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Tool Kit Megathread

Daytripper

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May 25, 2024
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If you pull the tire completely off and reinstall it with a new or patched tube you can use the zip-tie method to prevent puncturing the tube with spoons.

A somewhat portable setup of a different type of tool you could use is the the Kauritmoto Original Tire Mounting Tool with SuperAxle upgrade, or Baja No Pinch with one of the smaller axle shaft adapters, probably the 12mm one since the stock axle is 12mm.
View attachment 9668

I have the Kauritmoto TMT, bought it to use for changing tires while traveling on a different motorcycle but also optioned it with the "SuperAxle kit" for use on my mini motos. It is much easier to use than spoons alone but it's also heavy. 2 lb 6 oz for the setup equipped for use on the CT wheels.

The Baja No Pinch is apparently a copy of the same tool, but lighter weight and possibly lighter duty. One of my friends carries his Baja No Pinch adventure touring and even used it to change a tube in Baja on his Yamaha WR250. He loves it. You'll find many positive reviews especially from dirt riders, and from folks with sidecars and motorcycle trailers that run tires with stiffer sidewalls that are hard to mount by hand with spoons alone.

Someone on one of the CT125 facebook groups posted about bending their Baja No Pinch trying to mount Shinko SR244 tires on the CT125. Personally I suspect they may have not been working the tire correctly and didn't have the opposite side of the bead in the drop-center of the rim.
Photo from facebook:
View attachment 9669
Great info, thanks! Does anyone know what the axle shaft diameter is on the Trail 125?
 

dmonkey

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It's around 12mm. The 12mm shaft on the Kauritmoto TMT tool fits through the wheel bearings a little tighter than the stock axle itself does, but it's not a problem if the shaft is oiled, and it comes oiled. If you received a tool where the shaft tolerance was off a bit, you could try using some abrasive to knock it down a bit.
 

Daytripper

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It's around 12mm. The 12mm shaft on the Kauritmoto TMT tool fits through the wheel bearings a little tighter than the stock axle itself does, but it's not a problem if the shaft is oiled, and it comes oiled. If you received a tool where the shaft tolerance was off a bit, you could try using some abrasive to knock it down a bit.
This is something I will be investing in once my bank account recovers from the initial Trail purchase! There are a few cheaper alternatives on Amazon, but none seem to have a 12mm shaft. The Baja No Pinch has a "minibike kit" that comes with a 10mm and 12mm but must be bought in addition to their regular setup. It comes with a smaller arm presumably for wheel sizes under 16", which I would never use since the main kit goes down to 16" dia wheel size. Be nice if they would sell just the individual shafts which would drop the price down considerably. But I suppose that isn't how busine$$ works!
 

Daytripper

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It looks like you can buy the base Baja No Pinch tool, and then buy the 12mm axle shaft. You'd still be paying for the 20mm axle shaft that comes with the base kit though, even if you don't want it or plan to use it.
Thanks for those links! I was wondering about that one, whether the 20mm shaft was was interchangeable and this answers the question.. The base tool and buying just the 12mm for $39 sure shaves a lot of the costs off. I have some thinking to do..
 

Daytripper

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It looks like you can buy the base Baja No Pinch tool, and then buy the 12mm axle shaft. You'd still be paying for the 20mm axle shaft that comes with the base kit though, even if you don't want it or plan to use it.
I went for it, the Baja kit and 12mm shaft. I am quite certain I will be using it at some point, whether in my shop here at home or out in some far off wilderness. Thanks for all your help.
 

bryanchurch06

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Nov 4, 2022
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I went for it, the Baja kit and 12mm shaft. I am quite certain I will be using it at some point, whether in my shop here at home or out in some far off wilderness. Thanks for all your help.
Am I correct in thinking you still need spoons to remove the tire? The baja kit is just for putting the tire back on the rim? So you've added weight to your kit by adding a special tool? I've probably changed tires on the 125 at least 12 times especially the rear tire, during my experiments with tubeless conversion. I've found with using ty wraps both to remove and install tire, both tubeless and by ty wrapping the tube inside the tire with just enough valve stem exposed to start the nut and starting the tire at the valve stem location, keeping the bead in the center of rim and a warm day I can install the tire with minimal spooning and no pinching the tube. This has been my experience hopes it helps some. It's also been my experience you need enough ty wraps to hold the beads together, if you are having trouble check to ensure the bead is centered on the rim and completely closed with ty wraps.
 

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dmonkey

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Yes, you are correct. You still need spoons to remove the tire. The "pusher" tools like the TMT and Baja No Pinch are for mounting the tire. A potential advantage over the zip tie method is not needing to entirely remove the tire just to replace the inner tube.
 

bryanchurch06

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Yes, you are correct. You still need spoons to remove the tire. The "pusher" tools like the TMT and Baja No Pinch are for mounting the tire. A potential advantage over the zip tie method is not needing to entirely remove the tire just to replace the inner tube.
Having done it both ways I'm faster using zip ties and remove tire and tube to replace tube, also practically zero chance of damaging tube with spoons as the tube is completely inside tire. To be honest I'm not an expert on tire repair and this method is the result of youtube and self experience. I'm positive there are better ways to do it I've just not been taught them yet, but I'm open to anything that makes it easier because at the best of times it a chore even when everything goes right.
 

