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Front End Bounce after Tire Replacement.
- Thread starter Eclite331
- Start date
m in sc
Well-known member
there's as molded in line in the sidewall for alignment. take a good close look, its usually 2-3mm away from the rim end. (and any tire ive dealt with) . if thats visually even vs the rim all the way around on both sides, its usually seated fine.
Alright I hope everyone is ready for a good laugh. So the guy who mounted the tire called back after having me drop the bike off on Friday for him to look at and fix the issue. He is now saying that he can’t fix it because the tires I bought are junk and if I want to buy good tires he will put those on for me and it will fix the issue. I explained to him that they are shinkos, a reputable brand, and thousands of people have put them on their trails without issue. He told me I owe him $35 and to come get my bike.
RustyRodder
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2022
- Messages
- 147
Sounds like a moron
I'd ask him for clarification on why they're junk. 
Either the tire is defective, something else is off (wheel out of true), or he's just giving you a b.s. excuse. The last one certainly sounds the most likely. Who knows why he wouldn't just... do the job.
Shinko tires aren't known for being either great or terrible. They're a budget tire brand and most of their models, including street tires, often don't hold up to the competition when it comes to tire longevity. The "Golden Boy" tire molds are ones they purchased from Yokohama Rubber though, the OEM manufacturer of tires for older Honda CTs.
If you have more initiative than that guy, you'll be able to balance it yourself after a few minutes of sitting in front of the tube. I would static balance it on the axle, but some other people are fans of additive balancers (tire beads, tire sealant). Personally I would also check if the front wheel looks true, as I've had quite a few different tires including Shinko SR241s on my CT125 and they were never off balance enough to bother with it. Be sure to print out your credentials after getting it taken care of.
Either the tire is defective, something else is off (wheel out of true), or he's just giving you a b.s. excuse. The last one certainly sounds the most likely. Who knows why he wouldn't just... do the job.
Shinko tires aren't known for being either great or terrible. They're a budget tire brand and most of their models, including street tires, often don't hold up to the competition when it comes to tire longevity. The "Golden Boy" tire molds are ones they purchased from Yokohama Rubber though, the OEM manufacturer of tires for older Honda CTs.
If you have more initiative than that guy, you'll be able to balance it yourself after a few minutes of sitting in front of the tube. I would static balance it on the axle, but some other people are fans of additive balancers (tire beads, tire sealant). Personally I would also check if the front wheel looks true, as I've had quite a few different tires including Shinko SR241s on my CT125 and they were never off balance enough to bother with it. Be sure to print out your credentials after getting it taken care of.
Farmer Mike
Active member
Well, it may seem odd, but I plan to do all my own as well, not because of money, but because I want it done right, and I want to have the skill. Anyone have a suggestion on a decent balancer that works well with the CT wheels? I plan to static balance, just because, using spoke weights. It will be close enough for 45 MPH.
eastema
Active member
I've been doing all my tires since mid 80s. I made this set up: shaft, 2 cones that push up to bearings in wheel, (or to inner casting of wheel like on tapered wheel brg harleys.) The two bearings on the end sit on jack stands, and the wheel can freely rotate until the heavy part comes to rest at the bottom. Then rotate 90 degrees. And add weight opposite the heavy side until wheel does not try to rotate from here. You're done! I learned this method from the pros racing at Loudon NH track. If it's good for 150 mph on the race bikes, it's good for me on the street. I have never felt a tire imbalance using this method.
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Most stands include a shaft for mounting the wheel on, and that's where the incompatibility is. That shaft is usually 15mm or so and then the centering cones for it are larger, while the CT125 has a 12mm axle.
One workaround is to buy one of the stands with double rollers on both sides, and use the CT's own axle to balance the wheel. I don't have a photo of doing that with the CT, but here it is for my Moto Guzzi V7's front wheel:
You would need to modify the stand to bring the two posts close enough together to use the OEM axle. You can probably achieve that with the very generic GoPlus/HarborFreight/Tusk stand that is also sold under dozens of other brandings. In this photo below, you'd unbolt the right post, drill 2 holes more inward, and then it should fit the length of the axle shaft. Or, buy a long rod and use that instead. If you do that, measure the actual axle OD as it might be just inside 12mm (11.xxx) and buying a literal 12mm OD rod might be too big and require it to be turned. I haven't checked.
Setting an axle on two leveled jack stands is another technique, but I haven't tried that with the CT axle and it might be difficult since the axle is a bolt with a hex head cap on one end.
You can also balance it on the bike. Get the front wheel of the ground, prop something against the front fork to hold it straight rather than flopped to either side, and make sure the front brake pads are not dragging or remove the caliper.
One workaround is to buy one of the stands with double rollers on both sides, and use the CT's own axle to balance the wheel. I don't have a photo of doing that with the CT, but here it is for my Moto Guzzi V7's front wheel:
You would need to modify the stand to bring the two posts close enough together to use the OEM axle. You can probably achieve that with the very generic GoPlus/HarborFreight/Tusk stand that is also sold under dozens of other brandings. In this photo below, you'd unbolt the right post, drill 2 holes more inward, and then it should fit the length of the axle shaft. Or, buy a long rod and use that instead. If you do that, measure the actual axle OD as it might be just inside 12mm (11.xxx) and buying a literal 12mm OD rod might be too big and require it to be turned. I haven't checked.
Setting an axle on two leveled jack stands is another technique, but I haven't tried that with the CT axle and it might be difficult since the axle is a bolt with a hex head cap on one end.
You can also balance it on the bike. Get the front wheel of the ground, prop something against the front fork to hold it straight rather than flopped to either side, and make sure the front brake pads are not dragging or remove the caliper.