With heated grips, Barkbusters, Hippo Hands, and knobby tires my Hunter Cub had been doing alright getting me places on most winter days, but there has still been the challenge of ice, and more commonly snow over ice due to the freeze and thaw cycles. These are the times when the bike gets really squirrely trying to pick a side left or right to slide right out from under me. I had spent many cold nights contemplating tire studs as the snow plows drive by, but they're a pain to install and semi-permanent where you're stuck with them in dry conditions once installed.
Inspired by a fellow Hunter Cub rider in the Honda homeland, I decided to give Yutaka snow chains a try.
I saw that Webike sells the item for the Japanese market, but couldn't find it on their global site that ships to the USA so I filled out their part quote form with info from the Japanese item listing. Sure enough they sent me a quote for it. YUTAKA 2.50-17 Snow Chain ¥7,425 JPY (~$63.86 USD). Though it's labelled as being for a 2.5" tire, I knew from the Instagram post that it looks like it fits well on the OE 80/90-17 tire and hoped it would fit my Shinko SR241 2.75-17 even though the knobbies make it a bit wider than the OE tire.
Here is the box:
New chain
Mounting it can be done in minutes but still requires some patience to get everything lined up and snug. This was certainly made easier by having the center stand to lift the rear wheel rather than having to drive onto the chain. I tried to position the drive chain links so they fit between rows of lugs in the tire's block pattern tread. The mechanism for connecting the chain to itself are directional hooks and need to be facing the right way for forward movement of the tire, similar to a master link clip.
Here you can somewhat see the marks in fresh snow from the traction chains across the tire.
Clearances are all okay as long as the chain stays secured.
Road legal!
Some notes and observations for anyone else considering running tire chains:
Inspired by a fellow Hunter Cub rider in the Honda homeland, I decided to give Yutaka snow chains a try.
I saw that Webike sells the item for the Japanese market, but couldn't find it on their global site that ships to the USA so I filled out their part quote form with info from the Japanese item listing. Sure enough they sent me a quote for it. YUTAKA 2.50-17 Snow Chain ¥7,425 JPY (~$63.86 USD). Though it's labelled as being for a 2.5" tire, I knew from the Instagram post that it looks like it fits well on the OE 80/90-17 tire and hoped it would fit my Shinko SR241 2.75-17 even though the knobbies make it a bit wider than the OE tire.
Here is the box:
New chain
Mounting it can be done in minutes but still requires some patience to get everything lined up and snug. This was certainly made easier by having the center stand to lift the rear wheel rather than having to drive onto the chain. I tried to position the drive chain links so they fit between rows of lugs in the tire's block pattern tread. The mechanism for connecting the chain to itself are directional hooks and need to be facing the right way for forward movement of the tire, similar to a master link clip.
Here you can somewhat see the marks in fresh snow from the traction chains across the tire.
Clearances are all okay as long as the chain stays secured.
Road legal!
Some notes and observations for anyone else considering running tire chains:
- Tire chains are dangerous! If something goes wrong (chain comes loose, breaks) you can wreck your bike and yourself, they are to be used with much caution. With how cold it has been when I've used them, I'm in full gear anyway.
- It's a good idea to carry work gloves (good grip and dexterity) for handling the chains so you don't pinch or cut yourself, because after some use they'll be covered in debris, and because they're metal and if it's cold out so are they - without gloves your fingers might have a frigid time trying to install or remove them.
- After install Yutaka recommend riding 50-100 meters and checking the fit again.
- The flat sides of these chains are a nice feature for giving more clearance on the sides of the tire.
- Chains are a consumable wear item just like tires.
- The chains should be regularly inspected for wear, if any of the metal is broken or starts to look worn down it is no longer safe for use.
- Dry rock or pavement are tough on chains and will wear them down quick.
- Because the attachment method for the chains is directional, it's probably best to avoid backing the bike up, or check that it is still securely attached after you do back it up.
- The SNOW417 2.50 chains were the widest I could find for 17" wheels that I could also get shipped to the USA, with 2.25" also being another option (SNOW416) but definitely not suitable for my tires.
- Mizuno make motorcycle tire chains for 2.75-17 but they were unavailable everywhere I could find them listed.
- Chain bands are an option for better securing the chains around the wheel, they pull each side together through the center and rest on the rim between spokes. I tried using zip-ties but they just break.
- These would fit the OE rear tire much better than the Shinko SR241 2.75-17. They do fit a SR241 rear tire with just over 1k miles of wear on it, and would maybe not fit a new one where the knobs are taller. They would fit a Shinko SR241 2.50-17 with much more ease. I don't know if they would fit any of the Shinko SR244 17" options, maybe the 2.50-17 though.
- A chain might fit up front with a raised front fender, but chains work best on drive tires. Having a chain up front on a motorcycle would likely ride like pushing a paddle tire in front and trying to steer with it.
- It does feel like riding with small sand paddles on the rear tire when you're on harder surfaces, but when there's enough soft snow it can be smooth.
- When riding it is important to minimize lean angle, hard acceleration, and hard braking. Only brake when the bike is upright.
- Ride slow. I haven't broken 30 mph with the chains on and have mostly ridden around 10-20 mph depending on the terrain and surroundings.
- In contrast to everything you've ever been taught, the rear brake is the way to go. Try progressive braking with a front tire that doesn't have traction and the front is going to wash out on you, especially going down a hill. The rear brake gives you control when there's a lack of traction.
- The chains are easy enough to take off and put back on (especially after you've had some practice) that it can be reasonable to do so when the terrain you're riding on changes.
- When riding on snow always be cautious of what is not visible under the snow. With light snow I can see when there's rough and bumpy ice under it, but with deeper snow it's a mystery until I'm getting thrown around side to side by it.
- I don't know how long the chains will last, and I don't really intend to find out when their time is near. Ideally I'll replace them or not be using them any longer for the season before they fail.
- Rear grip has been excellent. I've been able to use the rear brake to control speed and even come to a stop while descending a paved road covered in snow and ice. Intentionally skidding the rear definitely bites better in snow than with just the (slightly worn) knobby tire. Trying hard acceleration (which you shouldn't ) it can feel like dumping the clutch on a RWD truck with no weight in the back and getting that bit of rear wheel hop. Best to ride gently instead.
- Some fun is lost, you can't do donuts with the rear chain. Leaning the bike and giving it the beans with the front brake applied will just push the front tire forward.
Last edited: