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Polyurethane leather pleated seat in black

dmonkey

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I bought this polyurethane-leather seat for the pleated look with cord piping trim. Overall the seat height is a tiny bit lower, and the difference in shape as well as it having more grip than the stock seat keep you in place pretty well. With the stock seat in slick pants I got that uncomfortable feeling of sliding forward on a bike with no fuel tank between your knees.

Seat: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114497541750
Tools to install: socket wrench, 10mm socket

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G19Tony

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Jan 24, 2021
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Las Vegas, NV
I bought this polyurethane-leather seat for the pleated look with cord piping trim. Overall the seat height is a tiny bit lower, and the difference in shape as well as it having more grip than the stock seat keep you in place pretty well. With the stock seat in slick pants I got that uncomfortable feeling of sliding forward on a bike with no fuel tank between your knees.

Seat: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114497541750
Tools to install: socket wrench, 10mm socket

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Which Hippo Hands are you using? I just sent a set back, because I couldn't get them to fit. Thanks.
 

dmonkey

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The new seat's padding feels layered, like a thin soft layer over a more firm layer, while I feel the stock seat feels like the same medium density of foam material all the way through. So far I feel like the new seat is quite a bit more comfortable. I have a seat cover that I was using on the old seat to add a soft top layer, haven't had the desire to use it on the new seat yet but I'm keeping it in my Givi top case just in case I end up wanting it on a longer day of riding.

I had the same problem when testing the newer Hippo Hands on this bike as well as others. The ones I ended up using, that are in the photos, are the Rogue / 3M Reflective model which I bought around 2019. If you email Hippo Hands they have some older inventory on hand but not listed in their online store, so you might still be able to buy a pair.
 

Finding Neutral

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Feb 24, 2021
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Thank you for posting this seat information and detailed pictures. I've been hoping Corbin would release their version, but they said they are delayed due to not having access to a Trail125 to get their prototype created. Go figure.
I think the stock oem seat is way too hard for my liking. On a scale of 1-10 the oem seat being a 1, where would you rate this new aftermarket seat comfort level wise? Thanks again.
 

dmonkey

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I would say that after 30 min of street riding or any bumpy riding with the stock seat being a 1, I'd rate this aftermarket replacement at a 4. It's certainly more comfortable, but not nearly as comfortable as a carved out Corbin, Mustang, or Saddlemen seat could be. I think all aftermarket seats will face ergonomic (and aesthetic) limitations with this bike since it's not a large seated cruiser, adv, or touring bike and you're sitting on it like it's a classic scooter. I think the backrest I have on my Givi 58L top box brings it up to a 6 for street riding, it's nice having some back support accessible during longer rides - off-road on my local terrain it's a bit too bouncy to lean back against comfortably.
 

Finding Neutral

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Much thanks for sharing this seat information. I was going to send my OEM seat off to get redone professionally. But once the cost started getting close to a Corbin I said nevermind. I'm getting the vibe Corbin will be a long time. So I might just get a seat like yours during the interim. I really like the classic looks of your seat, moreso than the oem. What exhaust do you have? Your header pipe looks upgraded. Heres my girlfriend 😍...
 

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PeterB

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Mar 20, 2025
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Anybody tried these? Looks longer - covers the "tail-bone murder-bar" by all appearances.
there's a few models - some "slim" some not - all are PMRacing branded. They look like they
might be worth a try?
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dmonkey

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There is a similar slightly longer seat under the MotolordD brand that covers the grab handle which has been posted about on this forum:
 

CTExplorer

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Jan 23, 2023
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I've got the Motolord version and it's got plus and minuses.

+'s I don't hit the grab bar anymore or worry about it. I believe it's more comfortable on long rides so far and gives you more wiggle room.

-'s it's not as useable as it seems since the rear slopes up enough that you can't really take advantage of the extra length comfortably. It's more slippery then the stock seat. I've read it's not waterproof which could become a comfort issue if raining or tip in water. You can't use the grab bar anymore


If I had to do it again I'd get the horizontal bar pattern to help reduce the slickness. I've considered having padding added to the front take it the se height as the back to make if fully useable but may also make it to tall, or perfect.
 