Daytripper

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Am I correct in thinking you still need spoons to remove the tire? The baja kit is just for putting the tire back on the rim? So you've added weight to your kit by adding a special tool? I've probably changed tires on the 125 at least 12 times especially the rear tire, during my experiments with tubeless conversion. I've found with using ty wraps both to remove and install tire, both tubeless and by ty wrapping the tube inside the tire with just enough valve stem exposed to start the nut and starting the tire at the valve stem location, keeping the bead in the center of rim and a warm day I can install the tire with minimal spooning and no pinching the tube. This has been my experience hopes it helps some. It's also been my experience you need enough ty wraps to hold the beads together, if you are having trouble check to ensure the bead is centered on the rim and completely closed with ty wraps.
I would like to learn more about the tye wrap method. I also have spoons coming, but I have a fair bit of arthritis in my wrists and during a flair up they don't have much strength in them so the leverage of the Baja I am hopeful will help with that. Also am not too worried about the weight as I am not going to be going to be packing the bike for multi day excursions, but just for a long days ride. Food, extra clothing, perhaps a light weight tent for times when I get stuck out but not loading like some who go for weeks at a time. There will be room for the Baja I think..
 

bryanchurch06

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I would like to learn more about the tye wrap method. I also have spoons coming, but I have a fair bit of arthritis in my wrists and during a flair up they don't have much strength in them so the leverage of the Baja I am hopeful will help with that. Also am not too worried about the weight as I am not going to be going to be packing the bike for multi day excursions, but just for a long days ride. Food, extra clothing, perhaps a light weight tent for times when I get stuck out but not loading like some who go for weeks at a time. There will be room for the Baja I think..
I am not the strongest man at 61 but I will admit to using wrist and hand strength doing the ty wrap method because my hands are sore for a couple days afterwards. I think you can do it with leverage from longer spoons and less strength. My method in a nutshell to remove the tire and tube is, remove wheel, remove valve stem and stem nut completely, break bead completely very easy on ct125, start at direct opposite of valve stem and take 1 11in zip tie and push it under beads and tube by pinching tire to create space, pull zip tie tight but not super tight, move 6in and do another zip tie, I alternate sides installing ties until I am close as possible to valve stem, apply some type of tire lube windex works in a Pinch, go back to opposite side of tire and push the valve stem and beads into channel in center of rim while insert a spoon opposite of valve stem completely under both beads tube should be completely inside tire and not exposed, you should have enough slack in the tire at this point to easily spoon the tire off the rim, after about a 3rd of the tire is off you can easily push the tire off the rim without spoons, be careful with the stem as you work but it's pretty well supported by the pressure of the zip tyed beads, it helps if it's a hot day I've done this in 40 degree and 80 degree weather and the warmer the better. To put the tire and tube back on just zip ty new tire with tube inside and start spooning beside valve stem it helps to get the nut on a few threads as soon as it's thru the hole. Please watch a few videos as well as reading my clumsy attempt to explain. Once again if your having trouble make sure bead is centered, and use lube and just be patient with it, don't be afraid to stop and stare for a few minutes. Good luck and if you need further information let me know.
 

Paleo man

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Nov 8, 2025
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19
Location
Ponca city Oklahoma
I am not the strongest man at 61 but I will admit to using wrist and hand strength doing the ty wrap method because my hands are sore for a couple days afterwards. I think you can do it with leverage from longer spoons and less strength. My method in a nutshell to remove the tire and tube is, remove wheel, remove valve stem and stem nut completely, break bead completely very easy on ct125, start at direct opposite of valve stem and take 1 11in zip tie and push it under beads and tube by pinching tire to create space, pull zip tie tight but not super tight, move 6in and do another zip tie, I alternate sides installing ties until I am close as possible to valve stem, apply some type of tire lube windex works in a Pinch, go back to opposite side of tire and push the valve stem and beads into channel in center of rim while insert a spoon opposite of valve stem completely under both beads tube should be completely inside tire and not exposed, you should have enough slack in the tire at this point to easily spoon the tire off the rim, after about a 3rd of the tire is off you can easily push the tire off the rim without spoons, be careful with the stem as you work but it's pretty well supported by the pressure of the zip tyed beads, it helps if it's a hot day I've done this in 40 degree and 80 degree weather and the warmer the better. To put the tire and tube back on just zip ty new tire with tube inside and start spooning beside valve stem it helps to get the nut on a few threads as soon as it's thru the hole. Please watch a few videos as well as reading my clumsy attempt to explain. Once again if your having trouble make sure bead is centered, and use lube and just be patient with it, don't be afraid to stop and stare for a few minutes. Good luck and if you need further information let me know.
Yes zip ties-I would recommend-if you can find the ones with the metal tongues-in the head of the cable tie-I once had flat on a TW in Colorado 8 miles down trail-no tools to do repair -the zip ties held the rear tire in place till I made it back to tail head for futher repairs-Thomas-betts electrical cable tray ties! Save the day
 
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