Tires Megathread

[Kev250R]

Others have reported getting 5,400 miles or so out of their OEM rear tire, but not sure the conditions of that. The OEM IRC GP-5 rear I have on my Trail right now (just remounted a few posts up in this thread) is now at 3,500 miles of mostly street use and is near the wear indicators. Unless you get abnormal wear or a puncture on the front, it should last at least twice the mileage of the rear tire. There's one Trail owner pushing 25k miles on the original front tire... and a bit of that riding has been 2-up.

I recently removed my OEM tires in favor of a set of Shinko's. For curiosity I checked the tread depth of the OEM tires. 1,200 miles, solo riding only, 90% Pavement, 10% loose dirt and rocks. IMO They both had many more miles left in them. Their free to good home for anyone in the So.Cal. area who wants them.


Front Tire, 1,200 Miles


Rear tire, 1,200 miles

 

[RedRyder]

Okay deep breath....

I've been pouring over this thread trying to learn all I could about tires, as I'd like to replace the stock tires for something more suitable for a mix of pavement, dirt/gravel, and the occasional technical trail, since they all exist in my area. To clear my head, I am going to try to summarize what I've learned (or think I've learned), and let the more experienced members comment. Here we go:

• I cannot find an ideal combination. Compromises abound. This is complicated by the fact that some of the choices (Kenda 262 e.g.) are out of stock.
• Dual sport tires offer good off-road traction on dirt, gravel, or soft surfaces, but not so much on rocky or wet terrain. They are better on pavement than trial tires. They are harder tires, so won't wear out as soon.
• Trial tires are softer, and so are better for technical trails because they conform to the surface better. They wear out sooner on pavement and are not recommended for long pavement rides. They don't excel in softer surfaces like mud or sand.
• A higher weight rated tire is suggested for the rear tire (50P) if you intend on loading the rack with gear for things like motocamping.
• The ideal combination for me seems to be dual sport 2.75/17 front and 3.0/17/50P rear. However, it is difficult to find such a combination in one tire brand. Mixing and matching brands seems to be the way to go, provided you can find them in stock at the current moment. I do not know if brand mix and match is recommended.
• The "dude I just want some tires" suggestions means if you go with the Shinko 241s you lose weight rating and pavement longevity, and if you go with the 244s you can't get a 2.75 size.
• I will avoid riding in the rain whenever possible.
• I plan to create routes where I seldom or never have to exceed 50MPH, so speed rating is irrelevant.
• Why are they called "trial tires?" Why is there no such thing as a "trail tire?" Did someone just screw up the spelling and it stuck?

In the end, I am leaning towards the Shinko 244s 2.5/3.0 combo. Since my order of riding will be pavement/dirt/technical, they seem the best choice, and they are readily available. The tradeoff is no 2.75 for the front. I'm 5'10" at 215 lbs, so I'd like the higher weight rating in the rear to be sure I won't overload the bike.

That's the brain dump. Thanks for reading.

 

[AZ7000']

I have the 244 3.0’s front and rear. Nothing I would change. I have a 13t front sprocket and have never had the cel on longer than the start up. I drilled the front fender and removed the horn bracket. It ran fine before I drilled the front but grabbed rocks that rubbed inside the front fender.
I’m on dirt as much as pavement

Trial tires are, in theory, way softer and grippier. Google a moto trials competition And you will see!

good luck

 

[dmonkey]

"Trials" is a category of motorcycle, riding, and tire style. It also exists in the mountain bike world. It is different from trail riding in that it is usually much more technical. Think lighter bikes, slower movement, aired down tires, literal bunny hopping, and a requirement that the tires be very soft and grippy. Those same trials tires can also be run on non-specialized motorcycles though, and the result is that you get a short lived tire with just about the best traction possible for rocky terrain. Think Slickrock in Moab, Utah.
Here's a video of a trials bike, trials riding, and on trials tires.

 

[Tex68w]

I am running the 244 3.0's front/rear as well, wouldn't have it any other way. Did the poor mans front fender lift aka re-drill method to clearance the front rubber.

 

[RedRyder]

"Trials" is a category of motorcycle, riding, and tire style. It also exists in the mountain bike world. It is different from trail riding in that it is usually much more technical. Think lighter bikes, slower movement, aired down tires, literal bunny hopping, and a requirement that the tires be very soft and grippy. Those same trials tires can also be run on non-specialized motorcycles though, and the result is that you get a short lived tire with just about the best traction possible for rocky terrain. Think Slickrock in Moab, Utah.
Here's a video of a trials bike, trials riding, and on trials tires.

Wow! Some video! But I am someone who is interested in language use and linguistics, and I would still like to know why the word "trials" is given to this style. The style of riding is clear, but the name attached to the style of riding is not.

 

[RedRyder]

I am running the 244 3.0's front/rear as well, wouldn't have it any other way. Did the poor mans front fender lift aka re-drill method to clearance the front rubber.

