Tires Megathread

[RedRyder]

@RedRyder

Yeah you got this! Perfect mechanics don't exist, they just leave out important details.

I'm no super mechanic. I'm an IT guy with soft supple hands. I did however watch a few youtube videos and got my big bore kit installed. Now im on my third and hopefully final replacement as long as my fueling is correct this time. I can break down the top end and put it back together in a couple hours compared to the initial 5 hours it took the first time. I don't even need youtube anymore (i wear batman pullups now and they don't crinkle when i walk)! I snapped one of the oil galley head studs, somehow unscrewed the wrong nut and out comes the spring loaded cam chain tensioner rod or whatever its called (fun times figuring out how to orient that thing), buttoned everything up on this last BBK install and realized i forgot the bottom gasket, I have blown the main fuse just about every time i have installed anything electrical, and i just keep on trucking. This winter im installing a bigger oil pump and cleaning the oil spinner and screen. I have no idea how to do any of that but im going to watch a few videos and expect to screw something up somewhere. Then after i get everything fixed and put back together i'll have a new patch on my sash that will shut up any unnecessary anxiety my brain decided to conjure up.

Like i always say when people talk about the tabs on our bikes body panels. Just break the trouble ones off and get that crap out of the way, its freeing.

This is the way. I know I sound like a mechanical wuss, but in truth I am committed to keeping my Trail maintained personally as far as possible. It is a simple machine, and as you mentioned there are a lot of Youtube videos to help. I did the first oil change myself after watching three oil change videos, and still scraped my knuckles on the oil plug because it was so damn tight. Need I mention that the first bolt I tried to take off was a skid plate bolt? In front of me lies a chain tension adjustment, a valve check, and changing the tires. It's just that, because the bike is new to me, I want a chance to ride it before I do something that will break it. I've already broken the gear shifter (awaiting the replacement). And my inventory of tools is minimal - I don't have tire spoons or drill bits yet, and my drill is very old. So it will take awhile for me to collect the proper tools. Apropos of nothing, I am going with the 2.5/3.0 Shinko 244 tires for now to see how they feel. If I don't like it, then in the spring I'll see about drilling the fender and getting another 3.0 in the front. Baby steps!

 

[AZ7000']

If you need a reference photo for the position of the holes, I documented drilling mine in this thread. I would recommend applying some masking/painter's tape before removing the fender so you don't scratch the paint.

I would also make sure to punch a divot or start with a tiny drill bit then enlarge it. I wasn't paying much attention and the drill bit walked so one of the holes is more of an oval!

 

[SneakyDingo]

I wasn't paying much attention and the drill bit walked so one of the holes is more of an oval!

You were engineering it for looser tolerances **taps head** When your drilling technique is from Wish dot com...

This is the way. I know I sound like a mechanical wuss, but in truth I am committed to keeping my Trail maintained personally as far as possible. It is a simple machine, and as you mentioned there are a lot of Youtube videos to help. I did the first oil change myself after watching three oil change videos, and still scraped my knuckles on the oil plug because it was so damn tight. Need I mention that the first bolt I tried to take off was a skid plate bolt? In front of me lies a chain tension adjustment, a valve check, and changing the tires. It's just that, because the bike is new to me, I want a chance to ride it before I do something that will break it. I've already broken the gear shifter (awaiting the replacement). And my inventory of tools is minimal - I don't have tire spoons or drill bits yet, and my drill is very old. So it will take awhile for me to collect the proper tools. Apropos of nothing, I am going with the 2.5/3.0 Shinko 244 tires for now to see how they feel. If I don't like it, then in the spring I'll see about drilling the fender and getting another 3.0 in the front. Baby steps!

Old tools will work just fine. As @AZ7000' says, right technique will get you much farther, and punching a divot into the metal to make sure the bit doesn't wander. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast works for drills AND motorcycles.

For your future work:

• Chain tension adjustment: is straightforward but a torque wrench helps to know the axle nuts are tight enough. A sharpie on the 12mm nut before you start will help you know how far you've turned the adjustment nut too.
• Valve check: I documented mine here.
• Changing tires: I documented mine here.

