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USA Postie Coast to Coastie

dmonkey

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2023.09.13
Cape Girardeau, MO to Branson, MO.

The ride this morning started out boring, dangerously boring. I have acclimated enough to rolling 45-55 mph all day that those speeds feel like walking pace on the bike and the road was not exciting enough to hold my attention. Luckily I don't have a defined route to follow, just a place to start and stop each day, sometimes with a lunch plan in the middle. Being on a Honda *Trail* I decided to see what the gravel back roads in this area of Missouri had to offer. I was not disappointed! There were some very steep grades, large loose gravel, and two oncoming pickup trucks on a path maybe one and a half cars wide in the flat areas. My boredom was cured with just about 5 miles of gravel riding.
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Luckily back on paved roads the route started to get interesting again passing through the Mark Twain National Forest. The Ozark Mountains were welcoming with rolling hills, woods, exposed rock faces and bluffs, rivers, and great bridges.

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Branson, Missouri had some very steep roads in town that reminded me of my recent ride through Hannibal, Missouri last month, except Branson is very touristy in an amusement park kind of way.
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Lodging for the night was at Chateau on the Lake, quite a fancy place for a bunch of dirty bikers.
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I rode back into town and had dinner at Uptown Cafe, the Henry J taxi cab out front drew me right in.
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My dad's JD has reproduction fuel and oil saddle tanks I ordered from W&W Cycles out of Germany, but like most of the reproduction parts for this era of Harleys they are not received as a finished product. They needed to be sealed, drilled for mounting, notched for the hinge for the seat t-bracket, some threads cleaned up, and painted. My dad cut the notch for the seat bracket after sealing the tanks with Red-Kote. There is a fuel leak we think was caused by this, but it's near the top of the reserve tank. This means it has only been a problem when the reserve tank is full, so the simple solution is to not fill it past where it starts leaking. Unfortunately the bike was parked at a gas stop with both fuel petcocks open, so the main tank that had just been filled up equalized to the reserve tank and fuel poured out the leak, ran down the bike, and then seeped through the gasket on the magneto and flooded it out. Luckily my dad was equipped to pull the primary cover to get access to the magneto and then pull its cover to drain and air it out, so the JD got all of its miles in today.

Our friend Ben with the Ner-A-Car was less fortunate. When he went to start the bike after a stop it had lost compression. From what can be seen without taking the top end off the piston looked fine. He will skip tomorrow's riding, trailer it to our next stop, and troubleshoot it further tomorrow.

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dmonkey

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2023.09.14
Branson, MO to Augusta, KS

For this morning's pre-ride inspection I had a great view of Table Rock Lake in the distance.
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Did I mention how fancy this hotel was? It had indoor waterfalls, bridges, a koi pond, and birds - not wild birds that found their way indoors, but caged birds.
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Cartage, Kansas
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Girard, Kansas
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Altoona, Kansas
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There are only so many ways to traverse this area of Kansas, so the rider route and support route overlap and I encountered cannonball riders and crew members at gas stops, but it's against the rules to interact with the riders asking the route so I guess that means nobody is holding gas station doors open for them!

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Our last stop before tonight's hotel was a dinner hosted by Kelly Modlin, a Cannonball rider from previous years, at his Twisted Oz Motorcycle Museum in Augusta, KS.

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I will do a museum post later when I have more time to go through photos. Tonight's hotel is a two night stay as 9/15 is a day off. People are pulling engines from bikes and plan on doing larger maintenance and repair work during this time off from riding.

Some of the wrenching I'm looking forward to seeing and learning from is a teardown of Alex's Indian single that popped a valve and then holed the piston, work on the oddball Ner-A--Car, and Doc will be pulling the engine on his HD model J to decarbon the cylinders among other work.
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We are going to pull the left side fuel tank from my dad's JD and see what can be done about the fuel leak near the top of the tank, later on the route in Utah it will be around 100 miles between gas stops so being able to fill the reserve tank would be ideal, though a spare fuel can is being carried in the top box. PXL_20230915_000259822.jpg

The worst riding today was that everyone ended up on US-400 with fast moving truck traffic and bad drivers.
 

RedRyder

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Western NY
I am absolutely amazed by this journey! Most impressive is the mechanical knowledge being displayed. Way, way over my head, but fascinating nonetheless. I'm looking forward to the rest of the installments!
 

dmonkey

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2023.09.14 part 2
Tomorrow being a 0 mile day, some teams are getting an early start on maintenance and repairs so there's time to get work done and test the results.

