Brake drag / wheel out of alignment

[Allhatnocattle]

My bike has 260 miles on it. The other day I had Shinko 244 3” tires installed. It caused the fender to rub only on the right side. I rode home from the shop 11 or so miles. Took the fender off until my fender lift comes.

But I’ve noticed that the wheel looks off center to the riders right (I made a separate thread about that). Maybe it’s the wheel out of true. I don’t know. But now I am worried my brakes are dragging making me think the wheel is out of wack.

Symptoms:
-slight metallic noise when riding
- when I let off the throttle the bike slows down considerably. There’s front fork dive more so than I noticed before.
-when I spin the wheel while on the center stand it has a scraping metallic sound and only goes a few rotations before coming to a stop. I have a video but not sure how to post it here.
-brake rotor and caliper are hot to touch after a 2 mile ride.

Any ideas are appreciated! I plan to take it to the local honda dealer asap. I’m no mechanic. New to bikes too.

 

[m in sc]

that's the problem when running tires that are too big. Also, your brake cant drag really. the caliper/pads centers itself. I see this all too often with people trying to run 'tractor tires' on cafe bikes w stock rims. want wider tires? get wider rims. the profile will be correct and they wont bulge out. make sure the spacers on the wheel are installed on the correct side as well.

want to diagnose it? pull the wheel off look for rub marks. on the forks, gaitors, or anything else. If you had a shop do it, have them look at it. .02

 

[dmonkey]

The wheel collars/spacers that sit on each side of the wheel are the same part on both sides, so no risk with mixing them up.

Since you had a shop do the work, best to just have them look at it again.
If you want to troubleshoot further yourself though you could check if the front brake pad drag is consistent drag or if it pulses when spinning the front wheel in the air on the center stand. If it pulses check for a warped rotor. A fork alignment issue could cause brake drag but it's unlikely unless you've got a bent axle because putting the axle through the forks lines them up. Was your front caliper taken off to remove the fender? Again something that would be hard to have misaligned, but taking things apart and putting them back together with more careful intention could be worth the time, or even uncover an issue if you're trying to diagnose it yourself.

 

[Allhatnocattle]

The wheel collars/spacers that sit on each side of the wheel are the same part on both sides, so no risk with mixing them up.

Since you had a shop do the work, best to just have them look at it again.
If you want to troubleshoot further yourself though you could check if the front brake pad drag is consistent drag or if it pulses when spinning the front wheel in the air on the center stand. If it pulses check for a warped rotor. A fork alignment issue could cause brake drag but it's unlikely unless you've got a bent axle because putting the axle through the forks lines them up. Was your front caliper taken off to remove the fender? Again something that would be hard to have misaligned, but taking things apart and putting them back together with more careful intention could be worth the time, or even uncover an issue if you're trying to diagnose it yourself.

The drag seems to be consistent luckily. I am wondering if the resistance I feel when I let off the throttle is simply just the fat heavy tires...

I did not take the caliper off to remove the fender.

I called the shop I had the tires put on at and the owner actually came to my house on his day off (talk about service) and took a look. We took the wheel off again, he took the caliper off and said the brake shouldn't be an issue unless you feel it while riding. I am wondering if all of the noise/drag is simply just the heavy tire. But he agreed it was strange that the tire only rubbed on the right side of the fender. He didn't think it was necessarily an issue. We also took the spacers out and swapped them. It looked the same. I am just being OCD and extra cautious bc I am new to bikes (used to have an old 2 stroke scooter) and the bike is brand new.

Thank you again for your advice and input!

 

[m in sc]

if you fell resistance, its rubbing somewhere.

 

[Allhatnocattle]

if you fell resistance, its rubbing somewhere.

That's what I afraid of, but no idea where. The only place it could be would be the brakes. The fender totally removed. It's not touching the shock boots(that I can see when stationary). Maybe I need to relube the axel?

 

[Allhatnocattle]

that's the problem when running tires that are too big. Also, your brake cant drag really. the caliper/pads centers itself. I see this all too often with people trying to run 'tractor tires' on cafe bikes w stock rims. want wider tires? get wider rims. the profile will be correct and they wont bulge out. make sure the spacers on the wheel are installed on the correct side as well.

want to diagnose it? pull the wheel off look for rub marks. on the forks, gaitors, or anything else. If you had a shop do it, have them look at it. .02

If it wasn't going to cost me $150 to have the tires swapped again, I'd probably just put these Kenda k262 2.75"s on and call it a day... hindsight is 20/20. But I do seem to be having more problems with these 3" golden boys than most other folks on the forum...

 

[Carolina Vagabond]

Have you sat on the bike while someone else looked at the front end? It shouldn’t make much difference on the front but there seems to be something weird going on.

 

[Allhatnocattle]

Have you sat on the bike while someone else looked at the front end? It shouldn’t make much difference on the front but there seems to be something weird going on.

I have not. You mean like take it off the stand and apply weight to it? I will give that a shot today.

 

[m in sc]

swap the front tire leave the back on. no, you don't need to 'relube the axle'. thats not it. Ive done a LOT of mechanical/design work on bikes over 30 years, including wheel building/front end swaps, machining bushings, brake swaps from models to models, etc. Ive seen this before. swap the tire. take the front wheel off, take to the shop, have them swap it. there is -zero- benefit of running a bigger tire on a smaller rim, I don't care what anyone says worked 40 years ago, its never a good idea. there's a range of size to fit a rim. check the tire mfg specs. they exist for a reason.

