Loud pop noise when shifting

[Allhatnocattle]

Did the clutch adjustment just now, and first off, IT WORKED. No more getting stuck shifting from 1st to 2nd. But I will say, my tuning screw did not rotate a full rotation clockwise... it did maybe a half or a third and met resistance... So I just went back all the way counterclockwise and did a 1/8th from there. Seems to be shifting like butter now. We will see how it goes....

 

[dmonkey]

Do we think it voids the warranty for me to DIY this?

In the USA it does not void the warranty thanks to the Moss Magnuson Warranty Act, but if you were to cause damage with DIYing it then the warranty would not cover that damage. You should still document that the maintenance was performed if you do it yourself.

 

[Allhatnocattle]

After doing the adjustment, it still seems to happen on the first shift of the ride. Sometimes the second also. But then after the engine is warmed up a bit it doesn't. I hope I didn't damage something while learning to use this transmission the first day or two.... I also let my friend ride it right after I bought it and not sure if he shifted weird not being used to the 4 up pattern... I will have the dealer check it out when its time for the first service.

 

[SneakyDingo]

It's pretty common to get an engine pop when the engine is cold on this bike. Could that be it? The Groms and Monkey owners all reported it, probably first 2-3 minutes of running, especially if you blip the throttle.

My first few minutes on the bike consists of rolling it out, starting it, and then closing gates, etc. while it warms up slightly. We're talking maybe 30-60s. After that I roll out very gently for the first 2-3 minutes of operation.

• To stop engine pops. This is partly mental; I don't particularly feel like they're bad, but to me the pop is a noise of a poorly calibrated engine system, so I operate it gently and avoid them.
• Tradition/mechanical advantage - I learned to ride on carbureted bikes and they stalled less often when they were warmed slightly before riding. Additionally, the oil drains when it isn't being pumped around, so this is giving it a chance to coat all the important services before I start riding it.
• Probably an old wive's tale - Dad used to say the engine oil was chopped up a bit harder when cold, but I reckon 1) that doesn't matter on this bike with the frequent oil changes and 2) if it ever was a thing, modern oils are probably good enough now we don't have to deal with that.
• Mostly because of mentality - I remind myself of all the simple practices and do a quick welfare check as I roll out. Does the bike need any specific servicing that I should do before I leave? Am I tired? Is my balance off? Did I leave anything behind? Does anything feel weird on the bike? It's easier to push the bike back to the garage if it's not very far from your home, and it's easier not to ride than it is to recover after making a bad decision.
• A reminder that if I'm only doing 2-3 minute trips on the motorcycle, I have bicycles that are a better choice for that.

(Funny side note: but sometimes I do need to hop off and do something before I get back on again. I very, very frequently will use the kickstarter on the bike the second time I start it.)

 

[Allhatnocattle]

It's pretty common to get an engine pop when the engine is cold on this bike. Could that be it? The Groms and Monkey owners all reported it, probably first 2-3 minutes of running, especially if you blip the throttle.

My first few minutes on the bike consists of rolling it out, starting it, and then closing gates, etc. while it warms up slightly. We're talking maybe 30-60s. After that I roll out very gently for the first 2-3 minutes of operation.

• To stop engine pops. This is partly mental; I don't particularly feel like they're bad, but to me the pop is a noise of a poorly calibrated engine system, so I operate it gently and avoid them.
• Tradition/mechanical advantage - I learned to ride on carbureted bikes and they stalled less often when they were warmed slightly before riding. Additionally, the oil drains when it isn't being pumped around, so this is giving it a chance to coat all the important services before I start riding it.
• Probably an old wive's tale - Dad used to say the engine oil was chopped up a bit harder when cold, but I reckon 1) that doesn't matter on this bike with the frequent oil changes and 2) if it ever was a thing, modern oils are probably good enough now we don't have to deal with that.
• Mostly because of mentality - I remind myself of all the simple practices and do a quick welfare check as I roll out. Does the bike need any specific servicing that I should do before I leave? Am I tired? Is my balance off? Did I leave anything behind? Does anything feel weird on the bike? It's easier to push the bike back to the garage if it's not very far from your home, and it's easier not to ride than it is to recover after making a bad decision.
• A reminder that if I'm only doing 2-3 minute trips on the motorcycle, I have bicycles that are a better choice for that.