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CTExplorer

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I've got the Motolord version and it's got plus and minuses.

+'s I don't hit the grab bar anymore or worry about it. I believe it's more comfortable on long rides so far and gives you more wiggle room.

-'s it's not as useable as it seems since the rear slopes up enough that you can't really take advantage of the extra length comfortably. It's more slippery then the stock seat. I've read it's not waterproof which could become a comfort issue if raining or tip in water. You can't use the grab bar anymore


If I had to do it again I'd get the horizontal bar pattern to help reduce the slickness. I've considered having padding added to the front take it the se height as the back to make if fully useable but may also make it to tall, or perfect.

Also forgot an important one:

Pro(?): The seat is wider and most likely part of the comfort difference

Con: it's wider so it's a little harder to get your feet on the ground.
 

PeterB

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Mar 20, 2025
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Got my seat - it's not bad. Now I just had shinkos put on - shoulda done it myself - the shop dropped the sprocket hub, and now my bearings shot - worst is the one in the sprocket hub. Not sure how - maybe when they dropped it ? Maybe when I torqued it? I did hear a snap, but I was not over-torquing - only to spec - then noticed binding of the wheel when tightened to spec - and so inspected the bearings - and now gravelly. Damn. Anybody have the part numbers? As I'm seeing something odd in searches - looks like in 2023 there's 3 diff bearings, but in 2022 2 of one, and one different only - of the three needed. Maybe I'm not seeing things right. HALP!
 
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dmonkey

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What you are likely seeing are multiple options for the same bearing, where you can buy one brand or another. The newer model year may just have more listed because the parts catalog that info came from is newer. Look at how they are numbered in the parts diagram and you'll see for example that a quantity of 2 number 27 bearings are used in the rear wheel hub, and a quantity of 1 number 26 bearing is used in the sprocket carrier/cush drive. So then you can look at number #26 and #27 in the parts listing and choose a brand. They're all big OEM suppliers, so you don't really need to put much thought into which brand to buy, whichever is in stock. Personally I'd order a set of dust seals and replace those too, it's easy to bugger them up on removal. Pack some waterproof grease between the bearing and dust seal on install.

Did you talk to the shop about it? It's risky bringing something back to someone who may have been incompetent enough to damage it in the first place, but you may be able to talk them into covering the replacement parts and labor if it was their fault.
 

PeterB

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What you are likely seeing are multiple options for the same bearing, where you can buy one brand or another. The newer model year may just have more listed because the parts catalog that info came from is newer. Look at how they are numbered in the parts diagram and you'll see for example that a quantity of 2 number 27 bearings are used in the rear wheel hub, and a quantity of 1 number 26 bearing is used in the sprocket carrier/cush drive. So then you can look at number #26 and #27 in the parts listing and choose a brand. They're all big OEM suppliers, so you don't really need to put much thought into which brand to buy, whichever is in stock. Personally I'd order a set of dust seals and replace those too, it's easy to bugger them up on removal. Pack some waterproof grease between the bearing and dust seal on install.

Did you talk to the shop about it? It's risky bringing something back to someone who may have been incompetent enough to damage it in the first place, but you may be able to talk them into covering the replacement parts and labor if it was their fault.

Thanks for your insights DMonkey - Well - after talking with a friend and reviewing the parts diagrams we discovered that spacer/sleeve #5 (photo from online parts house below)- is MISSING in action - seems it must have fallen out when they dropped the sprocket hub. So, it's hopefully still on the shop floor somewhere and not thrown out yet. They open at 0900 - so I'll be calling them. This is the obvious culprit - missing spacer -> torqued axle -> snapped bearings. Crap, crap crapetty crap. I hate when stuff like this happens. - I also just ordered a new bearing and seal set and bearing puller kit. Dang. Oh well.

Screenshot from 2025-04-23 07-34-24.png
 
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