First Oil Change

[Fun4me]

Changed oil in the LRD for the first time today at 300 miles. Used Honda GN4 as recommended in the owner's manual. Photo of flakes left in the pan is attached. Also installed a Gold Plug magnetic drain plug to help in the future. It wouldn't have caught the larger stuff in this change since they were all aluminum. Took longer to warm up the oil than it did to complete the whole job.

 

[AstroStrat89]

I did my 1st change on both Trail and Super Cub with <50 miles on them and had some larger flakes. Installed the Gold plug as well. I don't have any reason to be skeptical of the manufacture recommendations but considering it is a quick job and only take a quart of oil it seems to be a no brainer to just get that stuff out ASAP. Almost at 300 miles on both and may just change the oil again this weekend and will report back.

 

[AstroStrat89]

Got around to changing the oil in both bikes last Friday 5/14 right around 300 miles on them. Sorry for the crappy pic of the drain pan, it was getting late and running out of steam at that point. So you can see that even after changing the oil at less than 50mi and again at 300 there is still quite a bit of "getting to know you" with the internals. It does seem that my bike has a little more umph behind it now but take that with a gain of salt. Could be my inexperience and perception. My top speed on a flat run seems to be about 50-52MPH at 98% throttle (I'm about 240lbs). FWIW I put in Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w30 in it.

 

[Fun4me]

Got around to changing the oil in both bikes last Friday 5/14 right around 300 miles on them. Sorry for the crappy pic of the drain pan, it was getting late and running out of steam at that point. So you can see that even after changing the oil at less than 50mi and again at 300 there is still quite a bit of "getting to know you" with the internals. It does seem that my bike has a little more umph behind it now but take that with a gain of salt. Could be my inexperience and perception. My top speed on a flat run seems to be about 50-52MPH at 98% throttle (I'm about 240lbs). FWIW I put in Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w30 in it.




View attachment 954
View attachment 955

Wow, that drain plug sure caught a lot of crud. Glad I installed one during my first oil change at 300 miles. At 555 miles now so will see what I get at the 600 mile swap.

 

[Fun4me]

Did my second oil change on the LRD the other day with just over 600 miles on it. Glad I installed the Gold plug during the first oil change at 300 miles. Picture of the crap I caught on it is attached. Pretty nasty looking stuff but maybe I should expect that with no filter on this thing. I'll probably wait another 1000 miles before the next change since the owners manual recommends every 4000.

 

[GORT]

For a second I thought that was a spark plug. Whew.

 

[Fun4me]

For a second I thought that was a spark plug. Whew.

That does kind of look like the business end of a spark plug instead of an oil drain plug on first glance. A lot of crud either way, but glad the Gold plug is doing its job.

 

[Dakar Dan]

First oil change with Honda 10w30 at 50 km & installed a Gold Plug. No chunks, slivers or metal particles visible but a few remnants of paper gasket. Also degreased the chain, adjusted it & relubed with 90w gear oil. It shifts much better now, I think it was a tad too tight from the dealer. I also rotated the gear lever up a notch at the front, which suits me better to get the toe of my boot underneath and moves the heel shifter down out if the way. I’ve quickly adapted to tapping it with my toe back there for quick upshifts. The kick starter on the other side doesn’t seem to be in the way for me in its standard position.

The spongy front brake was improved by putting the bike on the sidestand with the brake reservoir high, holding the lever in & gently tapping the line to float any micro bubbles up and out of the fluid. I’ll pay a bit closer attention to the pads when I get the front wheel out to fit & balance the Kenda Trials tyres next week.

The handle on the rear rack hasn’t given me any grief so far, I’m happy to report. Really digging the ease of use and more relaxed pace of the CT so far.

 

[AZ7000']

I’ve quickly adapted to tapping it with my toe back there for quick upshifts.

The old flip flop shifter. This is my technique for 10+ years on the 74, 75, and now the 21. I believe that is how it was designed, not Harley heel style.
Enjoy!

 

[r80rt]

Yep, it's a toe toe shifter.