Brought out the serious business tool kit for working on the Honda Trail.
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Just kidding, all it needed was the usual topping off of oil, chain clean and lube, and chain tension adjustment.

Stunt rider Keith Kardell's JD, which is aptly named Tempermental Judy, broke a valve and bent a rod so the engine is out for a major overhaul and the bike may be getting new wheels built as well.
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Alex was 30 miles out from Twisted Oz when he heard a "dink! dink!" sound so he disengaged the clutch and coasted his Indian single to a stop. Turns out the head popped off a valve and then bounced around between the piston, cylinder wall, and head.
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He pulled the motor and split the cases to clean out debris and check the crankshaft and connecting rod for damage. He's got enough spare parts that he should be able to piece the motor back together, might just need a new valve, piston, and a hone on the cylinder wall to help the rings seat now that they're scored up.
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Doc is decarboning his Harley Model J engine, chipping carbon off the top of the jug's combustion chamber and honing the cylinders. There is a shelf in the stock combustion chamber where carbon can build up and make contact with the piston, I believe Doc machined the pistons he is running, likely from a Harley flathead, to give more clearance there.
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Others run aftermarket "JD Jugs" cast in Australia that have been reengineered a bit and do not have the same shelf issue, and can be run with domed pistons. That's what we're running on my dad's JD under the advice of Pocket Valve Performance Cycle who built the top end. Many parts decisions are made based on what is available and spares can be had of.

On the other side of that coin, these folks from Western Germany are running their 1913 Indian Big Twin as close to stock and original as possible at the compromise of safety, convenience, and reliability. A museum piece in an endurance event. Different people with different goals, and I'm glad not everyone thinks the same. It makes for a very special event.
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The Italians from Patina Garage have been breaking spokes and will be rebuilding some of their wheels when parts arrive tomorrow.
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dmonkey

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2023.09.15
Day off in Wichita, KS

Did a risky little ride of picking up some drinks, food, and hardware with a full fountain drink in the top box on the Trail because the other two bottle holders on the crash bars were also used for drinks. Luckily with double lids it didn't spill.

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We pulled the left side reserve gas & oil combination saddle tank from the JD and tracked the leak down thanks to some bubbling in the paint.
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Brian with the Henderson says that no sharp edges or right angles is fuel tank design 101, they are prone to failure from stress and vibration which there's plenty of on cross country rides.

Luckily Alex is literally a professional at this type of repair and brought his tools to help other riders repair leaking tanks, and earlier in the event he fixed the radiator on the water-cooled Scott Flying Squirrel. It seemed that this soldered tank was not soldered at the top seam. He flushed out some contamination, fluxed it, and then sealed it with 50/50 solder applied with a flame heated iron.
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Alex's Indian single is going back together and the bottom end is in good shape.

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The head is a bit beat up from the valve bouncing around and creating hot spots but he's going to run it, also going to try running the cylinder with a different piston in it since the other piston became vented :LOL:
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The master link on the primary chain of a Harley-Davidson Model J had an interesting failure, breaking right in half, and luckily was caught and replaced before throwing the chain.
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Some of the bikes run Shinko trials tires just like are common on Postie bikes. The rears were about half worn at this somewhat of a halfway point, so a day off was a good time to do some preventative maintenance and preemptively replace them. Here you can see a design that was common for decades on Harley models, the rear fender is hinged for easy wheel removal. Something that would be really nifty on our Honda Trails where the hard plastic mud flap adds difficulty to sliding the rear wheel out.
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Phil rebuilding the front end on his JD.
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The Germans do not have spare pushrods for their 1913 Indian Big Twin and were concerned with the very real possibility of losing an intake pushrod, so they used some copper wire to try to retain them. It seems to be holding up surprisingly well considering the movement of the pushrods, though it's wearing the finish off of them. These pushrods and rockers are absolutely tiny. Indian later redesigned them to be larger and stronger.
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dmonkey

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2023.09.16
Wichita, KS to Garden City, KS

Cue Willie Nelson's "On The Road Again"

My Aerostich Ultralight Seat Saver saved the seat on the Honda from needing a drying after last night's rain. I wear an Aerostich R3 Lite suit while riding which has Gore-Tex for waterproofing, but even Gore-Tex can have you joining the Soggy Bottom Boys after sitting on a wet seat for long enough.
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There were parts of the day with no cars to be seen for miles, a really nice ride on two lane backroads through the Great Plains.
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Some flowers tempted me onto dirt roads, they turned out to be sandy mud roads anywhere that wasn't hard packed.
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The Hunter "Cub" wasn't the only animal out leaving tracks.
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There was a hosted lunch at TR Restorations in Pratt, KS. The owner of the motorcycle shop, Terry Richardson, is a Motorcycle Cannonball alumni. Some folks made use of the shop tools to do more work on their motorcycles, with the tire machine being especially handy.
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One of the sights of the day was these kinetic statues that move with the wind.
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There wasn't much to see at Boot Hill in Dodge City other than this locomotive.
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There was a City Fall Festival on Main Street in Garden City, KS so the motorcycles were on display there for a bit before turning in to the hotels.
 
