Loud pop noise when shifting

[Aaron SG]

Wondering if anyone's heard this before... getting a loud metallic noise when shifting gears. Gears shift smooth with no issues, no engine noises, just a good hearty *POP* sound when shifting between gears. Fluids are good, possibly a bad spring ?

 

[dmonkey]

I don't know exactly what's happening that makes that sound with the shift mechanism, but after having the side of the case off mine it did that before I re-adjusted the auto clutch. It is a very quick job, under 5 minutes. I recommend you give that a try and see if it resolves the issue.
Here's a video walking through it:

 

[m in sc]

do not shift the transmission without it running or at least moving the rear wheel.. , you'll bend a shift fork or damage a gear. It probably the shift drum snapping back because it cant fully engage, or one of the dogs on the gears snapping into place. a bad spring will leave it hanging (the lever) up or down.

 

[woops]

Yup mine is doing that also. The clutch adjustment sounds like a good place to start. I have 670 miles on the bike. I am wondering if I should take the bike to a Honda dealer because it is still under the warranty? Mine is intermittent but it continues once it starts. When I ride the next day it does not start doing it until about 10 miles into the ride.I hate to void the warraty by wrenching on the bike.

 

[dmonkey]

Whatever you're comfortable with. I'd give the clutch adjustment a try at home, not much to mess up there and if you get it adjusted wrong you'll know and can just try again.

 

[AZ7000']

Honda dealer because it is still under the warranty?

My betting money is they will use the "wear item" or some other way to deny you warranty work, they will be happy to charge you to fix it though...

Let us know!

 

[woops]

Thanks for the response. I will let you how it goes.

 

[m in sc]

If you do that to my cb1100 it does the same thing, or really any of the 20 + hondas ive owned over the years.. I mean take it in to satisfy your curiosity... but my bet is there is nothing wrong with it, honda transmissions are over built.. but also a bit clunky over all. Id bet a dozen donuts they say:
1: that's normal
2: don't shift it without it moving or running.

 

[woops]

I made a clutch adjustment and did not get the loud pop noise when shifting but did not get the adjustment spot on so I will revisit the adjustment, I am disappointed in the service manual; I could not find a description of the procedure for making the adjustment in it. I resorted to u tube for the procedure.

 

[dmonkey]

The Trail125A Service Manual isn't much use beyond parts diagrams, specs, and measurements.
The Honda Common Service Manual details the clutch adjustment, but it is very brief.

 

[woops]

Ok I revisited the adjustment of the clutch and got correct 1/8 turn . Test ride indicates very good shifting and no loud popping sound . Thanks for the input everyone cause I need all the help I can get. Case closed. WOOPS over and out.

 

[SneakyDingo]

The Trail125A Service Manual isn't much use beyond parts diagrams, specs, and measurements.
The Honda Common Service Manual details the clutch adjustment, but it is very brief.

I don't know how much more they could have added to be honest. The procedure is super simple, under 60s once I find the culprit who moved my wrenches.

 

[dmonkey]

I agree the steps are simple, I'm just used to engineers writing QA test criteria. "Check the operation of the clutch after adjustment." isn't very specific for semi-automatic shifting on a bike with two clutch assemblies. Something else they could have included is that if you don't loosen the lock nut far enough out before making the adjustment, turning the adjust bolt while holding the lock nut in place can cause the two to snug up on each other creating resistance as a point other than the one you're looking for.

 

[SneakyDingo]

As an engineer in QA for my day job...

 

[Aaron SG]

The clutch adjustment did the trick! For me the issue started occurring while riding, so it was a bit of a concern.

Also, thanks for the information on not shifting while stationary or not running. I need all the wisdom I can get!

 

[Allhatnocattle]

do not shift the transmission without it running or at least moving the rear wheel.. , you'll bend a shift fork or damage a gear. It probably the shift drum snapping back because it cant fully engage, or one of the dogs on the gears snapping into place. a bad spring will leave it hanging (the lever) up or down.

This would have been great information to know when I bought the bike The instructions for using this weird transmission are super vague in the owners manual. I sometimes downshift while at a red light. Now when I try to shift from 1st to 2nd sometimes it feels like it's stuck. Did i break something?

 

[m in sc]

probably need to adjust the clutch as shown above. hopefully not, they are pretty tough, but if you do it for years on end then yes, it will bend a shift fork. the transmission itself is pretty standard, the clutch is standard, the way it actuates the clutch is the only real weird part TBH.

 

[Allhatnocattle]

probably need to adjust the clutch as shown above. hopefully not, they are pretty tough, but if you do it for years on end then yes, it will bend a shift fork. the transmission itself is pretty standard, the clutch is standard, the way it actuates the clutch is the only real weird part TBH.

Phewww thats a relief to hear. Thank you for saving me a trip to the stealership I will have a beer in the garage in your honor later when I do the clutch adjustment.

 

[Allhatnocattle]

The Trail125A Service Manual isn't much use beyond parts diagrams, specs, and measurements.
The Honda Common Service Manual details the clutch adjustment, but it is very brief.
View attachment 2121

Do we think it voids the warranty for me to DIY this?

 

[Carolina Vagabond]

Do we think it voids the warranty for me to DIY this?

Don’t ask, Don’t Tell....or as one of my former colleagues use to say when they tore something up “ I didn’t do ‘nuffin”.
All jokes aside, It’s a simple and required part of the maintenance. Shouldn’t void anything and you’ll know if you did it wrong and just go back and try it again. Mine came from the factory needing adjustment within 30 miles. No problems since.