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In a risk/reward assessment there is VERY little to gain by pulling that, only negatives if you ever go off pavement. I however live in the western forests and we have pretty good fires every summer... maybe you are in the south and everything is moist year aroundI also took out the screen on the spark arrester.
In a risk/reward assessment there is VERY little to gain by pulling that, only negatives if you ever go off pavement. I however live in the western forests and we have pretty good fires every summer... maybe you are in the south and everything is moist year around
The 124cc stamp is nice. Keeps the the busybody's away, and when you smoke someone you can claim its still 124cc. lolthats currently what im running piston/cyl wise, the piston is a better design vs the takegawa.... which really surprises me. I checked mine and it was spot on out of the box, got lucky. i guess they have tightened up their QC over the past few yrs. as a side note, the yuminashi cyl is a re-sleeved oem one, but it still retains the '124cc' stamp for those that live in countries with a stricter modification inspection, this may be useful.
Getting ready to install my 143 Yuminashi. Having a very difficult time getting the alternator rotor nut loose?!? Not certain that it is not a reverse thread. Can anyone confirm if this is standard, right-tighty thread or reverse thread. I'll post up some pics of my build in a separate thread once it is complete.this is a few pics from installing the takegawa 143cc cylinder. I also updated the cam chain tensioner with a koso unit, and installed a pcx150 honda injector at same time. wasn't bad. about 4 hours.
prior to this, already installed a TB cam and an efie fuel management device, and de-catted stock pipe and made a new free-er flowing head-pipe. Pulling alternator rotor requires the correct puller which i already had. everything here can be purchased through hard racing, except the efie unit. Only reason i used that was an adjustable ecm isnt availabel fro the CT125's as of yet as they are different than the cubs, groms, and monkeys as of 10-2021.
stock chain tensioner:
hole with copper washer is oil galley bolt for tensioner. this needs to be primed back up upon reinstall for auto tensioner,
koso chain tensioner and idler installed:
stock cyl to left:
stock piston to left.
could serve bean dip out of that bowl.
and new piston in. rest is just stock bolt in stuff.
Thanks much. Already solved. Yuminashi 143 kit in with cam, injector and Yosh exhaust. I'm planning to do a write up soon.sorry, just saw this. regular thread. air impact gun helps.