Going tubeless, i hope

[bryanchurch06]

Ok please forgive the non technical post about this subject, I am learning as I go. Today I decided to install my much debated outex front wheel kit.
Step 1 remove front wheel
2 I used the ty wrap method to remove the tire and tube, I only needed to spoon the last 1/4 of the tire, if the tire had been warmer I may have gotten it without spoons
3 clean rim with acetone and let dry
4 apply dots on spoke nipple
5 apply tape and smooth with fingers and a teaspoon
6 apply outer tape cover and smooth everything again
7 install valve stem
8 use same method to install tire and inflate tire to set bead
9 check for leaks, good so far!
10 wait overnight and check again for leaks, install on bike and go for a ride
Entire project took 2 1/2 hours which isn't bad for me. Thanks for reading this and enjoy the pics, happy Easter

 

[bryanchurch06]

Extra pics
I used to tires spoons 8inch ones
And bead paste and a bag of 11in harbor freight ty wraps, also the outex kit for the 125 I ordered from webike, I plan on doing the rear with 3m or gorilla tape this week. Same process as the front.

 

[Kritou]

Had you considered using tubes to go tubeless? Seriously …

 

[bryanchurch06]

Had you considered using tubes to go tubeless? Seriously …

I have actually, I ordered 2 14in tubes to play with at some point, the only downside I see is needing a new tube each time you switch tires I think. I may be wrong about that

 

[Kritou]

I have actually, I ordered 2 14in tubes to play with at some point, the only downside I see is needing a new tube each time you switch tires I think. I may be wrong about that

Yes, that is the only con I can think of. There may be a couple of workarounds to mitigate it tho’. One might be to reduce the size of your 17” tubes by cutting then overlapping and glueing the ends to produce a smaller tube (Superglue works well with butyl rubber tubes I'm told). Another is perhaps to reduce the excess to be trimmed off initially by having the tube lie deeper in the well while refitting the tyre so that there is enough spare to be manipulated a second time

My local tyre fitter had a selection of used tubes that had been punctured. Several of them looked as though they would do the job as the wound site was in an area that would be trimmed off anyway during the ‘ghetto’ conversion. This is what I will try when/if change tyres. In the meantime, one year and several hundred miles on, the conversion is working just fine for me and I'm a little surprised that no-one has cottoned on to this commercially …

 

[TrailBoss]

Is there any validity to these rims not being the right type to be tubeless? There are posts here from a while back where it was stated that these rims did not have the right bead hook on them or something (could search for it...).

 

[bryanchurch06]

Yes, that is the only con I can think of. There may be a couple of workarounds to mitigate it tho’. One might be to reduce the size of your 17” tubes by cutting then overlapping and glueing the ends to produce a smaller tube (Superglue works well with butyl rubber tubes I'm told). Another is perhaps to reduce the excess to be trimmed off initially by having the tube lie deeper in the well while refitting the tyre so that there is enough spare to be manipulated a second time

My local tyre fitter had a selection of used tubes that had been punctured. Several of them looked as though they would do the job as the wound site was in an area that would be trimmed off anyway during the ‘ghetto’ conversion. This is what I will try when/if change tyres. In the meantime, one year and several hundred miles on, the conversion is working just fine for me and I'm a little surprised that no-one has cottoned on to this commercially …

I decided that using the tape kinda gives me a base layer, so I can run it with just the tape or use original tubes or other methods to stay tubeless.

 

[bryanchurch06]

Is there any validity to these rims not being the right type to be tubeless? There are posts here from a while back where it was stated that these rims did not have the right bead hook on them or something (could search for it...).

I've read that as well, I suppose it use at your own risk kinda thing. People have posted tubeless conversion for the trail without issue so far. To be honest I was surprised how easy it was to break the bead on these tires, I think if you have a complete blowout with complete loss of pressure while riding the tire is coming off the rim tube or not IMHO.

 

[bryanchurch06]

I installed the tire today it held 25pds all night, went for a short ride and everything was fine. I'm tackling the rear tomorrow and this is the tape I'm using.

 

[bryanchurch06]

Btw I used the Quinn torque wrench adapter I posted several weeks ago in tools, worked perfectly although I could have used a longer ratchet, hitting 44pds with a short ratchet was tough

 

[bryanchurch06]

Rear tire went a lot quicker even though it was harder to get off bike, tape was way easier to apply also. I have the tire aired up and will install tomorrow.

 

[dmonkey]

I've read that as well, I suppose it use at your own risk kinda thing. People have posted tubeless conversion for the trail without issue so far. To be honest I was surprised how easy it was to break the bead on these tires, I think if you have a complete blowout with complete loss of pressure while riding the tire is coming off the rim tube or not IMHO.

Easy enough to test, drop the PSI to a reasonable offroad pressure and squeeze the sidewall of the tire nearest the bead of the tire when it's mounted or lean your foot into it there.

 

[bryanchurch06]

Had you considered using tubes to go tubeless? Seriously …

Btw what size tubes did you use, I ordered some 14x17x275 to try, the videos I watched said the tubes needed to stretch and fit tight on the rim

 

[Kritou]

Btw what size tubes did you use, I ordered some 14x17x275 to try, the videos I watched said the tubes needed to stretch and fit tight on the rim

I used 15” tubes (and keep one of the originals in my top box!)

 

[TrailBoss]

Rear tire went a lot quicker even though it was harder to get off bike, tape was way easier to apply also. I have the tire aired up and will install tomorrow.

Did you bother trying to apply a sealant to each spoke nipple or did you just go with the Gorilla tape?

 

[bryanchurch06]

Did you bother trying to apply a sealant to each spoke nipple or did you just go with the Gorilla tape?

Just gorilla tape, 2 layers seems to be holding air for now, I had a leak at 1 nipple I had to patch I think I was to aggressive with the spoon and dented the tape.

 

[Kritou]

With the rear tyre, what width Gorilla tape did you use, why did you feel it necessary to use two layers and what did you do about the valve? Do you have any photos of the G tape in situ before mounting the tyre?

 

[bryanchurch06]

I used the empty cardboard roll from the outex tape to score and cut a strip of gorilla tape the same size, I doubled the layers because I did not have the hard plastic layer to protect the tape as outex uses, not sure it matters either as the gorilla tape was thicker with more sealant on it. The valve them was from napa 8mm motorcycle stem

 

[Kritou]

I used the empty cardboard roll from the outex tape to score and cut a strip of gorilla tape the same size, I doubled the layers because I did not have the hard plastic layer to protect the tape as outex uses, not sure it matters either as the gorilla tape was thicker with more sealant on it. The valve them was from napa 8mm motorcycle stem

So what was the final width of the tape, do you think a wider piece could be installed and still get smooth adhesion with no crinkles or folds that would allow air to seep out?

Could you describe in detail the fitting of the valve and how/where you installed the supplied nuts?

You previously mentioned bead paste - what was this?

 

[bryanchurch06]

Width of tape 1in, wider not really necessary, installed valve with both nuts outside rim so rubber gasket would seal, bead paste is a slick paste you apply to tire to help spooning and sealing the beads, btw installation or the rear tire with one person is a real pain