Squeaky rear brake?

[Rackbid]

580 miles - 3 months old. The rear brake works fine, but I've developed a pretty loud squeak on the rear brake at low speeds (<5mph or slowing to a stop). Braking seems fine, just squeaks.

Wiping some brake cleaner on the disc made it go away for a very short while. Seems like I have some contamination on the pads, so I was considering pulling them out and scuffing with sandpaper and reinstalling. It LOOKS LIKE there is only one hex bolt holding the pads in the rear. BEFORE I did this, I thought I should ask this community if that is the correct path, or if there is something else I should try first. OR if there are any watch outs when doing this (like a bunch of spring loaded small parts jumping out at me when I remove the bolt and pads...). It looks like service manuals are "out of stock" currently.

 

[dmonkey]

There are at least two different types of squeaks I've encountered. The rear brake pad and rotor glazing which you can address by cleaning them up and scuffing them. The other is a squeak from where the caliper makes contact with the pads - you can regrease it but with exposure to water it will return, so I stopped bothering and now embrace it.
Note that the brake disc and caliper bolts are pre-coated with a locking agent (like threadlocker) and Honda's official stance in the manual is that they're single use. I just re-applied threadlocker and reused them without issue.

 

[m in sc]

probably a pebble embedded in the pad.

 

[mdr]

This maybe a bit late but...

My rear brakes started squealing a few hundred miles in - really annoying. I took the rear pads out and cleaned them and the caliper with brake cleaner. It was fine for a few days and then back to squealing. I then upgraded the pads to EBC pads FA343. They are a great fit but the holes are just a bit too small with thick paint so the pin may need a tap to make it through - or rolled up sandpaper or small file to enlarge the hole in the pads just a hair.

I wouldn't suggest greasing the pads. No manufacturer ever does. Pads are in a dirty place and grease is just going to keep the dirt attached. Plus grease near your pads isn't good practice.

Rear removal is simple five minute job. Flick the dust cap off with a very thin screwdriver (like an electrician's 2.5mm terminal screwdriver - or fingernail). Undo the pin with a size 5 (? - can't remember exactly) hex/allen key and slide out. The pads may drop out, otherwise just lift them out. No springs, nor booby traps waiting. Swap the pads (or just clean them). If the piston is in the way just push it a little to squeeze it in a bit - don't use anything sharp. It shouldn't be a problem with low mileage new ones being swapped. Then reinstall is the reverse. The pin should be tighten to 17 Nm if you're doing it properly - just nice and tight without gorilla mitts would do otherwise. Clean and replace the dust cap.

I've got nearly 3,000 miles on mine as of writing and the squeal has never returned. Maybe it would have gone away in time, or with grease but I'd never personally put grease on the back of a pad - ever. I did try a few days of dragging the back brake to scrub them a bit more (while waiting for the EBC brakes to arrive) when I was slowing down but that didn't change anything. Highly recommend swapping them to the EBC ones.

 

[Rackbid]

Thanks for everyone's advice. I pulled them out this morning and they looked like this below before I rubbed them on Emory cloth on a flat surface about two minutes each. I didn't take a picture after, but it removed the "shininess"and the circular grooves you can see from the disc. I hit them with compressed air and sprayed them with brake cleaner and popped them back in. It was just one 5mm Allen bolt to get them out - very easy. I used my last "bubble" of blue loctite I had in my tube and tightened that bolt in good and snug. A quick ride around the neighborhood and the squeak is gone - at least for now. I'm about to take a ~30 mile ride and I'll let y'all know if it returns.

 

[m in sc]

hm. might want to adjust the pedal down, if they were glazed that might be whats happening.

 

[dmonkey]

Thanks for the tip on the EBC replacement brake pads. I installed them today front and rear, will see if the rear stays squeak free.
The black ones are OEM, gold-ish ones are EBC.

Front: EBC Brakes FA375HH Double-H Series Sintered Disc Brake Pad


Rear: EBC Brakes FA343HH Double-H Series Sintered Disc Brake Pad

 

[cyb3rbyte]

Does anyone know if this same part number will fit the 2023 JA65? Looking to eliminate the squeak on mine as well.

 

[dmonkey]

According to the parts fiche the brake pads have the same part numbers for 2020-2022 JA55 model and 2023 JA65 model, so they should interchange. You may find the EBCs fit a little tight to the pin hanger, if so some emery cloth will loosen up the clearance. Honda recommends replacing the front brake caliper mounting bolt with each use. It would be a good idea to reapply threadlocker to it if you reuse it instead.

 

[MisterB]

If the brake pads are metal impregnated and you don't do heavy stops with them the metal will stay and the pad material will wear away.
The little bits of metal cause squeak.
We use pads on rewinds and unwinds at work and when they start squeaking we'll turn off the fuzz on the lathe.
When my Trail rear brakes start squeaking I just do some heavy braking on the offending brake and it's good for a while. Really just takes one good stop with just the rear to quiet them.
The pads at work are easier than taking ours off, I'll see if I can zoom in and get a pic next time it happens.
For the record: on our machines they're just pads and a rotor, pneumatic pressure adjust.

 

[sieg]

^This. If brakes on any of my vehicles squeak I just drag them real hard for a few hundred feet and they're good and quiet for the day.

 

[cyb3rbyte]

Decided to upgrade to the EBC's just to see how they performed. They act very similar to ceramic pads on a car, where the initial bite isn't as good but after 1 second they start to grab harder as they get warmer. I prefer this setup on my cars so it's something I am used to, and it allows me to be a bit smoother with the Trail as well.

A word to the wise: do not be like me and remove the lower slide pin boot for the rear caliper. You will then have to remove the whole rear wheel / axle setup and caliper to get it back in.