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How many watts available from alternator?

yoga addict

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Eventually I’d like to add some auxiliary driving lights. I don’t want to overtax the electrical system. How many watts are available?
thanks!
 

yoga addict

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Oops! I just saw that others had asked about that.

it seems that the alternator puts out 190 watts, which is plenty!
 

yoga addict

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Shoot! I was hoping to add heated grips AND some driving lights. I was looking at some Oxford grips, 120 volts/5 amps on max with auto shut off and low battery detection.


I checked the conversion.

600 watts! 😳 Yikes!
 

G19Tony

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Shoot! I was hoping to add heated grips AND some driving lights. I was looking at some Oxford grips, 120 volts/5 amps on max with auto shut off and low battery detection.


I checked the conversion.

600 watts! 😳 Yikes!

Yea. I guess it takes lots of watts to make warm hands. I have a pair of battery powered gloves I'll use next time.
 

STUBBORN

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Apr 21, 2021
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Eventually I’d like to add some auxiliary driving lights. I don’t want to overtax the electrical system. How many watts are available?
thanks!
Adding LED Lights Project
I am going to add two 4 inch square LED driving lights mounted upside down on the engine crash guards plus a 12 inch flood/spot LED combination light mounted on the top rung of the front rack.
Mechanical
I test fitted the switches. This was hard as I am not mechanically inclined. The two 4 inch square LED lights fit mounted upside down on the crash guards and the 12 inch LED light fits on the top bar of the H2C front rack using 5/8 inch steel and rubber cable clamp mounts with stainless hardware.
Electrical
Switch

The hardest part is obtaining an approved dual LED push button switch. I found several made for 7/8 inch handlebars on Amazon. I can't find any with approvals nor ratings or correct descriptions. Example:
LED Lights.jpg
The descriptions are both wrong, contradictory, and confusing. Sending messages to the various AMAZON sellers in Shenzen is proving to be a waste of time. It takes a lot of time trying to reach them. Seems the wiring diagram of one particular switch tells you to connect the output wire as input and the input wire as output. (see above) This results in the LED in the switch is always ON regardless of the actual switch being ON or OFF thus draining the battery. The Chinese manufactures all say this is the "preferred" wiring method? I found an LED switch maker on Alibaba showing this as the "preferred" wiring hookup. Perhaps this is where this strange wiring hookup originated? Asking Customer Service about anything electrical has been frustrating at best. As far as I can tell, each LED switch has 3 terminals, these are:
terminal 1 12 VDC input to LED switch, the other side of the switch goes to both output terminal 3 and thru a (860 or 680 ohm?) load resistor then thru an LED then to ground terminal 2.

I ordered several Dual LED motorcycle switches from AMAZON. None of those delivered so far have any manufacturer labels, part numbers, safety approval marks, nor any waterproof ratings not even a MADE IN CHINA sticker. I shall confirm the correct switch wiring using the new DMM and performing a bench test.

Power
Power from the alternator = .190 KW @7000 RPM. (190 watts/12 volts = 15.83 amps) my old Fluke 77 DMM only handles 10 AMPS. I ordered a new $24 DMM that measures up to 20 AMPS DC and $6 worth of new clip leads. I shall measure each then the total current of all 3 LED lights before I start tearing STUBBORN the little red donkey apart. I already plug in to a solar panel after parking the motorcycle in the van so the battery gets charged during days.
LED Light Wiring Harness
The LED lights each came with a long wiring harnesses including a dash mount LED ON/OFF switch, a fuse holder with a 30 AMP in line Automotive fuse,
fuse.jpg a 4 pin 40 AMP automotive relay and socket.
(I shall apply Military Rated NO-OX ID part # 10203 NO OX.jpgAMAZON onto the 4 relay terminals to prevent corrosion)

