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Going tubeless, i hope

Kritou

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Sorry for all the questions but this has been a most informative post. Please keep us updated - thank you
 

bryanchurch06

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No worries, I wish I was more technical with my info but this working on motorcycle stuff is new to me, Like you I do a lot of research and ask a lot of questions. Sorry I didn't take more pics but it was the end of the day and I just wanted to be done.
 

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bryanchurch06

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I put 100 miles on the tires today seems to be holding up well, can't tell a difference in the tires without tubes
 

SneakyDingo

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I used the ty wrap method to remove the tire and tube
So I guess we can say that this method for mounting the tire is... TIED AND TESTED NOW?! **laughs in dad joke**

Nice job with documenting it and sharing. The rear tire was annoying because of the brake caliper right?
 

bryanchurch06

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bryanchurch06

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Update, things I've learned about this install.
Front tire outex no issues at all, tape was a little harder to install without wrinkles just take your time, spend as much time as needed pressing the tape to seat and force as much air as possible out the nipples, the more you do the better. Plastic protector seems to work well in protecting the tape.
Rear wheel gorilla tape, 2 minor issues, after installing the tire I had a leaking nipple I think I damaged the tape with tire iron, one of the disadvantages of not having the hard plastic layer outex uses, it was an easy fix just break bead push tire to the side and apply small tape patch, small tire patch may work to? 2nd issue was a minor leak I couldn't find it went away after first ride and no problem since.
Cost front tire about 80 with shipping I think. Rear tire less than 10 if I count tape used from roll still enough tape left on roll for 2 more tire at least. Tape was 12.97 at Walmart. Valve stem 6.00
Installation process was really easy, the only difficulty I had was putting rear tire back on definitely would have been easier with 2 people, way to many holes to line up and the brake caliper falls off easily. Would I do it again? Definitely I feel much better about riding long distance and plugging the tire vs patching tubes.
 

Kritou

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So it now appears there are two viable, inexpensive and d.i.y ways of converting the CT’s tyres to tubeless - Gorrilla tape and the ‘ghetto’ (or split tube approach)

From your experience it seems that softening the tyre with heat could make this a ’spoonless’ operation using just one’s knees and weight to remount the tyre, even with it zip tied. I have also heard of warming the tyre in a black plastic sack left in the sun or filled with air from the wife’s hair dryer! Not sure if I’m that brave!

Guess all we have to discuss now is the favoured plugging technique…
 

SneakyDingo

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What do you think about adding a layer of 3m vinyl over the tape once it's applied? I have some laying around and that stuff is durable and easy to apply.
I expect that would work just fine as long as it doesn't come off with heat.

I know for my tubeless bicycle, the official expensive Stans (IIRC) is the branded version of the green "Powder Coating Silicone Adhesive High Temperature Tape, 2 mil" tape (I've had some of that in my bicycle for 2 years now and it's still fine). It's generally used because it won't react with either heat or sealant added to the tire. With the fatbiking crowd, before official kits were available two general problems would pop up: over time the tape either becomes brittle or changes shape (resulting in either cracking over the spokes) or the shape causes it to no longer adhere. Gorilla tape has the reputation of working but losing air more quickly, since it's a cloth based tape (the drying out problem).
 

bryanchurch06

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The gorilla tape I used had a much thicker glue/sealant layer than the outex, I don't think it'll dry out inside the tire but I may be wrong.
 

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bryanchurch06

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I also purchased a bottle of Sahara tire sealant I'm going to use 4oz per tire when I put knobbys on in NM, the thing about the tape is if needed I can throw a tube in if I have a complete tape failure, it doesn't modify the rim so tubes cannot be installed if desired.
 

bryanchurch06

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Do you mean the tire on the rim or the wheel on the bike?? If wheel on the bike then the chance to plug the tire instead of swapping tubes would be great!

Thx
Putting the wheel back on bike, tire on rim was easy front and back
 

dmonkey

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I use the toe of my boot to hold the wheel up for that, but still a pain. Best I've seen was someone in Oatman, Arizona using a literal pick axe to hoist their rear wheel into place on a shaft drive BMW.
 

TrailBoss

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I use the toe of my boot to hold the wheel up for that, but still a pain. Best I've seen was someone in Oatman, Arizona using a literal pick axe to hoist their rear wheel into place on a shaft drive BMW.
Must have been an older BMW? The single-sided swingarm jobbies (like my Tiger Explorer) are awesome, I can have the tire off or on in about 2 minutes. Makes me wonder why no manufacturer has ever gone the "lefty" route on a motorcycle. If you have no idea what I'm referring to: https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/gear/components/suspension/lefty-ocho
 

bryanchurch06

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Must have been an older BMW? The single-sided swingarm jobbies (like my Tiger Explorer) are awesome, I can have the tire off or on in about 2 minutes. Makes me wonder why no manufacturer has ever gone the "lefty" route on a motorcycle. If you have no idea what I'm referring to: https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/gear/components/suspension/lefty-ocho
I had a 2004 R1100S, one of my all time favorite bikes, stupid expensive to take to the dealership for maintenance though. Still an awesome bike to ride and you are right about the swing arm I used to remove the tire and take it for tire changes.
 

dmonkey

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Must have been an older BMW?
Yes, IIRC it was a BMW R60.

The single-sided swingarm jobbies (like my Tiger Explorer) are awesome, I can have the tire off or on in about 2 minutes. Makes me wonder why no manufacturer has ever gone the "lefty" route on a motorcycle. If you have no idea what I'm referring to: https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/gear/components/suspension/lefty-ocho
Looking at those Lefty Ocho forks I'd say cost is likely one barrier. For motorcycles the weight and stronger forces might also be an issue, it would have to be a beefy fork setup to not twist and that could result in a rigid feel. Maybe something for a premium design bike, I could see a company like Bimota giving it a try.

Single sided hub-center steering exists in the 3-wheeled world of sidecar rigs. They're complicated, expensive, and not very common since simpler and more affordable "light" steering solutions became available when modern trikes gained popularity. https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/ruko-rig.1518601/

I guess the Yamaha Niken kind of has the single sided forks, just 2 sets of them and two front wheels. That's a wild bike. A lot of weight up front.
 

AZ7000'

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For motorcycles the weight and stronger forces might also be an issue, it would have to be a beefy fork setup to not twist and that could result in a rigid feel. Maybe something for a premium design bike, I could see a company like Bimota giving it a try.
I had a 2003 Lefty, 88 needle bearings, 22 x 4 sides, a square sliding in a square, absolutely no twisting and no binding when the travel is used while turning, braking, etc. Can you say 99% of all 4wheel vehicles ever? I cant think of higher forces on a 250-700# bike ever being greater than a car?? It is and was a pretty sweet system, just mostly new and different, and maybe better...
 
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