Thanks. I am curious as to why you might want to go through the trouble of drilling/lifting the front end just to get a 3.0 tire in there. What is the advantage over a 2.50? Personally, I am trying to avoid the whole fender lifting process, as my skill with tools is limited.

 

[SneakyDingo]

Wow! Some video! But I am someone who is interested in language use and linguistics, and I would still like to know why the word "trials" is given to this style. The style of riding is clear, but the name attached to the style of riding is not.

Trials riding started out as a way to test the capability of the bike. "Can I ride over this?" If you look at it from that etymological perspective, it makes a lot of sense.

Thanks. I am curious as to why you might want to go through the trouble of drilling/lifting the front end just to get a 3.0 tire in there. What is the advantage over a 2.50? Personally, I am trying to avoid the whole fender lifting process, as my skill with tools is limited.

If you don't lift the fender, the front tire rubs at high speed. Redrilling the fender is pretty easy, especially compared to the fender lift kit, which both raises it too high for most people and requires you to flip or remove the horn bracket. The process for both the lift kit and the fender redrill is pretty simple and uses minimal tools, but you don't have to do the horn mod on the redrill mod.

Advantage... there's one big one and two minor ones. Frankly I had no real problems with the 2.50 on the CDT, but a 3.0 would have given me traction in the areas that would have benefited from a slightly wider tire. It is, however, a very minor gain to me. The second reason is a higher load rating, the front tire is a pretty low load rating, but IMO that's a good thing - weigh that front end down too much, even as unsprung weight, and you'll get weird handling characteristics. The biggest reason? You only have to carry a single size replacement tube and it works in both the front and back. Which is still technically true if you use a 2.5 tube in a 3.0 tire, but that's not recommended and it does make the tire install harder.

 

[AZ7000']

Thanks. I am curious as to why you might want to go through the trouble of drilling/lifting the front end just to get a 3.0 tire in there. What is the advantage over a 2.50? Personally, I am trying to avoid the whole fender lifting process, as my skill with tools is limited.

Size queen!
And trials of short for something like “observed trials competition” or something similar

 

[RedRyder]

Trials riding started out as a way to test the capability of the bike. "Can I ride over this?" If you look at it from that etymological perspective, it makes a lot of sense.

Thanks - that does make sense.

If you don't lift the fender, the front tire rubs at high speed. Redrilling the fender is pretty easy, especially compared to the fender lift kit, which both raises it too high for most people and requires you to flip or remove the horn bracket. The process for both the lift kit and the fender redrill is pretty simple and uses minimal tools, but you don't have to do the horn mod on the redrill mod.

Advantage... there's one big one and two minor ones. Frankly I had no real problems with the 2.50 on the CDT, but a 3.0 would have given me traction in the areas that would have benefited from a slightly wider tire. It is, however, a very minor gain to me. The second reason is a higher load rating, the front tire is a pretty low load rating, but IMO that's a good thing - weigh that front end down too much, even as unsprung weight, and you'll get weird handling characteristics. The biggest reason? You only have to carry a single size replacement tube and it works in both the front and back. Which is still technically true if you use a 2.5 tube in a 3.0 tire, but that's not recommended and it does make the tire install harder.

Very nice explanation - thanks. It actually leans me a bit towards staying with the 2.50. The tube situation is tempting, but again, I'm fairly sure I am not going to do such long-distance riding that carrying more than one tube for each tire would be necessary. Of course, now that I've said it, it'll come back to bite me in the butt!

 

[AZ7000']

In Baja I just carry a 21” tube, it can easily be smashed into an 18” rear. I wouldn’t carry a different tube for a 3.0 vs 2.5 with on the same diameter wheel. But as it stands I’m riding the flat home, I’d buy a new tire if needed rather then bust knuckles on a trail for at least an hour.
Has anyone here changed a tube in the wild?

 

[Tex68w]

Trials riding started out as a way to test the capability of the bike. "Can I ride over this?" If you look at it from that etymological perspective, it makes a lot of sense.


If you don't lift the fender, the front tire rubs at high speed. Redrilling the fender is pretty easy, especially compared to the fender lift kit, which both raises it too high for most people and requires you to flip or remove the horn bracket. The process for both the lift kit and the fender redrill is pretty simple and uses minimal tools, but you don't have to do the horn mod on the redrill mod.

Advantage... there's one big one and two minor ones. Frankly I had no real problems with the 2.50 on the CDT, but a 3.0 would have given me traction in the areas that would have benefited from a slightly wider tire. It is, however, a very minor gain to me. The second reason is a higher load rating, the front tire is a pretty low load rating, but IMO that's a good thing - weigh that front end down too much, even as unsprung weight, and you'll get weird handling characteristics. The biggest reason? You only have to carry a single size replacement tube and it works in both the front and back. Which is still technically true if you use a 2.5 tube in a 3.0 tire, but that's not recommended and it does make the tire install harder.

@RedRyder This answers both of your questions and is exactly how I would have replied as well. Drilling for the fender is a breeze, took all of 5-10 minutes and the larger tire clears with ease. In no way should you let that dissuade you from installing a larger front tire.