I've mentioned it elsewhere on the forum but this bike is really the bike I wish I had when I first started riding. It's incredibly forgiving to mechanics and I wouldn't have had the worries I had until now, especially as this is my only bike, and in some ways, one of my only viable options for now to get to and from work. By far this is my favorite quote on the forum for how we should be approaching mechanical work on this bike:

my brother who stopped by reminded me that the bike I'm working on is basically a motorized wheelbarrow and not a Ducati Panigale. A good reminder not to overthink things.

But I will also say go the extra effort when seating that front 2.50" tire (mallet or bounce against the ground), mine needed extra love to seat properly and didn't seat right the first time, AND someone else on the forum mentioned they had the same issue.

 

[RedRyder]

So the tires came, but I did not order tubes. Can I use the ones currently in the OE tires? Or do I need to buy new ones, and if so, any recommendations? I can't quite decipher the tube specifications (70/100, 80/90 etc.). Thanks.

 

[Kritou]

So the tires came, but I did not order tubes. Can I use the ones currently in the OE tires? Or do I need to buy new ones, and if so, any recommendations? I can't quite decipher the tube specifications (70/100, 80/90 etc.). Thanks.

I took this photo of an oem tube inflated to 25psi up against my front wheel. I would venture to suggest that tube width is a non issue!

 

[AZ7000']

I tried the original, then I put more then 2 holes into it during a sub par install attempt... I did much better the second time

 

[23Trail125]

Can't speak to their functionality, but another potential option for knobbies are the Camel CM 705. Can be purchased as a set of rear/rear in 80/100-17 (!) at 8ftweekend.

I first saw what appear to be these same tires in some YouTube video and have been trying to find them since:

View attachment 4440

Can you let me know which youtube video, I'd like to check it out. Thanks!

 

[Oki]

I was looking at a set of Trail 110 OEM tires. They are more off-road oriented than the trail 125 OEM tires. I believe they are made by IRC. Has anyone tried these on their Trail 125?

Part# 42711-102-764

 

[SneakyDingo]

I was looking at a set of Trail 110 OEM tires. They are more off-road oriented than the trail 125 OEM tires. I believe they are made by IRC. Has anyone tried these on their Trail 125?

Part# 42711-102-764

When I google that part number, I don't get what I expect to see for the CT110 OEM tire.

The 90/110/"Honda postie bike" OEM tire I'm familiar with more closely matched the Shinko SR241 or Kenda K262, while the image result of the part number you specified more closely matches the SR244. It's mentioned in the first post that people run both of those tires and are quite happy with them, although the SR241s have a reputation for wearing down fast on pavement. If you search on Amazon, Shinko even has an amazon search result for the CT110 matching the SR241 tires.

 

[dmonkey]

Another data point for OEM IRC GP-5 longevity: I started the month with a new rear tire and it hit the wear indicator earlier today at around 3,000 miles. 99.9% paved riding, avg speed might be around 45 mph, and my bike has gear and accessories on it beyond just my own weight. Up to 3,200 miles on it now. I have a spare rear tire so might strap that to the bike just in case and see how bald it will go as long as there isn't rain in the forecast. After this one is shot I intend to cut it open to visually see how thick the carcass is.

 

[blav367]

Can't speak to their functionality, but another potential option for knobbies are the Camel CM 705. Can be purchased as a set of rear/rear in 80/100-17 (!) at 8ftweekend.

I first saw what appear to be these same tires in some YouTube video and have been trying to find them since:

View attachment 4440

What are these? I need.

 

[villageidiot]

I took this photo of an oem tube inflated to 25psi up against my front wheel. I would venture to suggest that tube width is a non issue!View attachment 7004

what tires are these?

EDIT.... figured it out, continental ContiGo! tires...... what size though? they look great.

 

[Kritou]

what tires are these?

EDIT.... figured it out, continental ContiGo! tires...... what size though? they look great.

 

[Kritou]

Tubeless for street riding

 

[villageidiot]

Tubeless for street riding

but what size is the tire?

 

[Kritou]

but what size is the tire?

