Tires Megathread

[AZ7000']

Sorry for the beating of a dead horse, but every shop near me wants $180 to mount and balance these suckers so I need to make the right choice on the first go...

Where do you live? I'll happily mount them for $100, I don't see the need to balance tires on a 275# bike that goes 50-55 in perfect conditions, but please do if you feel the need!

 

[Allhatnocattle]

Where do you live? I'll happily mount them for $100, I don't see the need to balance tires on a 275# bike that goes 50-55 in perfect conditions, but please do if you feel the need!

Austin, Texas

 

[SneakyDingo]

Updated based on a separate discussion with @Allhatnocattle

• Added load and speed ratings for each tire, wherever I was able to find some information.
• Added a load and speed rating lookup below the tires table, so you could check weight and speed of each tire without having to google the same information.
• Added a disclaimer saying that I did my best, but you should definitely triple check the details before buying the tire

 

[Retrov8]

I ordered the VRM-022 2.75-17 from Cedar Rapids Tire back on February 10th. Turns out they were out of stock and backordered. I called the other day and they still have no eta. Does anyone know if anyone has them in stock?

Midwest Traction has them. Shipment just Came in. I ordered two today, and they are shipping Friday March 25th. Orders of $100 get free shipping.

 

[Donkeythekidd]

Has anyone here gotten these? Tempted to order them and see how they look compared to the Kenda k262 that I already have in my garage.... Getting tires mounted is looking like $150 near me, so I want to make sure I get the best tire...

I finally got mine last week. I haven't had time to install them yet. Maybe tomorrow if not Thursday. I'll take some pictures and let you know how it goes. It will be my fist time changing motorcycle tires. I figure I better know how to do it especially if I get a flat 20 miles out in the middle of nowhere.

 

[dmonkey]

May I recommend trying the zip tie method? "Ride with Warro" covered it here:

Having mounted tires on this bike with zip ties and without, I think it's only slightly easier to get the tire on with the zip ties, but it reduces your risk of pinching and puncturing the tube with spoons which has made it my go-to method.

 

[Donkeythekidd]

Has anyone here gotten these? Tempted to order them and see how they look compared to the Kenda k262 that I already have in my garage.... Getting tires mounted is looking like $150 near me, so I want to make sure I get the best tire...

Got them on today. VRM-022 1st time changing motorcycle tires. I didn't use any lube it probably would have made it easier. Took me between 1 1/2 - 2 hours. Here's a few pics

 

[dmonkey]

Those look great, how do they ride?

 

[SneakyDingo]

I think those VRM-022's are going to be my choice for the front tire. I ordered a 241 in the intermediate, but the idea of running a 2.75 VRM-022 and a SR244 3.0 is probably my winning combination.

 

[Donkeythekidd]

Those look great, how do they ride?

They definitely don't handle as nice as the street tires on the street especially in the turns but that is to be expected. I think it's just going to take a while for me to get more comfortable on how these feel. I plan on taking them off roading tomorrow.

 

[SOCO]

Donkeythekidd, those tires look great. I plan to order them as well. Did you put the 2.75 on the front and rear? If you put the 3.00 on the rear, did you have any rubbing?

I viewed the Okie in Thailand video, but couldn't determine if he had any rubbing on the rear. I recall that he was running the 3.00 on the rear.

Anyone else have the VMR-022s and what success with the 3" on the rear?

Thanks

 

[AZ7000']

I had recently posted here my tires were 20 and 15psi or so, I aired them up to the sticker values and definitely feel the knobs on pavement! As the air seeps out I dont think ill keep them that full anymore...

 

[Donkeythekidd]

Donkeythekidd, those tires look great. I plan to order them as well. Did you put the 2.75 on the front and rear? If you put the 3.00 on the rear, did you have any rubbing?

I viewed the Okie in Thailand video, but couldn't determine if he had any rubbing on the rear. I recall that he was running the 3.00 on the rear.

Anyone else have the VMR-022s and what success with the 3" on the rear?

Thanks

2.75 both front and rear

 

[dmonkey]

Found some tire weight data points courtesy of DaBinChe on YouTube.

Shinko SR244	3.00-17	7lb 8oz
Shinko SR241	2.75-17	5lb 15oz
Michelin City Pro	80/90-17	5lb 15oz
IRC GP-1	3.00-17	6lb 5oz
Duro HF307	2.75-17	5lb 3oz

 

[dmonkey]

I wanted to try an IRC FB3 up front and 3R in the rear, but customs shot down that idea by not allowing the tires I purchased from Amazon Japan through. With a nearly bald rear SR241 and snow on the way I decided to mount the IRC TR-1s I was saving to try next winter a bit early.

