i did to mine. I dont want mine to act like a bigger bike, just be more capable for what it is. the way SLO went does that.

I was tire kicking a KLX300SM at the dealership today though, might pull the trigger.
 

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
I was looking hard at that one also,I was trying to find a set tires to fit it. Why didn't they put a 3 gallon tank on it? I would rather have cast wheels so I could go tubeless. All that talk about not as strong as spoke,I say if I hit something that hard it breaks a non defective wheel, I have most likely killed myself in the process.Tank size and tire selection stopped me. I am another few months from that type purchase. I removed the intake runner tube inside the air box with a knife,otherwise is stock to engine.
 

m in sc

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
2,487
Location
Rockhill, SC
wire wheels sold me. was looking at ktm 390 adventure and was like 'nope' . sm for me, road only, plenty of road tire choices in 17"

If i wanted to go off road more (or at all), id buy a dr650 or an actual dirt bike, because neither of them are it. 2 gallon tank plenty for me as well. they get over 60 mpg. im always going to get off a bike that size at least once in in 2 hours. lol. I have other bikes for distance, that would be for general hooning around.
 

Kritou

Active member
Joined
Mar 15, 2021
Messages
317
I was looking hard at that one also,I was trying to find a set tires to fit it. Why didn't they put a 3 gallon tank on it? I would rather have cast wheels so I could go tubeless. All that talk about not as strong as spoke,I say if I hit something that hard it breaks a non defective wheel, I have most likely killed myself in the process.Tank size and tire selection stopped me. I am another few months from that type purchase. I removed the intake runner tube inside the air box with a knife,otherwise is stock to engine.
You can go tubeless for about $30 and an hour of your time. I did it a couple of months ago and it is working perfectly on my CT. Often termed the “ghetto” method it is widely used in SE Asia and the MTB community. Lots of stuff on You Tube about it
 

SneakyDingo

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
1,567
What is the advantage? Plugging flats if the bead stays intact??
There's a few advantages.
  • If you're in goat head thorn territory you can run sealant and it self seals for minor issues that would otherwise kill a tubed tire. Repeatedly. And annoyingly.
  • You don't have to worry about pinch flatting the tubes.
  • Related to previous point, you can generally go a lot lower in pressure.
  • There are systems that can be installed to prevent bottoming out on the rim that can't be installed on tubed tires.
  • It's usually lighter, sometimes by a lot.
Generally speaking most on-the-road issues with a tubeless setup are resolved with more air, more sealant, and rotating the tire, which vastly simplifies things. Finally, and probably the biggest point to me, it doesn't prevent you from running tubes in the future if you run into an issue. Often the "my tire failed to self-seal" solution is to put a tube in it until you can more closely analyze it.

The biggest downsides are related to sealant more than anything, which isn't strictly needed but is a good idea IMO:
  • You need to keep an eye on your sealant and sealant levels as not only does it leak out, but it also dries out. In practice this isn't that difficult if you check your tire pressure regularly and get to know your bike over time; when there's low or no sealant, tires lose air faster.
  • When you do get a puncture, it can spray sealant EVERYWHERE. I mean, it's like swinging a hose around and seeing what gets wet. Except instead of water that evaporates, you have this compound (my bicycle is latex) that sticks to things and then dries. Not a huge issue, but cleaning it off is just One Extra Thing (tm).
  • It can be really freakin' messy. When I mount tires for my bicycle I do it outside, away from the house, on the opposite side of the yard, because I've seen what happens when you have a sealant explosion. It is INSANELY messy. "Mechanics hate this one trick", because it is messy. Tubeless tires were serviced in the downstairs bike servicing area where I work, not the upstairs, because of the mess.
  • It won't seal large holes. Each sealant system has a recommendation. The ones with glitter can seal larger holes, but make a glittery mess instead of just a normal mess. The solution for larger holes, particularly on the tread, is to boot the tire and install a tube.
  • You need a tire patch kit, not a tube kit (IMO in practice these are easier to use than patching or replacing a tube on a bike like the CT125, since most flats happen on the rear tire and we have a center stand).
  • Sealing the tires properly can be a bit tricky. For MTB's there's even a term for it - 99% of the process is simple, but you want to do a really good job on the Stan's Shake (Stan's being a popular sealant brand, and the shake being part of the process to coat all surfaces on MTB tires). Generally speaking not that much of an issue on motorcycles.
  • You need a tubeless valve stem, and something to remove said valve stem if you have to go back to tubes for any reason (a non-issue on our bikes since we have to do that anyway with most tubes)
  • At a minor level, while not strictly required for a tubeless setup, sealant is super recommended, but it's worth noting it's somewhat hard to dispose of sealant. Sealant disposal is the same as paint, let it dry out and then throw it out. Except this is something that is specifically designed to form a skin quickly and then everything under the skin stays liquid, so it... is kind of a pain in the arse to dry out.
  • Like patching tubes, plugging tires requires skill.
  • Seating the bead again without a compressor is hard.

