Large rider fixes for the front and rear suspension

[TRF90]

Yes, to a certain extent. But, if you go too thick, it will just be harsh on sharp edged bumps. Also, firmer damping does not compensate for spring rates that are too soft.

 

[dmonkey]

Thicker oil will make a more significant difference if you've added a valve in each fork. Some of the aftermarket fork caps and full spring kits include them.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I got my Trail 125 four weeks ago, and was pleased with most everything but the suspension. With my 220 pounds, the forks were riding halfway down in their travel and they bottomed at the slightest provocation. Pretty much the same for the rear shocks. I began with a zero cost solution I learned here on the forum. Putting the bike on the centerstand, I was able to sit alongside it and rotate the rear collars on the shocks out of their slots thus effectively adding more pre-load. This helped them to ride a little higher in the travel, but did not stop the bottoming part for me. Following another solution I learned on the forum, I ended up using eight dime sized washers on each side as pre-loads on the forks. Alas, the progressively wound fork springs barely took notice. Round two: following another forum writer, I purchased the "Super Awesome Shocks" from Treatland. When you look on their site, these are the adjustable 350 mm to 370 mm ones. As a bonus they also include "Egoboost technology." They are now available in black and are preload adjustable. If you are over 200 pounds, I cannot imagine a better solution. Cost was around $210 shipped to my doorstep. Problem solved. Following another thread on the site, I found a set of used XL 100 fork springs and popped them in. Since they are a good deal longer than the stock springs, the preload tubes were no longer necessary. However, even after adding all those washers, the fork still rode too low in its travel and bottomed too easily. Round three: I reasoned that the XL 100 springs were taking me in a good direction, but they were simply too soft for my weight. So I found a pair of new Motion Pro 30% stiffer fork springs for the XR/XL 100s on eBay and got them home for $40 shipped. These are single rate springs with no softer progressive section. Now, finally, the forks sit up in their travel , and actually do something to absorb bumps. Again, the preload pipes are no longer necessary, and I did not need to use the washers as pre-load shims. But I did add 20ccs per leg of 15 weight fork oil to replace the lost oil from spring changes and perhaps to reduce the size of the air column at full compression. Now that the suspension is well sorted, I might say a word about the necessity of proper springing in motorcycle suspension. If forks and shocks ride low in their travel and bottom easily, the bike will never really feel stable or planted on the trail. I ride mostly bumpy desert roads and paths in first and second gear with occasional segments in third gear. Typical trail speeds are 15 to 25 miles an hour. The bike is now significantly more stable and no longer slams or deflects over even the sharpest bumps. A Trail 125's ride will never match a full sized, properly suspended dirt bike – either vintage or modern - but it should feel pretty stable and safe at normal trail speeds. The bike even feels more stable now on the street. Mission accomplished.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Newbie , got the shocks and fork springs you recommended , never changed fork springs before, do you just undo caps at top of fork and replace the springs or do the forks need to be removed, tks.

 

[bradatlarge]

Newbie , got the shocks and fork springs you recommended , never changed fork springs before, do you just undo caps at top of fork and replace the springs or do the forks need to be removed, tks.

I too am concerned about my ability to do this. I’ve got a call into my honda powersports shop for a few things that I want to do - this is one of them.

 

[dmonkey]

Correct, the forks don't need to be removed as long as you can fish the internals out.
Here's some helpful tips:

 

[Uncle Buck]

Correct, the forks don't need to be removed as long as you can fish the internals out.
Here's some helpful tips:

thanks , easier than I thought.

 

[TRF90]

Hi all, just catching up with the conversation. I might add that when you pull your springs out, let them drain for a little while before completely removing them. Quite a bit of oil will come out with them if you remove them too quickly. Also, make sure you have a wrench that fits the fork caps tightly. Easy to mar them. Let us know how it goes!

 

[Uncle Buck]

Hi all, just catching up with the conversation. I might add that when you pull your springs out, let them drain for a little while before completely removing them. Quite a bit of oil will come out with them if you remove them too quickly. Also, make sure you have a wrench that fits the fork caps tightly. Easy to mar them. Let us know how it goes!

so basically undo fork cap, remove preload pipes and original springs drop in new springs, add 20 cc's 15 weight fork oil and retighten fork caps.

 

[TRF90]

Yes, that's it. Put it on the center stand and do one side at a time. There's a little washer between the preload tube and the springs. You can reuse that.

 

[Salty Sway]

I changed fork springs recently and discovered as others have there's not an equal amount of oil from leg to leg. Factory calls for 140 mm from the top with the forks full compressed. With the bike on the center stand and fork springs removed pull/push/jack-up the front end until the forks are fully compressed and measure. Am easy way is using clear tubing measure 140mm, put that down the fork leg until the mark is at the top, using a mighty vac / syringe see if any oil comes out, if not add a bit until you can remove some using the hose.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Yes, that's it. Put it on the center stand and do one side at a time. There's a little washer between the preload tube and the springs. You can reuse that.

in the earlier post you had said you didn't reuse the preload tube . so just set washer on top of springs ?

 

[Salty Sway]

in the earlier post you had said you didn't reuse the preload tube . so just set washer on top of springs ?

If you went to CRF/XR100 springs only the washer is needed. Can add a length of spacer to increase preload if needed.

 

[TRF90]

in the earlier post you had said you didn't reuse the preload tube . so just set washer on top of springs ?

Yes

 

[Uncle Buck]

If you went to CRF/XR100 springs only the washer is needed. Can add a length of spacer to increase preload if needed.

Thanks for your help, I did go with those springs , mount rear shocks and fork springs this weekend .

 

[TRF90]

Thanks for your help, I did go with those springs , mount rear shocks and fork springs this weekend .

Great. Looking forward to a ride report.

 

[Cherch]

anyone use the Honda CT125 Trail 125 Hunter Cub JA55 JA65 YSS Gas Shock Rear Suspension 365mm as found on eBay? Cost 131.66 plus shipping. I'm looking into these as an alternative to the dual spring rate progressive adjustable shocks with EGOBOOST™ technology- 350mm - 370mm in BLACK from Treatland for 220.00 plus shipping
Just curious about comparison of two different shocks

 

[TRF90]

anyone use the Honda CT125 Trail 125 Hunter Cub JA55 JA65 YSS Gas Shock Rear Suspension 365mm as found on eBay? Cost 131.66 plus shipping. I'm looking into these as an alternative to the dual spring rate progressive adjustable shocks with EGOBOOST™ technology- 350mm - 370mm in BLACK from Treatland for 220.00 plus shipping
Just curious about comparison of two different shocks

I've only tried the Treatland shocks. But if you find somebody who has tried the YSS shocks, make sure that his or her weight and yours are relatively similar. The Treatlands work so well for me, because I weigh about 220 pounds in full riding gear.

 

[Cherch]

thanks, I weigh in around 205 on a good day.

 

[m in sc]

i have had both, the yss are good as well but i liked the treatlands more. about the same weight.. 205-210