Figured I'd share some photos from mounting the IRC TR-1 2.75-17, purchased through Dennis Kirk. The tires each weight 5 lb 4 oz making them one of the lighter knobby tire options. I paired them with BikeMaster Performance Motorcycle Tubes TR-4/TR 6 (8mm Valve) in size 2.75-3.00x17 (weighed 19oz each including valve stem nuts and cap). I figured I'm getting good enough at changing tires on these wheels now that I might not need the Double Tough Inner Tubes for pinch resistance when mounting by hand. The old Double Tough tubes I had in the worn Shinko SR241s I removed looked fine. When tubes get too much movement or friction within a tire they will apparently shed small rubber balls similar to how a sweater will pill, there was none of that. I'll keep one of the old tubes as a spare.

The OEM wheels have a very small bead hump, so all you need to do is deflate the tube and press on the sidewall to unseat the bead, no tools required for bead braking unless maybe you're running a really stiff tubeless type tire.


This rust, courtesy of the small holes that the wheels come with, helps show the texture of the wheel against the tire bead that helps prevent it from slipping. Best to clean up the rust with a scrub sponge each time you mount a new tire.


Here is a Shiko SR241 2.75-17 front tire mounted on top, compared to the IRC TR-1 2.75-17 tire mounted on bottom.


The center stand of course makes tire changes a breeze! Very happy the bike has one for both parking and maintenance.


I'm still using the zip-tie method to mount tires as it makes it easier to not pinch the tube while mounting. Removing the brake rotor gives you more room to work the tire levers. Using a tire lube like No-Mar will make it easy to pull the tire on this far by hand, with the rest to be done with the tire spoons. No-Mar is messier than Windex, but seems to work a lot better. With the valve stem fishing tool I've learned to feed the outer valve stem nut over it before sliding it through the valve stem hole in the rim, that way when you pull the valve stem through you can easily just spin the outer nut down on it to grab the tube into place. Much easier than pulling the valve stem through by hand or with the tool and then trying to hold onto the stem by hand to put the nut on.


Here's the IRC-TR1s mounted front and rear




I noticed that the two halves of the tires are slightly misaligned. I don't think that's intentional or matters much, but figured I'd mention it.



With just over 100 miles scrubbed into the IRC-TR1s my initial impressions of the tire have been positive. The rubber compound is definitely harder than the Shinko SR241s, they are easier to get into a skid on dry pavement. They're also a tiny bit narrower than the SR241, and I think the tread rolls smoother due to the longer block tread pattern. Off-road they benefit from being aired down a little and it feels like the sidewall is softer than the SR241s and GP-5s. I think they might end up being a good compromise between longevity and traction compared to the SR241 which has fantastic traction at the cost of longevity. If I were doing slick rock riding in Moab or highly technical terrain I would prefer the SR241s. For milder trails and road use the IRC TR-1s seem good so far.

 

[STUBBORN]

Post Status: Still being maintained.

Hi all,
We have had quite a few threads on which tires, where to get them, etc. In an effort to get that information together, I'd like to start a single (preferably pinned) thread with a single post that has some of the most common tire options and where to get them. This will hopefully be a one-stop-shop for anyone looking for new tires. I will keep updating this first post with information as people add suggestions.

Please also include:
where you buy your tires if you got them at a good price or with exceptional service
links to the manufacturer's website for tires (I'm avoiding linking to Revzilla, etc.)

Tires
Tire options are generally targeted towards the US market unless specified otherwise. When choosing your tire select one that matches your terrain, speed and desired load rating. Please see the disclaimer at the bottom of this post before placing your order.

Model	Size	Type	Other Names	Load Designation (max)
Deestone D982	2.50-17	Motocross	Higher availability in UK, Japanese markets	38L
IRC SR244	2.5-17	Dual Sport	aka Shinko 244	38L
Deestone D982	2.75-17	Motocross	Higher availability in UK, Japanese markets	41P
Duro HF307	2.75-17	Dual Sport		41P
IRC FB3	2.75-17	Dual Sport		41P
IRC NR53	2.75-17	Street		41P
IRC TR-1	2.75-17	Trials		41P
Kenda K262	2.75-17	Trials		41P
IRC GP-5 (OE)	80/90-17	Mild Dual Sport	OEM tires	44P (front), 50P (rear)
CST C186	3.0-17	Trials	Cheng Shin C186	45N
IRC GP-1	3.0-17	Dual Sport		45P
Kenda K262	3.0-17	Trials		45P
Kenda K262	2.75-17	Trials		45P
IRC SR241	2.75-17	Trials	aka Shinko 241	47J
Duro HF319	2.75-17	Street	Vintage motorcycle tire style	47P
Vee Rubber VRM-022	2.75-17	Dual Sport		47R
Vee Rubber VRM-022	3.0-17	Dual Sport		48R
IRC SR244	3.0-17	Dual Sport	aka Shinko 244	50P
Michelin City Extra Scooter Tires	80/90-17	Street		50S
Michelin City Pro Tires	80/90-17	Street		50S
Michelin Pilot Street 2	80/90-17	Street		50S

Rating lookup chart

Rating	KG	Lb	Speed (km/h)	Speed (mph)
38L	132	291	120	50
41P	145	320	150	94
44P	160	353	150	94
45N	165	364	140	87
45P	165	364	150	94
47J	175	386	100	62
47P	175	386	150	94
47R	175	386	170	106
48R	180	397	170	106
50P	190	419	150	94
50S	190	419	180	112

Where do users buy them?