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dmonkey

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2023.09.16 continued, Cannonball content


Main St. in downtown Garden City, KS
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The aluminum threads stripped off the plug for one of the access ports to the side valves on the Hungarians' Meray Jap engine. I watched as their mechanic hammered a flat blade screwdriver around the inner perimeter of the thread slowly pushing the aluminum remains out. I asked how he was going to get the debris out of the combustion chamber but there was a language barrier so I just got an explanation of that the aluminum threads broke. Maybe he picked them out or used a vacuum, maybe he just took the risk of running the motor and having the debris blow out the exhaust.
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My dad's JD lost a muffler today, but the exhaust was put together last minute and just uses lawn mower mufflers so a local tractor supply store had replacements in stock for just a few dollars. They just need to be cut open a bit to slide over the exhaust, and then drilled on the other side to open up the baffle.
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Gary's JD keeps stretching the primary chain, and to achieve the correct primary chain tension you then need to slide the transmission backwards, which means you need to adjust the shift linkage, and then you need to adjust the tension on the final drive chain which requires moving the rear axle back, so then you need to adjust the rear brake linkage. What an ordeal! The transmission on his bike has been moved frequently enough that one of the threads for it stripped, so here's his support crew laying the bike over to install a time-sert in place of the stripped thread.
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We are running a heavy duty chain on my dad's JD which hasn't stretched much at all. There unfortunately is not enough clearance between the primary and final drive chains at the transmission to run sealed chains, which was our first choice. Others have addressed the issue of chain stretch/wear by throwing more chain at it... literally just taking off the stretched chain and cutting a replacement chain from a roll of new bulk chain as needed. That's a lot of chain to haul arround in a support vehicle!


There were TWO car crashes in front of tonight's hotel. The first was as the motorcycles were arriving at the hotel from downtown, a pickup rear ended a mini van and I circled the block to enter rather than ride through the broken glass. I walked to dinner rather than riding, didn't want to have to navigate around the vehicles being towed. When I came back those vehicles were gone but there was an SUV that tried passing a semi truck that was set up for a wide right turn. I don't think their impatience paid off. Support and riders received texts that the local PD advised to lock everything up tonight.
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dmonkey

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2023.09.17
Garden City, KS to Colorado Springs, CO

Here's the JD with shiny new mufflers.
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Santa Fe Trail Ruts in Kansas. Pretty cool that there are wagon train ruts preserved for 150-200 years. Their journey was much slower than mine!
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Mural at Cousin Eddie's in Coolridge, KS. I didn't stop in to see the condition of their restrooms.
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Less than two months since my last trip, the Trail made it back to Colorado!
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Gas stops are quite the ordeal. There aren't many gas stations on some of the back roads so there will just be a dozen or so Cannonball motorcycles all fueling up, changing oil, and doing maintenance on their bikes at the same time.
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Why did the cow cross the road?
Because a rancher chased it there on a Honda Rancher ATV.
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The first half of the day was boring and hot, straight roads without turns for hours, bumps in the road keeping me awake, but nearing Colorado Springs and seeing the mountains in the distance regained my excitement knowing there'd be mountain riding again soon enough.

In Colorado Springs we visited the Rocky Mountain Motorcycle Museum. Will post more about the museum later. It's in an interesting location, second story of an office building downtown.

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The roads were extremely rough today, which resulted in the rear rack on my dad's JD breaking. As the rack pivoted backwards with the box attached to it and hit the tail light, he had a "yard sale" which is what they call it when things fly off someone's motorcycle. Luckily I think he was able to recover everything except a bag of chips and he had bungee cords to hold the broken rack in place for the rest of the day.
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At least two of the crews are carrying welders and my dad is a professional welder, but there wasn't a good way to build up material to reinforce the flat rolled steel rack where it broke so he decided to do a more temporary fix and add this to the list of things to work on later at home. A Snap-on 1/4" socket extension, duct tape, a hose clamp, and some zip-ties made for a suitable Cannonball fix. Others have mentioned breaking this style of rear rack multiple times before and either filling the hollow center with metal or scrapping the whole thing and making a rack from scratch.
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SneakyDingo

