m in sc
Well-known member
So, it was time to pull the clutch cover and clean up the screen, fit the larger oil pump, and see what weird voodoo was going on in there.
in regards to the auto clutch off the shift lever:
1: noticed the stock clutch on this is 1 disc less than a stock grom, which i found.. interesting.
2: that crazy linkage.
so, in regards to that linkage, it of course all fell out. upon reassembly, what i did was i greased up the parts with red axle grease, and stuck it all on there, on the clutch. i also took the adjuster out of the cover and stuck that on as well. it literally sat there, all night, held on w grease. no leaning.
today, when i got back on it, what i did was make sure the pin ont he adjuster plate was aligned rougly where it would go into the cover. in the pic below, this is the location.
I used a very long slim screwdriver, put the tip thru the cover, and applied pressure to the screw to hold it in place, then slid the cover right on, went on 1st time, no parts dropped out. It took some dexterity, and would probably be easier w 2 people, but i managed it myself.
I also fit the new high volume oil pump. the gasket i used is a takegawa one i had for a oil filter type cover for a grom, so the gaskets absolutely will work from or for a monkey or grom, pre 22 for sure. I tac sealed the back side and greased the front (outside) so it can be reused.
i hosed the inside of the motor down with brake clean pretty good last night. (like 2 cans until it was clean) no metal, none, and the screen has some of the fibrous stuff you see in there. the black residue i found i think was clutch material or piston coating from the failed takegawa piston, but otherwise looked really good. let it sit overnight as above to let all the brake clean dry up. (w out the gasket of course).
the spinner had some silty residue, again either clutch material or piston coating or both. also scuffed up the inside of the drum of the auto clutch bell on the crank, was looking pretty.. shiny (glazed) in there.
also, as a side note, but an important one, I also drilled out the oiling meter orifice shown here (see pic below, rh side) to 1.5mm ID vs he 1? or so it is stock. i took the pin out, and did it in my lathe, but you could do it by hand. this is what controls the oil to the top end. since the pump puts out a claimed 40% more volume, this should be just fine. and so far seems to be.
yup. that's all that feeds the top end if you can believe it. IF you go with a bigger pump, id recommend it. did this on the old bike as well but honestly forgot about it until i cracked the cover off on this and saw it.
hope this helps someone. and for sure, you don't have to lay the bike over to do this. (im sure some still will)
in regards to the auto clutch off the shift lever:
1: noticed the stock clutch on this is 1 disc less than a stock grom, which i found.. interesting.
2: that crazy linkage.
so, in regards to that linkage, it of course all fell out. upon reassembly, what i did was i greased up the parts with red axle grease, and stuck it all on there, on the clutch. i also took the adjuster out of the cover and stuck that on as well. it literally sat there, all night, held on w grease. no leaning.
today, when i got back on it, what i did was make sure the pin ont he adjuster plate was aligned rougly where it would go into the cover. in the pic below, this is the location.
I used a very long slim screwdriver, put the tip thru the cover, and applied pressure to the screw to hold it in place, then slid the cover right on, went on 1st time, no parts dropped out. It took some dexterity, and would probably be easier w 2 people, but i managed it myself.
I also fit the new high volume oil pump. the gasket i used is a takegawa one i had for a oil filter type cover for a grom, so the gaskets absolutely will work from or for a monkey or grom, pre 22 for sure. I tac sealed the back side and greased the front (outside) so it can be reused.
i hosed the inside of the motor down with brake clean pretty good last night. (like 2 cans until it was clean) no metal, none, and the screen has some of the fibrous stuff you see in there. the black residue i found i think was clutch material or piston coating from the failed takegawa piston, but otherwise looked really good. let it sit overnight as above to let all the brake clean dry up. (w out the gasket of course).
the spinner had some silty residue, again either clutch material or piston coating or both. also scuffed up the inside of the drum of the auto clutch bell on the crank, was looking pretty.. shiny (glazed) in there.
also, as a side note, but an important one, I also drilled out the oiling meter orifice shown here (see pic below, rh side) to 1.5mm ID vs he 1? or so it is stock. i took the pin out, and did it in my lathe, but you could do it by hand. this is what controls the oil to the top end. since the pump puts out a claimed 40% more volume, this should be just fine. and so far seems to be.
yup. that's all that feeds the top end if you can believe it. IF you go with a bigger pump, id recommend it. did this on the old bike as well but honestly forgot about it until i cracked the cover off on this and saw it.
hope this helps someone. and for sure, you don't have to lay the bike over to do this. (im sure some still will)
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