• Rocky Mountain ATV MC (+2)
• Revzilla
• Denniskirk
• Midwest Traction

FAQ
Dude I just want some tires, what makes people happy?

• Shinko 241's in 2.75-17
• OR Shinko 244's in 2.5-17 front, 3.0-17 rear.

What combinations are known to work without modifying the bike?

• Max 2.75" on the front (80/19-17) with no rub, 3.0" with a tiny bit of rub at speed.
• Max 3.0" on the rear.

What happens if I go larger than this?

• Front: Will work, but will rub rocks on the inside of the fender rather than bouncing them around, and at higher speeds (45+ mph) the screws holding the mudflap will rub & make a sound) - +3 users/reviewers confirm.
• Rear: DaBinChe points out the inside of the rear fender area can rub with Shinko 244 3.0's, however the rub is largely cosmetic; larger or taller tires will increase this rubbing. +3 users confirm.
• For the front you can get a fender lift kit or redrill the holes to get slightly more clearance.
• @range rat fit the Shinko 244 3.00-17's with the lift kit successfully, but noted that the fit past the fender bolts was on the tight side.

What's the disclaimer you mentioned?

• Take the load ratings with a grain of salt. Trust, but verify.
• I generally link to and defer to the manufacturer's website wherever possible. This may differ from sites that you actually buy tires from.
• The tire options listed are what I was able to find on the internet and from various tire sites. Some of the details had to come from archived information or returned multiple results (the Duro HF319 tires in particular came up with several load ratings, some far exceeding spec).
• In other cases, the maximum speed rating has been listed but different options exist (e.g. SR244 45P and SR244 50P in the 3.00-17 size, with the difference being tire construction resulting in reduced weight). This is often the case for Front only, or Front and Rear tires.
• Additionally, tire options presented do occasionally drop below the maximum speed and load rating of the bike.
• If you are getting the tires mounted instead of doing it yourself, some non-CT125 riders report that "if you got the tires from Revzilla, they have an arrangement with Cycle Gear in some cities, for reduced price tire changing." The mechanic may offer a discount for certain sources.
• Be EXTRA careful when ordering your tires to make sure you match the specification, size and load rating for your needs.

I found a helpful link that explains a lot about the tire sizes.

https://www.transcanimports.com/downloads/Motorcycle%20%26%20ATV%20Catalogue/zzzVol%20111/01%20Tire%20Section/Tire%20Conversion%20Chart.pdf

 

[MisterB]

Thanks to Sneaky for creating it and thanks to all who contribute to this thread! It might take me a couple seasons to work through these tires but I know where to check if I want to change it up.

 

[Gene56]

Great information thanks for the post!

 

[Cardinal Direction]

Thanks for all of the data, having all these great suggestions make it harder to choose!

 

[wardray]

I wanted to show how various tires sizes impact perceived power. Meaning if I put tires with a larger circumference on, what is the equivalent tooth count change for either the front or rear sprockets. Hope this helps, send me the circumference of your tires and I'll update the table. (see below on how to measure circumference).

I ordered knobbies before I found this forum and Dmonkey's youtube channel. I put on the 3.00x17 Kenda's and like dmonkey, noticed they are slower on hills etc. Two reasons: They are heavier, and bigger around.

1. Weight: heavier tires = bigger moment of inertia meaning it takes longer to accelerate given the same horse power. Also, suspension rebound is slower - shocks have to overcome the upward momentum of the bump force - heavier tires mean more upward momentum which takes the springs/shocks longer to overcome.
2. Larger circumference = less perceived power meaning the bike is slower on hills, doesn't wind out as fast on flat ground, etc.

The table below shows the K262's 3.00x17 compared to the stock OEM tires. Because the 3.00x17 are bigger around I would need to go down 1.5 teeth (from 39 to 37.5) on the rear sprocket to have the same perceived power as the stock tires. Of course a 37.5 doesn't exist, the point is to show the equivalent increase or decrease compared to stock.



I'd like to add more tires to this table. If you measure the circumference and send it to me I'll get them added. The easiest and most accurate way to measure the circumference is to do it when they're mounted and inflated to the correct PSI. Put a piece of tape on the tire, roll the bike until the tape is at the absolute bottom, put another piece of tape on the floor and mark it where the wheel tape is. Then roll the bike forward and mark again where the wheel tape touches the floor. Measure between your marks. I ordered K262s 2.75x17's. I'll get those updated once they come in.