(Funny side note: but sometimes I do need to hop off and do something before I get back on again. I very, very frequently will use the kickstarter on the bike the second time I start it.)

I should clarify that meant that my shifter is getting stuck between 1st and 2nd gear and that I don't actually hear a pop. It just wont shift easily until I give it quite a bit of force. I should prob take my issue to a different thread to avoid confusion lol.

 

[m in sc]

exhaust 'pop' : its just cold air rushing into the exhaust colliding with the warmer exhaust . My wifes super cub does it, as does my cb1100 after its fired up but the exhaust isnt fully up to temp. no big deal.

 

[bobbyra1]

Got mine new sounds fine for 19 miles put it away for 2 months and it started the same thing.

 

[AZ7000']

Fwiw, I run my ct 90 to work, 0.5 mile so and 3 min or so each way. This happens from 15-65 degrees in the morning. She starts first kick most mornings. The 125 definitely pops on colder mornings, less when warm.
They both live in the driveway, last snow of the season should be tonight!

 

[Carolina Vagabond]

I should clarify that meant that my shifter is getting stuck between 1st and 2nd gear and that I don't actually hear a pop. It just wont shift easily until I give it quite a bit of force. I should prob take my issue to a different thread to avoid confusion lol.

I understand what you’re dealing with. I think I did the clutch adjustment a couple of times before I hit the sweet spot and got rid of that big “clunk” between 1st and 2nd. I highly doubt you have caused any damage as these bikes are over built in the transmission dept. Look at all the first time riders buying them. Honda designed it to be durable enough that even an idiot like me would have a hard time destroying it. I would suggest trying the adjustment again a time or two and ride the snot out of it. I think it’ll work out for you. Just have faith in the machine. If, by chance, the shifting issues continue then I’d take it to a dealer/shop and have them check it out.

 

[ChiefPockets]

Did i break something?

Most likely no. IMO this warning should not have been shared in giant bold red font. This transmission is not that dissimilar to any motorcycle's transmission – all transmissions are difficult to shift when the engine or wheel aren't turning... but you're not going to break anything trying unless you REALLY force things. You're just going to get lots of failed shifts and maybe discover a false neutral.

 

[Bullwinkle]

Mine came out of the factory with a clunky first to second shift.
With just 50+ miles on it so far I have decided to do an adjustment tomorrow.

 

[Bullwinkle]

At first I thought that installing a G Kraft shift support would take care of the clunky shifting but it didn’t change anything.
Now that I adjusted the clutch I have seen an improvement. I will still mess with it a little more to see if I can fine tune it.

 

[m in sc]

the support only takes some flex out of the shaft.

 

[eastema]

Today, mine started the same funny feeling in the shifter with popping noise. 1600 miles on the odometer, I did another adjustment to the clutch, and all is fine. Does anyone know mechanically, what this is actually doing inside, when I adjust the screw?

 

[dmonkey]

This video shows a CT90 but it's the same concept, you're adjusting the shifting clutch so that it is in a fully engaged position at rest. It needs adjustment over time because the clutch plates wear.

 

[eastema]

Thank you for the video, now I get it.

 

[SgtAlf]

Ok I revisited the adjustment of the clutch and got correct 1/8 turn . Test ride indicates very good shifting and no loud popping sound . Thanks for the input everyone cause I need all the help I can get. Case closed. WOOPS over and out.

It's either "over" or "out" never both at the same time. WOOPS over, or WOOPS - OUT!

 

[Shoot870p]

And Roger and Wilco while we are at it.

 

[meuhey]

I am getting a clunk noise around the front sprocket/ clutch area, it only happens when I start spinning the rear wheel forward or reverse... Wondering if this is normal operation?

 

[Just_Jack]

850 miles in on my 2023 and I’m now getting the same hollow metallic “pop” when I shift up or down.

Turns out I forgot that the clutch was supposed to be adjusted at the 600 mile mark so I did that this evening and it seems to have solved the problem. Yay for Honda making the process so simple!