Interesting read on oil

[m in sc]

so motors like the ct90, etc, we're capable of supporting double the hp they were produced with, so, therefore, nothing was stressed out. similar to the 1st & second gen suzuki gs motors, the old supra motors, etc. this was done to build brand loyalty thru reliability, and just general engineering pride. this can be a deep rabbit hole to go down, be warned. lol

 

[bryanchurch06]

so motors like the ct90, etc, we're capable of supporting double the hp they were produced with, so, therefore, nothing was stressed out. similar to the 1st & second gen suzuki gs motors, the old supra motors, etc. this was done to build brand loyalty thru reliability, and just general engineering pride. this can be a deep rabbit hole to go down, be warned. lol

Thanks buddy, it's a shame we aren't neighbors, with your mechanical abilities and my complete lack of common sense we could get into all kinds of trouble

 

[SneakyDingo]

I am honestly confused about this, in a new engine with tight tolerance is there no need for the factory break in? Or is this just something that used to matter but no longer?

So things have definitely changed in your many years, and others have chimed in for sure on the newer motors.

Something else to consider with the (generalized advice) of an engine break in is that being careful in the first 600 miles of the bike is kind of like being careful in your first 500 hours of riding. You're still getting used to it, you're still getting a feel for it, etc. and I think that's the real value of the engine break in advice - to take it easy, let anything that goes wrong go wrong in a non-catastrophic way, and then work your way up from there.

I think that a good takeaway is really that there's very little harm in adhering to the engine break in procedure, but there's probably no damage in ignoring it either. I know I intentionally followed it for the first 100 miles, then loosely followed it after that, and it was one less variable that helped me isolate when my automatic clutch adjustment needed doing far sooner than stated in the manual.

 

[Jitsguy78]

First 600 miles on mine was hondaline. Then I switched to amsoil and a magnetic plug. I figure at .7 quarts an oil change I'd just run the most expensive synthetic cuz I'm a believer in synthetic. My 2 Harleys get whatever full synthetic mc oil is the cheapest. No problems with lots of miles.

 

[bryanchurch06]

I've read somewhere that using full synthetic can cause clutch wear, cannot find the article now. Am I remembering this correctly? Oh btw does anyone remember those commercials years ago about that synthetic oil additive that after adding to the engine they would drain all the oil and run it for hours without damage, what was the name of that crap? God those infomercials were everywhere.

 

[dmonkey]

My guess is that they were writing about synthetic oils that are also "energy conserving" or "resource conserving". Those can cause slippage with a wet clutch, resulting in wear. The owner's manual states not to use those, so just check the symbols on your oil bottle against what's in the manual and you should be fine.

That does sound familiar. A friend put something with a name like "super slick" in his Harley years ago and spun a bearing. Best to not try snake oil yourself.

 

[m in sc]

just use motorcycle specific wet clutch compatible oils, synthetic or not, and its fine.

 

[bryanchurch06]

 

[bryanchurch06]

Drain plugs just arrived, big box for 2 little bolts

 

[Cpd419]

Drain plugs just arrived, big box for 2 little bolts

I got the same one