 

[dmonkey]

If you need a reference photo for the position of the holes, I documented drilling mine in this thread. I would recommend applying some masking/painter's tape before removing the fender so you don't scratch the paint.

 

[RedRyder]

If you need a reference photo for the position of the holes, I documented drilling mine in this thread. I would recommend applying some masking/painter's tape before removing the fender so you don't scratch the paint.

I did read this thread - thanks so much!

 

[RedRyder]

@RedRyder This answers both of your questions and is exactly how I would have replied as well. Drilling for the fender is a breeze, took all of 5-10 minutes and the larger tire clears with ease. In no way should you let that dissuade you from installing a larger front tire.

It does look approachable, but after 50 years of trying to improve my mechanical skills, I know my limitations. You're talking with a person who just spent 20 minutes trying to figure out why the Quadlock he was trying to install wasn't seating properly, only to discover that, after having dropped it at least three times and scattering the pieces, he had seated it upside-down. I'm the guy who wonders where the two bolts he has leftover should go. But thanks for the positive encouragement!

 

[Tex68w]

It does look approachable, but after 50 years of trying to improve my mechanical skills, I know my limitations. You're talking with a person who just spent 20 minutes trying to figure out why the Quadlock he was trying to install wasn't seating properly, only to discover that, after having dropped it at least three times and scattering the pieces, he had seated it upside-down. I'm the guy who wonders where the two bolts he has leftover should go. But thanks for the positive encouragement!

I have faith in you. Take your time, you've got this. That said, if you were local I'd just have you bring it over here and we could knock it out together.

 

[SneakyDingo]

In Baja I just carry a 21” tube, it can easily be smashed into an 18” rear. I wouldn’t carry a different tube for a 3.0 vs 2.5 with on the same diameter wheel. But as it stands I’m riding the flat home, I’d buy a new tire if needed rather then bust knuckles on a trail for at least an hour.
Has anyone here changed a tube in the wild?

I have, depending on your definition of "wild". Got two flat tires on day 1 of the CDT riding over thorns but was able to change them in the "comfort" of a hotel parking lot. If I had a tricycle it would have been three flat tires, and I have an incredibly unflattering photo of me doing it. The hardest part was I went from sea level to 4500 ft elevation pretty much the previous day, and everything is harder when you have mild altitude sickness. Aside from that and the usual "did I remove every source of punctures?" the difficulty was about the same as doing it at home. I even had bead lubricant because I expected to get a flat (just didn't expect it on day 1).

One optimization that could help is the strategic use of zip ties and those easily fit into most toolkits. I dunno if it's reasonable, possible or a stupid idea, but stashing them inside bicycle handlebars was a thing I used to do that can probably be replicated on the Trail 125.

 

[Kritou]

I have, depending on your definition of "wild". Got two flat tires on day 1 of the CDT riding over thorns but was able to change them in the "comfort" of a hotel parking lot. If I had a tricycle it would have been three flat tires, and I have an incredibly unflattering photo of me doing it. The hardest part was I went from sea level to 4500 ft elevation pretty much the previous day, and everything is harder when you have mild altitude sickness. Aside from that and the usual "did I remove every source of punctures?" the difficulty was about the same as doing it at home. I even had bead lubricant because I expected to get a flat (just didn't expect it on day 1).

One optimization that could help is the strategic use of zip ties and those easily fit into most toolkits. I dunno if it's reasonable, possible or a stupid idea, but stashing them inside bicycle handlebars was a thing I used to do that can probably be replicated on the Trail 125.

If you purchase the reusable type they can be zipped to any part of the frame or rack ready for use

 

[JPMcGraw]

@RedRyder

Yeah you got this! Perfect mechanics don't exist, they just leave out important details.

I'm no super mechanic. I'm an IT guy with soft supple hands. I did however watch a few youtube videos and got my big bore kit installed. Now im on my third and hopefully final replacement as long as my fueling is correct this time. I can break down the top end and put it back together in a couple hours compared to the initial 5 hours it took the first time. I don't even need youtube anymore (i wear batman pullups now and they don't crinkle when i walk)! I snapped one of the oil galley head studs, somehow unscrewed the wrong nut and out comes the spring loaded cam chain tensioner rod or whatever its called (fun times figuring out how to orient that thing), buttoned everything up on this last BBK install and realized i forgot the bottom gasket, I have blown the main fuse just about every time i have installed anything electrical, and i just keep on trucking. This winter im installing a bigger oil pump and cleaning the oil spinner and screen. I have no idea how to do any of that but im going to watch a few videos and expect to screw something up somewhere. Then after i get everything fixed and put back together i'll have a new patch on my sash that will shut up any unnecessary anxiety my brain decided to conjure up.

Like i always say when people talk about the tabs on our bikes body panels. Just break the trouble ones off and get that crap out of the way, its freeing.

 

[RedRyder]

I have faith in you. Take your time, you've got this. That said, if you were local I'd just have you bring it over here and we could knock it out together.

And I would definitely take you up on that! The beer's on me!