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I had a similar design rack snap the same way whole holding an eBike battery. The "permanent" solution ended up being somewhat similar - zip ties to hold things in place, braced against a chopstick fed through the rack. Stayed like that for 6 months until I scrapped the setup entirely, and honestly worked better than the original bolt on, rigid and fragile OEM equipment.
 

dmonkey

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Somewhere along the way moto photojournalist Olivier Touron took this photo of me battling my way past the windmills in Kansas like Don Quixote. It's an awesome feeling to have my photograph taken by someone who's work is published in so many American and international motorcycle magazines. I first met him last year and he took a few photos of me riding my Moto Guzzi on Route 66. He's one of the most approachable and nicest people you can meet on two wheels. Also a crazy skilled rider, as that's a requirement for the job of taking photos while piloting a motorcycle.

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dmonkey

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2023.09.18
Colorado Springs, CO to Montrose, CO

Today's Motorcycle Cannonball Run stage kicked off with the blast from a cannon being fired in downtown Colorado Springs as the green flag waved and Class 1 motorcycles departed toward the Pikes Peak area.

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Riders took Skyline Drive, a narrow one lane road that rides a mountain ridgeline with steep descent on each side, and then they crossed over the Royal Gorge on Royal Gorge Bridge which is the highest suspension bridge in America and is generally closed to motorist traffic. The Cannonball event organizers had arranged for the Cannonball riders to pay a toll in advance and receive a permit to cross the bridge on their motorcycles.

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Just a bunch of bikers fueling up for a morning mountain ride through San Isabel National Forest.
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It was a slow climb in 3rd gear up to the Continental Divide, I stuck to the right lane whenever there was a passing lane and only passed a few other motorcycles. Olivier Touron snapped another photo of me on the postie bike in front of the Monarch Pass summit sign. 11,312 ft is the highest elevation for this coast-to-coast trip, though parking in front of the visitor center is a few feet higher than at the road. I'm not sure where the measurement is to.
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View from the edge of the "Monarch at the Crest" visitor center & store parking lot where that sign is.
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The descent went much quicker, I followed a modern bagger flying down the mountain until we got stuck behind other traffic.
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Luckily I had missed snow on Monarch Pass other than in the distance and a few lumps left in the shaded shoulder of the road, but it got extremely foggy and started to rain as I passed Gunnison and approached where Gunnison River runs so wide it looks like a lake. Of course there was road construction right ahead! Ended up parked for over half an hour waiting for single-lane traffic. A few other motorcyclists got caught waiting and those not with the Cannonball Run mostly turned around. Event riders stopped their engines and some of them were invited (or invited themselves) into parked cars, trucks, and RVs to wait through the rain. I parked the Trail and waited patiently in my Aerostich space suit that mostly makes rain irrelevant. A few vehicles back I watched as one of the riders went through a series of stretches and yoga poses while waiting next to his parked motorcycle.
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The next stretch of road was missing. Torn up for the road improvements, it was washed out gravel and mud in the construction zone. There's surely going to be some antique motorcycles getting washed tonight! The Honda Trail will just have to wait for the next rain.PXL_20230918_215246691.jpg

The owner of Grass Roots BMW has been riding along and invited me to sit on his BMW R1200 GS. It surprised me as being a good fit even for my short height, though it is the factory lowered version. The Honda Trail has been doing great on this trip, the only place I'd seen him take the R1200 that my Trail couldn't follow was into the passing lane :LOL:
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dmonkey

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2023.09.19
Montrose, CO to Green River, UT

This morning started out with the first national park of the trip, Colorado National Monument!

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I would have liked to have detoured to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park yesterday, but decided against it as the weather was foggy and rainy at the time I would have made that detour. My most recent visit there was during wildfires and it was a bit of a disappointment to make the out-and-back detour only for it to be too smoky to see much of the canyon or the painted wall. It is absolutely worth the trip in good weather though. Anyway, Colorado National Monument did not disappoint in terms of great roads and great views from the road.

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Red rock landscapes bring me a lot of joy.