If you fart around at 25-40 mph, probably not that big an issue. you're talking about running at near max speed on this on the road. this will introduce unwanted heat into the tire and cause issues as well.

put the bike on the center-stand. weight the back down so the front wheel is off the ground. spin it. listen for the rub. this is what the shop should have done. TBH, they shouldn't have mounted that tire in the 1st place. like said want wider tires? fit wider rims. note the profile of the tire looks correct... because it is.

 

[Allhatnocattle]

swap the front tire leave the back on. no, you don't need to 'relube the axle'. thats not it. Ive done a LOT of mechanical/design work on bikes over 30 years, including wheel building/front end swaps, machining bushings, brake swaps from models to models, etc. Ive seen this before. swap the tire. take the front wheel off, take to the shop, have them swap it. there is -zero- benefit of running a bigger tire on a smaller rim, I don't care what anyone says worked 40 years ago, its never a good idea. there's a range of size to fit a rim. check the tire mfg specs. they exist for a reason.

If you fart around at 25-40 mph, probably not that big an issue. you're talking about running at near max speed on this on the road. this will introduce unwanted heat into the tire and cause issues as well.

put the bike on the center-stand. weight the back down so the front wheel is off the ground. spin it. listen for the rub. this is what the shop should have done. TBH, they shouldn't have mounted that tire in the 1st place. like said want wider tires? fit wider rims. note the profile of the tire looks correct... because it is.


View attachment 2314

I am not trying to be a smart ass but the stock tire is 80, which I assumed stands for 80mm. 80mm is 3.14". These tires I mounted are 3". Also there are at least 5 other people running these tires with no issues other than fender rub.

 

[m in sc]

you are sort of right. road and off road tires measure slightly different. the correct size to replace is a with 2.75 since the knobs stick out. this affects the overall profile. you dont have the front end width to run it w out interference, obviously. that's also why there's a 'range'. 1st to consider is rim, second is environment. (forks/chain/fender clearance) . technically it should work... but it interferes, so it really doesn't work right.

 

[AZ7000']

if you fell resistance, its rubbing somewhere.

Like a 4t engine brake?

 

[Allhatnocattle]

you are sort of right. road and off road tires measure slightly different. the correct size to replace is a with 2.75 since the knobs stick out. this affects the overall profile. you dont have the front end width to run it w out interference, obviously. that's also why there's a 'range'. 1st to consider is rim, second is environment. (forks/chain/fender clearance) . technically it should work... but it interferes, so it really doesn't work right.

Makes sense. This is a weird one for sure. I have ruled out the rubber itself rubbing anywhere. There's no fender to rub and it's nowhere near anything else. So maybe just the weight of the tire is throwing the wheel off balance and causing rub at the brake or somewhere near the axel. I just don't see what else it could be. I really think it may just be me not being used to the knobby heavy tires, so instead of rolling nice and easy on the road when letting of the throttle like it used to, there's more heavy chunky tread just giving the feeling of resistance when letting off the throttle. Thanks for helping an amature like me troubleshoot

 

[m in sc]

that really makes no sense but if you can live with it,... so be it. knobbies actually have LESS contact patch area on pavement than regular tires. just fyi. and yes ive ridden on the street with those exact same tires on a different bike.

 

[Allhatnocattle]

that really makes no sense but if you can live with it,... so be it. knobbies actually have LESS contact patch area on pavement than regular tires. just fyi. and yes ive ridden on the street with those exact same tires on a different bike.

I'm no rocket surgeon, but as a guy who has put over-sized all-terrain tires on damn near every 4-wheeled vehicle I've ever owned, I recall the ride feeling more sluggish every time I did it. Also MPG always takes a hit obviously. Just more work for the vehicle to move the larger diameter/heavier rubber. Just my observations mixed with a little hopeful optimism. Might have to look into a sprocket to help the situation if it is in fact, just the tire size.

 

[m in sc]

that's a totally different scenario. its not a car, truck or side by side. Again, I would strongly recommend stuffing the 2.75 on the front. But, good luck. I've explained it as best I can... as somebody that has owned and modified well over 100 bikes in his life & many, many cars.... (and do all my own work).

 

[Allhatnocattle]

that's a totally different scenario. its not a car, truck or side by side. Again, I would strongly recommend stuffing the 2.75 on the front. But, good luck. I've explained it as best I can... as somebody that has owned and modified well over 100 bikes in his life & many, many cars.... (and do all my own work).

Your input and info is much appreciated! I probably did a poor job of explaining the issue in the first place. Thanks for bearing with me there. Will update once I get to the bottom of it.

 

[Carolina Vagabond]

@Allhatnocattle , when you get frustrated with it just walk away awhile and think about THIS idiot that just spent 30 minutes trying to thread a mirror on to a ‘79 CT90. I’ve messed with CT’s for a long time but, in my Friday afternoon haste, I forgot the oldest rule....” Righty tighty, lefty loosey”

 

[Allhatnocattle]

So after mounting the front fender with lift kit and checking everything again, I think the resistance I was feeling when letting off the throttle was.... low PSI in the front tire. When I had been working on stuff the week before I had used a bicycle tire pump to add some air to the front tire. The gauge had misread 25 PSI, so when I checked it again using a regular gauge it said 15..... Added more air and brought it up to 25 in the front and now it's MUCH better. The wheel is still off-center to the right, but I am convinced that is by design and just made more obvious by the chunky tires.

Thanks for your help everyone.