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Does Running 3.0s front/back solve ABS light flashing issue w/sprocket change??

Thorn

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I have read 1-2 posts from forum members reporting that running 3.0 size tires front and rear keeps the ABS systems from faulting and thus keeping the ABS light from flashing when you put different sprockets on other than stock. I am just trying to confirm this from more than 1-2 users. If this is the case it would be the deciding factor for me to put a matching Kenda K276 3.0 on the front and do the fender lift mod. Thanks
 

AZ7000'

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Jan 28, 2021
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I did 3.0 244's first and no light, then a few months later I did the 13T and still no light.I had one of the first 125's in the US. S/N 250 I believe
 

Thorn

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I did 3.0 244's first and no light, then a few months later I did the 13T and still no light.I had one of the first 125's in the US. S/N 250 I believe
Interesting. Thanks for the info. I'm running a 13T front and 45T rear, so I don't know if The front and rear sprocket being different than stock matters. I probably won't know until I try it.
 

SneakyDingo

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I have read 1-2 posts from forum members reporting that running 3.0 size tires front and rear keeps the ABS systems from faulting and thus keeping the ABS light from flashing when you put different sprockets on other than stock. I am just trying to confirm this from more than 1-2 users. If this is the case it would be the deciding factor for me to put a matching Kenda K276 3.0 on the front and do the fender lift mod. Thanks
That doesn't make sense to me. The ABS light triggering is a difference in rotational speed greater than expected between the front and rear wheels. In a perfect world it is expecting that you're going to have front wheel spinning at the same rate as back wheel. If you change your rear sprocket by 20%, such that the computer sees one wheel is slipping by 20% rotation speed, it assumes that's caused by loss of traction. If it sees that continuously, it doesn't know what's going on, doesn't have the capability to self-adjust properly to the new ratio, and throws up an ABS light because it assumes the system has some sort of unexpected condition (like... ya know... messing with the gearing ratios substantially).

So going 2.75/2.75 to 3.0/3.0 won't do anything. Changing the sprocket ratio sufficiently that the bike thinks the rear tire is continuously spinning (losing traction) will though.

I'm running a 13T front and 45T rear, so I don't know if The front and rear sprocket being different than stock matters.
Of the two things - tire size, or your 13/45 gear ratio - your gear ratio will be the thing that triggers the ABS system light.
 

dmonkey

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What @SneakyDingo said. The ABS compares the speed from the countershaft (before the sprockets and rear wheel) with the speed at the front wheel (read from the ABS pulser ring). 1 tooth less on the front sprocket seems to be right on the border of what the ABS will accommodate as a discrepancy on the earlier JA55 models, where at speed it may still fault. If you want to change gearing beyond that and have ABS function as expected, purchase and install a speedometer healer that also corrects the speed reported to ABS. Two such products on the market for the CT125 are the 12oClockLabs SpeedoDRD and the OPMID Dr. Speed Speedometer Calibrator.
 

Thorn

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Thanks for the great info. I figured that with my big sprocket changes that there is no correcting it unless I put an aftermarket gauge, which I don't feel the need for.
 

dmonkey

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To clarify, the gauge display replacements do not correct for ABS faults. Those alone only correct for speed & distance display discrepancies at the gauge/meter. You need something that "lies" to the ABS to cause it to not fault when the gearing has been changed significantly.
 

SneakyDingo

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If you're a programmer, you can probably work out something using an 8266 chip and some basic electrical circuitry. But a little black sticker to go over the ABS light and hide it, and knowing your bike doesn't have ABS is probably the cheaper, easier, safer option.
 
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