POWER CLUTCH SPRINGS INSTALL!!!

[QuantiQualification]

 

[dmonkey]

Nice video walkthrough, thanks for sharing. With the stiffer springs it might be worth considering upgrading the clutch lifter plate to an aftermarket one designed for the extra load.

 

[QuantiQualification]

Thank you for the suggestion. I thought about that when I was choosing the springs to use. My understanding is if you go much higher than +30%, a different lifter plate becomes necessary. At 30% it will likely be okay.

 

[m in sc]

nice .

IMHO, the weak link when upping power is the centrifugal clutch, mine was slipping for sure if i shifted hard. i replaced all the disc clutch stuff in mine when i did the manual conversion, and used some upgraded ones i had laying around as well, just because i was in there. i would imagine the stiffer springs will affect the shift lever pressure a bit?

 

[CTExplorer]

Another great video. Thank you!

 

[QuantiQualification]

nice .

IMHO, the weak link when upping power is the centrifugal clutch, mine was slipping for sure if i shifted hard. i replaced all the disc clutch stuff in mine when i did the manual conversion, and used some upgraded ones i had laying around as well, just because i was in there. i would imagine the stiffer springs will affect the shift lever pressure a bit?

It should be slightly more shift pressure but I can't really tell. Interesting thought on the centrifugal clutch being the weak link. Not much can be done about that without increasing the weights or changing to a more grippy friction material. Thoughts from me are that I will test at lower rpm / max torque which is where it has slipped in the past. If it still slips, I can reduce increase the sprocket ratios from 15-39 to something like 14-41 which I have available to me.

 

[QuantiQualification]

Another great video. Thank you!

You are welcome! My wife was kind enough to film this one for me. She did a great job!

 

[dmonkey]

FWIW and to @m in sc 's point, the Honda 125 semi-auto-based drag racing bikes in Thailand are pretty much all converted to manual with the auto clutch eliminated to handle the extra power they make. If you were to add weight to the shoes it would change the RPM of engagement as that weight would work against the springs that pull the shoes back to center where they're disengaged. I haven't personally had any luck searching for aftermarket shoes claiming better friction material. Shy of converting to a manual, I think the best you might be able to do there is replacing worn components (there is a depth you can check on the shoes) and running a proper 4-stroke wet clutch motorcycle oil.

 

[QuantiQualification]

FWIW and to @m in sc 's point, the Honda 125 semi-auto-based drag racing bikes in Thailand are pretty much all converted to manual with the auto clutch eliminated to handle the extra power they make. If you were to add weight to the shoes it would change the RPM of engagement as that weight would work against the springs that pull the shoes back to center where they're disengaged. I haven't personally had any luck searching for aftermarket shoes claiming better friction material. Shy of converting to a manual, I think the best you might be able to do there is replacing worn components (there is a depth you can check on the shoes) and running a proper 4-stroke wet clutch motorcycle oil.

Great to know. I am currently running Motul 300 V2 10W-50 esther based. Any concerns with that oil as far as too much lubricity for the clutch?

 

[m in sc]

IMO no. should be fine. i know mine slipped because it glazed the drum. i took mine apart once before swapping to manual, and i dressed the inside of the drum with some sandpaper (roughed it up a bit and removed the glazing). it helped.

 

[Wisco125]

Great to know. I am currently running Motul 300 V2 10W-50 esther based. Any concerns with that oil as far as too much lubricity for the clutch?

Excellent video. Subscribed. Speaking of 300V, my Trail has been the perfect bike to use up a shelf full of partial bottles of 10W-30 bike oil. I'm getting close to just 300V and Maxima4 15W-50 left. 300V 10w-50 been working well?

 

[m in sc]

as far as the 300v goes, i had a wet clutch ducati that specified it and it never came close to slipping. and it was a 1000. pretty sure the trail will be ok w it.

 

[Wisco125]

as far as the 300v goes, i had a wet clutch ducati that specified it and it never came close to slipping. and it was a 1000. pretty sure the trail will be ok w it.

What's your take on using up my extra 15W-50 verses the Honda manual recommended 10W-30 that I have been using? Not trying to start oil war, just interested in your opinion if that's too heavy for the Trail.

 

[m in sc]

Ive run 20-50 in mine, it was fine.

 

[QuantiQualification]

Here is a quick clarification and update.

 

[QuantiQualification]

What's your take on using up my extra 15W-50 verses the Honda manual recommended 10W-30 that I have been using? Not trying to start oil war, just interested in your opinion if that's too heavy for the Trail.

I agree with m in sc. The trail, even in stock form, runs hot. Take it easy on cold mornings and when first starting with the heavier oils. Once warm, they will do very well to protect the engine.

 

[QuantiQualification]

Excellent video. Subscribed. Speaking of 300V, my Trail has been the perfect bike to use up a shelf full of partial bottles of 10W-30 bike oil. I'm getting close to just 300V and Maxima4 15W-50 left. 300V 10w-50 been working well?

Thanks for subscribing! Really helps out the channel. I have always liked the Motul oils. The 10w-50 is great with an excellent range.