New Owner Questions - Oil Changes & Kickstand Cutoff Disable

[moshe_levy]

Hi All-

Just picked her up yesterday. Two questions for the experts:

1) Owner's manual says you don't have to inspect the oil strainer screen or centrifugal filter until the 4,000 mile mark. I totally get preventative maintenance, but I'm seeing Youtube videos, etc. with folks doing this at 600 miles. What's the consensus - I'm guessing overkill can't hurt anything. My plan is to install a magnetized drain plug and just follow the owner's manual.

2) Is there a way to disable the function which doesn't allow the bike to be started or run when the kickstand is down? If so, details appreciated.

-MKL

 

[AZ7000']

Pretty sure you can buy a $40+ jumper or just jump the wires at the kickstand…

 

[m in sc]

Everyone has different opinions. I changed mine at 100 miles just because, i wanted do see how it was breaking in. was fine. The bike should run with the sidestand down when in neutral. .02 but yes you can bypass it with a jumper , not sure why you'd want it to start or run, in gear, with the sidestand down.

 

[moshe_levy]

Everyone has different opinions. I changed mine at 100 miles just because, i wanted do see how it was breaking in. was fine. The bike should run with the sidestand down when in neutral. .02 but yes you can bypass it with a jumper , not sure why you'd want it to start or run, in gear, with the sidestand down.

I did not realize that it started in N on the sidestand. If that's indeed the case, it's fine as-is with me. Thanks!

 

[Dakar Dan]

It starts & runs in neutral on either stand & will run in gear on the centrestand only. The kickstarter is very easy to use, I think there’s an auto decompressor on the stock cam.
I think the centrifugal strainer is mainly to prevent clutch plate material from progressing into the general oil circulation. Apparently its a fiddly f&€#er to reassemble the clutch release mechanism after cleaning the round strainer. There is a separate square mesh filter to clean with the right side engine cover off, too.
I changed my oil early in order to install a magnetic plug and the run-in oil looked murky at 75 km but I don’t run engines in gently. Subsequent dipstick checks look much cleaner. Just used the cheapest Honda semi synth 10w30 moto oil & will stick to that for all my 4T garden stuff and even the 2T dirtbike gearbox.
I also found the drive chain too tight, zero play in the throttle cable and the clutch adjustment not slack enough, which all made shifting a PITA for the first ride but very easy to adjust. I wonder if the factory sets them up this way knowing that most owners skip the first service and just let everything wear itself into adjustment over the first 1000 km.

 

[Monaro]

It’s been suggested to me it should be run with conventional oil 400 miles or so to seat in and then switch to synthetic oil if desired.
Any thoughts?

 

[Dakar Dan]

It starts & runs in neutral on either stand & will run in gear on the centrestand only. The kickstarter is very easy to use, I think there’s an auto decompressor on the stock cam.
I think the centrifugal strainer is mainly to prevent clutch plate material from progressing into the general oil circulation. Apparently its a fiddly f&€#er to reassemble the clutch release mechanism after cleaning the round strainer. There is a separate square mesh filter to clean with the right side engine cover off, too.
I changed my oil early in order to install a magnetic plug and the run-in oil looked murky at 75 km but I don’t run engines in gently. Subsequent dipstick checks look much cleaner. Just used the cheapest Honda semi synth 10w30 moto oil & will stick to that for all my 4T garden stuff and even the 2T dirtbike gearbox.

It’s been suggested to me it should be run with conventional oil 400 miles or so to seat in and then switch to synthetic oil if desired.
Any thoughts?

After several complete heat cycles with progressive load & compression braking, I discard the original oil & switch to a quality Mineral oil with synthetic additives, it’s my compromise on my mostly low tech machinery. With regular oil changes, it has worked well for thirty years. With a very high compression, high tech engine it may differ.

 

[AstroStrat89]

Lots of oil threads. I changed out the oil at 30, 300, and 900 mile. At 30 I installed a magnetic plug to pull as much metal out during the break in period. Glad I did. This last one at 900 the magnet was pretty clean. No large bits of metal at all compared to the previous changes.

For the oil, I was happy to use Mobile 1 full Synthetic until I started reading a bit more (spurred by another thread on this forum) and decided to use the Honda GN oil for motorcycles. I do perceive better shifting with the GN4 oil that the Mobile 1. What convinced me is that the oil needs to lube both the engine and transmission and Motorcycle oil is designed to do both.

 

[dallasallad]

I've never owned a brand new engine before. I like the idea of a magnetic plug. Anyone have a link for one that fits?

EDIT: I see in another thread folks said it's a M12x1.5mm.
So I guess my options are:

• https://goldplug.com/shop/mp01/
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WJNTQF6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_P1ZDB000XJPPYBWXA1QX

 

[Carolina Vagabond]

I've never owned a brand new engine before. I like the idea of a magnetic plug. Anyone have a link for one that fits?

EDIT: I see in another thread folks said it's a M12x1.5mm.
So I guess my options are:

• https://goldplug.com/shop/mp01/
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WJNTQF6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_P1ZDB000XJPPYBWXA1QX

That’s it. Good job searching the forum! Lots of good info here and more added every day.

 

[m in sc]

magnetic plug literally has zero downsides, always a good idea.

 

[SneakyDingo]

magnetic plug literally has zero downsides, always a good idea.

Been interested in bikes for ages but I'd never heard of this before (wrong circles, etc.). Looked into it and I did find one that was pretty concerning.

Some of the drain plugs are not manufactured to the same level of care, and instead use a flimsy connection between the plug and the magnet. IIRC something something billet vs. cast? Or aluminum vs. steel? I don't remember the exact details, it was a few months ago. The takeaway statement was not to skimp with the plugs, and instead go with a reputable plug where the plug is manufactured within tolerances and will not snap off either at the threaded shaft or have the magnet fall off. So I ended up buying a MP-01 and not thinking too hard about it, but I did notice that the other model linked to had a few people complaining about bits snapping off.

The upside was failure tended to be on the less destructive side of things - it wasn't that it found its way into spinny bits and turned them into snappy bits, generally it was that you couldn't get the plug out from where you drain the oil, or that the magnet stuck to the inside of the case and eventually when you pulled everything apart on the 125 you'd have to remove it.

 

[m in sc]

I agree, go with a decent make of parts.. for anything.
TBH, you can just get a rare earth magnet, and drill into a stock plug and recess it in. will hold itself in and i can guarantee will never come out. i have done this on my 2 stroke transmission drain plugs for years.
I have no idea why anyone would use an aluminum plug with a magnet glued in it. TBH, ive never even heard of that.. but i guess it exists. and you make a good point.

Of course..., if buy a plug from alibaba or something sure. I cant imagine the qc on that crap is good, at all. or about 75% of the stuff on amazon.
My 7 quart milodon oil pan on my big block galaxie came with a magnetic drain plug, i have more $ in the motor than 1.5x the cost of a trail.. i think they know what they are doing. So, maybe i should revise my statement:

a quality magnetic plug literally has zero downsides, always a good idea.