Tips and Tricks for closing right side of crankcase?

[dmonkey]

Had to fight gravity to get it to close with the clutch cam plate in place, the spring behind the three ball bearing plate wanted to fall down when closing the case in the upright position on a center stand. What tips and tricks might you have for this? Seems like you really need to somehow safely lean the bike significantly to the left to close it up without a fuss, which is hard to do since I had to drop the pegs (and thus the side stand) to get enough clearance to slide the case cover off and on.

 

[PegLegRacer]

I ratchet strapped mine to the ceiling of the shop then leaned it almost all the way on its side.
I fought it for an hour or two till I tried that. Then it went together first try.

 

[AZ7000']

Why did you open it??

 

[dmonkey]

Straps or a hoist sound like the way to go. I was working outdoors (shade tree mechanic lol) so ended up locking the front brake with a zip-tie and leaning the bike against some bags of potting soil. Was able to line it up where no weight was on the plastic body panels.

The right crankcase cover needs to be removed for cleaning the engine oil strainer screen and engine oil centrifugal filter every 8k miles. My engine oil was particularly dirty so decided to do it sooner and sure enough both were dirty, the strainer screen was almost entirely coated. Not an uncommon issue around here. Thin air and poor quality mountain town gas result in a lot of carbon issues, and this bike ran rich from the start. I switched to the high speed NGK plug recommended in the manual, CPR7EA-9, after fouling the stock one up in Leadville a while ago, and that's seemed to help a bit.

 

[Dakar Dan]

One trick is to turn your bars all the way to the right, then lean the bike over to the left placing the left handgrip on top of a work stand or milk crate. Let’s the bike lean over as far as it can but just keeps the left foot peg & gear lever off the deck.

 

[m in sc]

when we built my buddy tims 75 RD, the clutch needed to be addressed after we put the top end together, swapping it to a 7 disc setup with stiffer springs. we leaned it over with a strap from the rafter and didn't lose any fluid. made it easy. we had one day to do the build and did topend, chambers, electronic ign, upgrade to 30mm carbs, tuning, (and obviously clutch) in about 7 hours. this was in 2013.

 

[-Nate]

I've only done the older (WAY older ) AutoClutch servicing but I too use a milk crate .

It's critical to not let the shifter touch ANYTHING when the cover is off .

 

[redct125trail]

Had to fight gravity to get it to close with the clutch cam plate in place, the spring behind the three ball bearing plate wanted to fall down when closing the case in the upright position on a center stand. What tips and tricks might you have for this? Seems like you really need to somehow safely lean the bike significantly to the left to close it up without a fuss, which is hard to do since I had to drop the pegs (and thus the side stand) to get enough clearance to slide the case cover off and on.

View attachment 1667

Best picture I've seen all year. When I took the crank case cover off there where 4 parts inside. I could not figure it out where the parts belonged. I knew I wasn't going anywhere. The picture easily shows where the parts go. Someone stated that leaning the bike to its left side can help. I heavily leaned the bike and the cover was on with the first try. You saved me a lot of wasted time dude.