Farmer Mike
Active member
Well, I passed 600 miles a couple hundred miles back, but the top end has been a little noisy so I decided it was time... valve time. I wasn't in a huge hurry because I changed the oil at 100 miles, and installed a gold plug, which I had since convinced myself was just stupid, the thing has a filter, I'll come back to that.
Valve Adjustment: In - .003, Ex - .008 Nod to @bryanchurch06 for that page in the service manual. I did not find the job too difficult, although I did find it easier to just remove the lower guard for more direct access to the exhaust valve... man Honda should be ashamed of themselves, that thing strikes me as more useless every time I touch it... its destined to be replaced (the lower guard).
The Valve Covers on the 2023 are not the same at all, and are marked on the inside with "IN" and "EX"... additionally the intake cover is directional... so be careful. It has an oil journal in it (I believe that's the correct term), and so it bears a little extra attention, just for kicks make sure it's not clogged, although I would not expect that if you are doing proper maintenance. Post adjustment I had a smile on my face... sounds so much nicer, definitely worth doing or getting it done. Don't just skip it, in my opinion.
I also swapped over to full synthetic oil (Castrol 10/40 - exceeds Honda's specification), will not reopen the oil discussion just saying that's what I did. When I removed the drain plug I was actually shocked at the amount of filings, and crud on the magnet... I was actually taken aback a little... more than I've actually ever seen even on one of my cars/trucks... it was chunky even. That did not give me a warn fuzzy at all honestly, especially given I changed the oil at 100 miles. So more of that opinion stuff... put a magnetic plug in the thing, certainly no regrets on my part at this point. I also did not go back with a Honda Oil filter... went with a K&N #117 cost me a whopping $1.50 more than OEM. I spent a few minutes carefully comparing the two filters... and assuming the K&N filter medium itself is on par with the OEM then it could be a "better" filter... has about twice the number of pleats in it, although they may not be as deep as the OEM, so it's hard to say without doing some destructive analysis if there is actually "more" filter medium or if it's an optical illusion. I played around with the bypass valve spring, didn't have anything to measure it with, but pushing on it with a flush end punch I could tell no difference (admittedly not very scientific). I'm going set the OEM filter side for my next oil change and then do some comparisons, just because. Always curious if the marketing is honest... only way to know is measure it. Yes I know there are likely more important things to spend time on, and I won't be obsessing over it, will make a quick determination, and move on. Destructive analysis is informative.
Well, lunch is over, and it's time to install bar risers on Donkey... he's getting the full spa treatment today! Yes it's raining here, and so I am just kinda tinkering in the garage.
Valve Adjustment: In - .003, Ex - .008 Nod to @bryanchurch06 for that page in the service manual. I did not find the job too difficult, although I did find it easier to just remove the lower guard for more direct access to the exhaust valve... man Honda should be ashamed of themselves, that thing strikes me as more useless every time I touch it... its destined to be replaced (the lower guard).
The Valve Covers on the 2023 are not the same at all, and are marked on the inside with "IN" and "EX"... additionally the intake cover is directional... so be careful. It has an oil journal in it (I believe that's the correct term), and so it bears a little extra attention, just for kicks make sure it's not clogged, although I would not expect that if you are doing proper maintenance. Post adjustment I had a smile on my face... sounds so much nicer, definitely worth doing or getting it done. Don't just skip it, in my opinion.
I also swapped over to full synthetic oil (Castrol 10/40 - exceeds Honda's specification), will not reopen the oil discussion just saying that's what I did. When I removed the drain plug I was actually shocked at the amount of filings, and crud on the magnet... I was actually taken aback a little... more than I've actually ever seen even on one of my cars/trucks... it was chunky even. That did not give me a warn fuzzy at all honestly, especially given I changed the oil at 100 miles. So more of that opinion stuff... put a magnetic plug in the thing, certainly no regrets on my part at this point. I also did not go back with a Honda Oil filter... went with a K&N #117 cost me a whopping $1.50 more than OEM. I spent a few minutes carefully comparing the two filters... and assuming the K&N filter medium itself is on par with the OEM then it could be a "better" filter... has about twice the number of pleats in it, although they may not be as deep as the OEM, so it's hard to say without doing some destructive analysis if there is actually "more" filter medium or if it's an optical illusion. I played around with the bypass valve spring, didn't have anything to measure it with, but pushing on it with a flush end punch I could tell no difference (admittedly not very scientific). I'm going set the OEM filter side for my next oil change and then do some comparisons, just because. Always curious if the marketing is honest... only way to know is measure it. Yes I know there are likely more important things to spend time on, and I won't be obsessing over it, will make a quick determination, and move on. Destructive analysis is informative.
Well, lunch is over, and it's time to install bar risers on Donkey... he's getting the full spa treatment today! Yes it's raining here, and so I am just kinda tinkering in the garage.
When it stops raining I’ll wander out to the garage and try and pound that knowledge into my thick skull.