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CO-340 passing over paddlecrafts on the Colorado River in Fruita, CO
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Entering Utah on US-50
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Cisco, Utah! It didn't seem actively occupied as I passed through, but there's an art community that has brought some revival to this ghost town which is what can be seen on the horizon. It's a hard place to live and remote, so I imagine much of the activity is seasonal. I stopped at the one and only store, Buzzards Belly General Store, for some ice cream as one does on a hot day like this. Here's a Cadillac Coupe de Ville installation inspired by Cadillac Ranch.
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Some riding leaving Cisco


Castle Valley
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Second National Park of the trip and of the day, Arches National Park.
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After checking in to the hotel at the end of the day we walked to dinner and met Jim "Wheels", who rides this Hannigan Motorsports Gold Wing rig all over the country touring with his wife. The invention on the rear fender is a lift for loading and storing his wheelchair while he's riding.
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dmonkey

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2023.09.20
Green River, UT to Kanab, UT

It's no Ectomobile, but this Pontiac Bonneville ambulance caught my eye leaving Green River in the morning.
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I was only on i-70 for a short stretch, thank goodness, but the no services sign is still relevant. I think the longest fuel stretch of this 300 mile day was just over 100 miles. For peace of mind I carried 1L of spare fuel in an MSR bottle that fits into the water bottle holder I have mounted to the engine guard on the left side of the motorcycle.
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Joe, one of the Cannonball riders, had pulled off at the same spot as me and traded phones to take photos. He reminded me you've really got to stop and take in your surroundings to enjoy where you are in a place like this. Especially when you're on a motorcycle that you don't have to worry about stopping the engine on like my Trail or his "modern" Harley-Davidson VL! Some of the Cannonball riders avoid stopping their engines as much as possible, even keeping them running while refueling, out of fear that they might not easily start back up again.
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The first National Park for today was Capitol Reef National Park. Capitol Reef Country Scenic Byway (UT-24) snaked through the park, mostly nestled in a valley with sandstone on each side.

If you look closely at the bottom of this rock wall you can see some of the Fremont Culture petroglyphs that are preserved within the park.
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The day was full of rich colors. First the contrast of red sandstone and deep greens in Capitol Reef, and then leaving the park these yellow flowers were in bloom.
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Lots of fun canyon roads today, I think this was Black Canyon.
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Osiris Creamery and Granary in the ghost town of Osiris, Utah
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Bryce Canyon was the second national park of the day. The road through it is an out-and-back road, 18 miles each way, and absolutely worth riding every mile of. Both the road and the scenery from the road get increasingly more spectacular as you near mile 18.
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Bryce Canyon Natural Bridge, one of the many great arches in Utah
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Some more of the great colors.
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As I was leaving the national park, I noticed a programmable road sign that read "HAVE A BRYCE DAY," which gave me an honest chuckle.

The last stretch of the day was around 60 miles on US-89 to Kanab, UT and it was quite stressful due to fast paced traffic and being a 2 lane road for the most part. Where there wasn't a passing lane I ended up pulling off at almost every pull off that had signage to let vehicles pass. The much slower motorcycles in the Cannonball Run tend to ride on the shoulder, but I avoid that as much as possible. If you ride on the shoulder other vehicles tend to treat you like a bicycle and pass far too closely not bothering to steer their vehicle to the left side of the lane while passing, and there's often debris littered on the shoulder. One of the Indian single-cylinder bikes got three flat tires in a day from riding on the shoulder earlier in the trip.
 
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dmonkey

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2023.09.21
Kanab, UT to Henderson, NV

Heading out of Kanab I saw a few vehicles pulling off to the shoulder and decided to follow and see what the attraction was. Bison (American buffalo) had caught their attention.
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Sign before the entrance of Zion National Park
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There was already a long queue to to enter Zion. Ben was in front of me in line on his Ner-A-Car which has hub-center steering and is "nearly a car". Ner-A-Cars were originally made in the USA and had a 2-stroke engine, but his is a late model one produced in England with a 4-stroke engine.
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After entering Zion the riding was great and the only other waiting was for the alternating one-way traffic of the 1.1 mile long Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel.
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The stretch of UT-9 that passes through Zion is only a few miles so it was a short ride through the park other than a few scenic stops. The route into Zion Canyon was closed to private vehicles, I believe it can only be accessed by shuttle this time of year.
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Entering the North West corner of Arizona on Historic U.S. 91. It was a short ride through the corner of Arizona before making it into Nevada.
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Lake Mead National Recreation Area in Utah. The morning start off cool but now it's as hot as it looks.
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There's a lot of beautiful desert landscapes in the recreation area. I passed by my dad and his motorcycle on the way to the lake, Jared's bike was laid over a ways off the road and they were fixing a flat.
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Lake Mead
*slaps surface of water* This bad boy can fit so many used car and boat batteries in it!
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The last stop of the day before the hotel was Atomic Motors Classic Cars & Motorcycles in Henderson, Nevada. They had quite the collection of classic cars and one room of motorcycles in their multi-building complex. Almost every vehicle had an info sheet and price on it since they're a dealership and not a museum.
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