They are the same dimensions as the original IRCs 80/90-17

 

[Timmy6216]

Ok. I'm a weirdo. I like the OEM rubber for my needs. I want 3.0 front and rear. I already lifted the fender. I want this for the look, but also the ride. my knobbies wore out after 2600 miles. I'm not mad at them. I realized the street is where my bike lives 98%

I have searched and the GP5s are OEM and nothing more. who knows more than me and can recommend a like OEM tire with the bigger size.

 

[dmonkey]

Ok. I'm a weirdo. I like the OEM rubber for my needs. I want 3.0 front and rear. I already lifted the fender. I want this for the look, but also the ride. my knobbies wore out after 2600 miles. I'm not mad at them. I realized the street is where my bike lives 98%

I have searched and the GP5s are OEM and nothing more. who knows more than me and can recommend a like OEM tire with the bigger size.

The OEM IRC GP-5 tires are size 80/90-17 which is already 3.0-ish. The 80 stands for 80mm or ~3.15".

Tire sizes are a bit arbitrary and knobs add to the external dimensions of a tire beyond the width of the carcass. The same tire's width will also vary based on the width of the rim it is mounted on. If you are looking to run a wider 80/20 dual-sport tire you may want to consider running wider rims than stock. Even then, you'll find that there aren't many options that are 17", wide enough for what you desire while being skinny enough to fit the CT, and reasonably available for purchase to the USA. The IRC GP-5 in 80/90-17 is an OEM tire for the CT125 and CC110 (Cross Cub, which even has them on tubeless wheels) and was likely designed specifically for those Honda Cubs due to a lack of dual-sport tires on the market sized to fit them. Common dual-sport tires like the Michelin Anakee Adventure, Pirelli MT60R, and Shinko 705 all run significantly wider even in their 17" front tire offerings.

A few CT125 owners in Japan are running wider rims paired with Timsun TS823 tires in 100/80-17.


AFAIK that brand isn't sold in the USA and because they are probably not DOT approved it would be a gamble whether or not they would make it through customs if you were to find a company willing to ship them. You might be able to get a shop that sells Dunlop tires to order the Dunlop D604 in 80/90-17 for you which looks slightly wider than the IRC GP-5.

 

[Timmy6216]

The OEM IRC GP-5 tires are size 80/90-17 which is already 3.0-ish. The 80 stands for 80mm or ~3.15".
View attachment 7654
Tire sizes are a bit arbitrary and knobs add to the external dimensions of a tire beyond the width of the carcass. The same tire's width will also vary based on the width of the rim it is mounted on. If you are looking to run a wider 80/20 dual-sport tire you may want to consider running wider rims than stock. Even then, you'll find that there aren't many options that are 17", wide enough for what you desire while being skinny enough to fit the CT, and reasonably available for purchase to the USA. The IRC GP-5 in 80/90-17 is an OEM tire for the CT125 and CC110 (Cross Cub, which even has them on tubeless wheels) and was likely designed specifically for those Honda Cubs due to a lack of dual-sport tires on the market sized to fit them. Common dual-sport tires like the Michelin Anakee Adventure, Pirelli MT60R, and Shinko 705 all run significantly wider even in their 17" front tire offerings.

A few CT125 owners in Japan are running wider rims paired with Timsun TS823 tires in 100/80-17.
View attachment 7655

AFAIK that brand isn't sold in the USA and because they are probably not DOT approved it would be a gamble whether or not they would make it through customs if you were to find a company willing to ship them. You might be able to get a shop that sells Dunlop tires to order the Dunlop D604 in 80/90-17 for you which looks slightly wider than the IRC GP-5.

View attachment 7656

I mistyped I think.... I meant a taller tire not the width, however I do dig the look of the unobtainable tires lol

 

[SneakyDingo]

Unobtanium always seems appealing. I remember as a young lad gazing at Claudia Schiffer...

If you want a 3.0 tire, 17", mostly road going tire which will fit the look of the bike - Duro HF319 3.00-17 would be my top choice. It's not a full slick but I would trust it about as much as I do the stock IRCs on truly off road surfaces, but if you're only doing dirt roads it should do just fine.