The benefits far outweigh the downsides. I run tubeless on my bicycle that I use for doing tons of miles.
 

AZ7000'

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2021
Messages
969
Copy, I’ve worked in bike shops, maintain the family fleet with all of our mtb’s being tubeless. Just got the boy 2 new tires because he destroyed the cheap oem tubeless ones running the lifts in UT a couple weeks ago, they did handle telluride and purg fine. Maybe we can agree to disagree on the weight savings, “sometimes by a lot” sealant adds up as does the dried latex…. The percentage of weight savings on a motor bike doesn’t seem to be worth it. A Cush core is an unnecessary weight and expense I just don’t get.

In my head a flat on a 260# bike will most likely break the bead and that will lead to the placing of a tube in the wild so back to square one.
I have slime in my tubes on both trails, the kids dirt bike, we run bib mousses on the 4 dirt bikes.
Thanks for your reply, worth it to you, the benefits do not outweigh the downsides for me!
 

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
Copy, I’ve worked in bike shops, maintain the family fleet with all of our mtb’s being tubeless. Just got the boy 2 new tires because he destroyed the cheap oem tubeless ones running the lifts in UT a couple weeks ago, they did handle telluride and purg fine. Maybe we can agree to disagree on the weight savings, “sometimes by a lot” sealant adds up as does the dried latex…. The percentage of weight savings on a motor bike doesn’t seem to be worth it. A Cush core is an unnecessary weight and expense I just don’t get.

In my head a flat on a 260# bike will most likely break the bead and that will lead to the placing of a tube in the wild so back to square one.
I have slime in my tubes on both trails, the kids dirt bike, we run bib mousses on the 4 dirt bikes.
Thanks for your reply, worth it to you, the benefits do not outweigh the downsides for me!
I watched a couple videos from rider riding Black Bear Pass I do not believe it would hurt the Titanium rods in my back,but the flesh and bones have had enough already.I called AAA on my recent break down,I would say 20 times over a couple hours. Worthless when you are not near a city,or otherwise. I carry Slime and a hand pump,but changing a tire in my garage was hard enough. Wanting ,and dealing with reality is seldom difficult for me as I like to prepare for the inevitable. I hope when it happens,it happens at an opportune time.I think I would not go there BB Pas on this bike even if I was younger. Oh wait, yeah I would.
 

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
I watched a couple videos from rider riding Black Bear Pass I do not believe it would hurt the Titanium rods in my back,but the flesh and bones have had enough already.I called AAA on my recent break down,I would say 20 times over a couple hours. Worthless when you are not near a city,or otherwise. I carry Slime and a hand pump,but changing a tire in my garage was hard enough. Wanting ,and dealing with reality is seldom difficult for me as I like to prepare for the inevitable. I hope when it happens,it happens at an opportune time.I think I would not go there BB Pas on this bike even if I was younger. Oh wait, yeah I would.
Thank you for your thoughts, much appreciated!
 