 

[jBIRDt]

Yep, it's a toe toe shifter.

I agree that ball of foot, ball of foot shifting is the most comfortable for me along with a slower shifting action that seems to mesh "all things moving" together nicely.

 

[jBIRDt]

First oil change and inspection (adjustments) 602 miles being done tomorrow at & by the dealer service dept. Peace of mind for me and hands on experience for future sales information to other buyers. I always like honest correct answers from a seller.

 

[AstroStrat89]

3rd oil change at 900 miles and very little crud on the Gold plug.

 

[Dakar Dan]

I agree that ball of foot, ball of foot shifting is the most comfortable for me along with a slower shifting action that seems to mesh "all things moving" together nicely.

I was surprised at how long it took me to adapt to the CT’s shift mechanism. It definitely helped adjusting a bit more freeplay via the clutch adj nut: instantly turned from a clunk to a click with a full quarter turn. Other caveats are having enough slack in the throttle cable to allow the revs to drop to idle momentarily during the shift and correct chain slack. Once tuned, it is a pleasure to use and easy to see why Honda has sold so many units in this configuration. After sampling many different shifter set-ups from conventionally clutched motos, CVT auto scooters, clutched & twist shift Vespas and thumb throttle quads, I’d be very curious to try the DCT auto in the Africa Twin & Rebel cruisers. Sure, that engine is close to ten times the capacity of the Trail but another great example of Honda’s platform engineering at work.

 

[Kritou]

I was surprised at how long it took me to adapt to the CT’s shift mechanism. It definitely helped adjusting a bit more freeplay via the clutch adj nut: instantly turned from a clunk to a click with a full quarter turn. Other caveats are having enough slack in the throttle cable to allow the revs to drop to idle momentarily during the shift and correct chain slack. Once tuned, it is a pleasure to use and easy to see why Honda has sold so many units in this configuration. After sampling many different shifter set-ups from conventionally clutched motos, CVT auto scooters, clutched & twist shift Vespas and thumb throttle quads, I’d be very curious to try the DCT auto in the Africa Twin & Rebel cruisers. Sure, that engine is close to ten times the capacity of the Trail but another great example of Honda’s platform engineering at work.

Can you point me to that clutch adjust nut please? Thanks

 

[SneakyDingo]

I was surprised at how long it took me to adapt to the CT’s shift mechanism. It definitely helped adjusting a bit more freeplay via the clutch adj nut: instantly turned from a clunk to a click with a full quarter turn. Other caveats are having enough slack in the throttle cable to allow the revs to drop to idle momentarily during the shift and correct chain slack. Once tuned, it is a pleasure to use and easy to see why Honda has sold so many units in this configuration. After sampling many different shifter set-ups from conventionally clutched motos, CVT auto scooters, clutched & twist shift Vespas and thumb throttle quads, I’d be very curious to try the DCT auto in the Africa Twin & Rebel cruisers. Sure, that engine is close to ten times the capacity of the Trail but another great example of Honda’s platform engineering at work.

Can you point me to that clutch adjust nut please? Thanks

Is it this one?

 

[r80rt]

Yep.

 

[Dakar Dan]

Can you point me to that clutch adjust nut please? Thanks

It’s on the right hand side of the crankcase: 14mm nut locking a screw thread with a single slot. Check for a more detailed description but you back off the 14mm nut, turn the inner bolt clockwise a single turn with a flat blade screwdriver then gently back it out counterclockwise again until resistance is felt, then inwards again 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Hold it steady with the screwdriver while you relock the nut again.

 

[rkutzner]

So after looking under the CT125 to do my first oil change I noticed two potential bolts ! One has a copper washer but faces forward some (left of center if sitting on bike). The other is right of center and faces straight down. I looked at two videos and was surprised you don't drain through the bolt with the copper washer on the left ! WHAT IS THAT FOR? Access to something?

Rich

 

[dmonkey]

Odd as it may sound, that other bolt is part of the cam chain tensioner system that's partially hydraulic.