I pulled the wiring harnesses sleeves back a bit from the wires to learn the schematics.
I am glad that the thicker wires went through the relay contacts and the thinner wires went thru the LED switch and the relay coil. The LED switch internals still remain a mystery, as are the volt/amp curve of the LED lights. The short thin wires on the various LED lights are a bit smaller than #20 AWG - metric wire size ampacity charts read 10 AMPS.
Installation
Once I have all that figured out, I shall measure twice then cut the wiring harnesses up so they fit properly inside STUBBORN the little red donkey. I thought about just folding up the long wiring harnesses with wire ties but I do not think there is enough room inside. Anyone have information or any suggestions?
 

milkecrate

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Aug 31, 2022
Messages
33
Maybe an option ,but if you have ever seen those hand warmer sleeves used on ATV's , they are nice if keeping your hands warm are a concern and don't want bogged down with heavy gloves.
I don't see why they wouldn't work on the CT.
 

ChiefPockets

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Jul 8, 2021
Messages
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Location
Detroit, MI

STUBBORN

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Apr 21, 2021
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Keep in mind, that is TOTAL, including what the bike uses for its computers, lights, fuel pump, spark, etc.

Elsewhere it's been estimated that there are about 60W available for aux. gear. That roughly matches with my experience that 45W-50W has voltage draining at idle but maintains acceptably (only a little sag) at speed.
Very good point indeed. I have figured that in when designing the extra lights. If the current load (4 to 5 AMPS) is not that much, say, I just use the 2 driving light LEDS (3 amps or 36 Watts) or just the main 12 inch LED = Unknown current, maybe over 10 AMPS! (120 Watts?)) then I shall be OK only for a limited time using the main LED. Using All 3 LED lights at the SAME TIME may drain the battery so much that charging becomes mandatory.
 

ChiefPockets

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Jul 8, 2021
Messages
32
Location
Detroit, MI
As much as I want that... Are you sure it fits? Partzilla lists no cross compatibility for either the Grom or Trail stators. They're built by different manufacturers. They have different outputs in the diagrams.

2021 Trail:
1664912503412.png

2020 Grom:
1664912527275.png
 

m in sc

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i would bet its a plug difference, thats all. but since pretty much no one lists stuff directly for the trail, its anyones guess. IF it were me, id buy one and try it. email them (steady garage), see if it fits. the 1st gen grom and 2nd carry different numbers as well but i -know- they swap.
 

dmonkey

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Different crankshaft between the CT125 and Grom, I'd ask about fitment before buying. The crankshaft support / stator bearing I installed on my CT125 said it was specific to the CT125 and that a Grom or Monkey one would not fit it.

@G19Tony installed the same one as me, some pics in his build thread here if it helps:
 

m in sc

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has zero to do with the crankshaft. just fyi. as long as the bolt patterns is the same and the OD is the same it should work. honda has been using that 3 bolt pattern for stators for a few decades.
and that's a stator-rotor support bearing, the stator as you know doesn't move. ;) the crankcase cover however, which the stator bolts to, does cross over to the monkey & supercub. id be shocked if it didnt bolt right up.
 
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dmonkey

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If you compare parts visually what looks different in the crankshaft support bearing kits between the CT125 and other Honda 125s is that the CT125 has a different 3-bolt retainer plate that holds the bearing centered in the stator for the crank end nut to pass through. Maybe they just updated the design of that part because the CT125 kit came out later though 🤷‍♂️
Could be other measurements elsewhere, like on the bearing. Can't see potential mm differences in parts photos.

As for calling it a stator bearing, yep, that's a mistranslation that ends up in print that goes with aftermarket parts. "stator outboard bearing" when it's a crankshaft support bearing.
 
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m in sc

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i mean.. personally i have no dog int his fight but it could, i'm sure, be made to work. the trail is nowhere near as prolific as the other models so getting parts to fit from another version is going to be common for a while. .02
elongate the holes in the new stator, its just a steel center on the stator. Just offering up a solution even if some modding comes into play.
 

SneakyDingo

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... I'd consider buying it as a replacement for one that is broken, but not as a swap for the one I already have.
 

m in sc

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I have no desire to swap it, but then again, im not trying to run extra lights or heated grips and a 12v coffee pot off my bike, either. lol.
 

STUBBORN

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Or yer DWARF ALE Fridge which some of us consider as critical gear in summer.
fridge.jpg
 
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