SLO

Active member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
379
Location
meadowview virginia
There's a few advantages.
  • If you're in goat head thorn territory you can run sealant and it self seals for minor issues that would otherwise kill a tubed tire. Repeatedly. And annoyingly.
  • You don't have to worry about pinch flatting the tubes.
  • Related to previous point, you can generally go a lot lower in pressure.
  • There are systems that can be installed to prevent bottoming out on the rim that can't be installed on tubed tires.
  • It's usually lighter, sometimes by a lot.
Generally speaking most on-the-road issues with a tubeless setup are resolved with more air, more sealant, and rotating the tire, which vastly simplifies things. Finally, and probably the biggest point to me, it doesn't prevent you from running tubes in the future if you run into an issue. Often the "my tire failed to self-seal" solution is to put a tube in it until you can more closely analyze it.

The biggest downsides are related to sealant more than anything, which isn't strictly needed but is a good idea IMO:
  • You need to keep an eye on your sealant and sealant levels as not only does it leak out, but it also dries out. In practice this isn't that difficult if you check your tire pressure regularly and get to know your bike over time; when there's low or no sealant, tires lose air faster.
  • When you do get a puncture, it can spray sealant EVERYWHERE. I mean, it's like swinging a hose around and seeing what gets wet. Except instead of water that evaporates, you have this compound (my bicycle is latex) that sticks to things and then dries. Not a huge issue, but cleaning it off is just One Extra Thing (tm).
  • It can be really freakin' messy. When I mount tires for my bicycle I do it outside, away from the house, on the opposite side of the yard, because I've seen what happens when you have a sealant explosion. It is INSANELY messy. "Mechanics hate this one trick", because it is messy. Tubeless tires were serviced in the downstairs bike servicing area where I work, not the upstairs, because of the mess.
  • It won't seal large holes. Each sealant system has a recommendation. The ones with glitter can seal larger holes, but make a glittery mess instead of just a normal mess. The solution for larger holes, particularly on the tread, is to boot the tire and install a tube.
  • You need a tire patch kit, not a tube kit (IMO in practice these are easier to use than patching or replacing a tube on a bike like the CT125, since most flats happen on the rear tire and we have a center stand).
  • Sealing the tires properly can be a bit tricky. For MTB's there's even a term for it - 99% of the process is simple, but you want to do a really good job on the Stan's Shake (Stan's being a popular sealant brand, and the shake being part of the process to coat all surfaces on MTB tires). Generally speaking not that much of an issue on motorcycles.
  • You need a tubeless valve stem, and something to remove said valve stem if you have to go back to tubes for any reason (a non-issue on our bikes since we have to do that anyway with most tubes)
  • At a minor level, while not strictly required for a tubeless setup, sealant is super recommended, but it's worth noting it's somewhat hard to dispose of sealant. Sealant disposal is the same as paint, let it dry out and then throw it out. Except this is something that is specifically designed to form a skin quickly and then everything under the skin stays liquid, so it... is kind of a pain in the arse to dry out.
  • Like patching tubes, plugging tires requires skill.
  • Seating the bead again without a compressor is hard.

The benefits far outweigh the downsides. I run tubeless on my bicycle that I use for doing tons of miles.
I had a flat on my S-10. I put slime in it and had to put air in for a few days in a row. After driving 10 or 15 miles on road at highway speed it fixed it (months ago ) If does not seal it at first,keep adding air,and keep going,and it will work! If the tire does not move for a while the shit will settle and you will have a dangerous wobble until you ride a few miles to heat it up and spread around ( balance )it.
 

m in sc

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
2,487
Location
Rockhill, SC
or, just put on a spare in the truck..? ? Local shops will charge more to swap a tire with slime in it. I carry plug kits in my cars and certain bikes, but back when i did off road stuff, i ran heavy dity off-road tubes and carried spares. cant say i ever had to use them though.
 
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