SneakyDingo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2021
- Messages
- 1,573
Odometer: 5115 mi
Weather: Cold and wet. Sucks not being able to do this indoors.
Life changes: OT through the nose, this is the first time since January 4 I've had a weekend free.
I didn't get the chance to do the valve check at 4000 mi, so I did it as soon as I could. I've been working overtime and weekends; one day I might even be able to tell the story about why.
Learning note: This bike is a 4 stroke engine: For every 2 rotations of the crankshaft, each valve only opens once. If it seems too tight for the thinner gauge, rotate the crankshaft once and try again.
My valve check yielded the exhaust valve was slightly out of spec. A quick adjustment and the bike was back together.
Total time: 40 minutes
(some of this time was searching for the other 17mm socket after I'd started because the one I had didn't fit). Technically the task of aligning top dead center could be achieved using the kickstart as well, but I feel like that's a 2 person job, or 1 person and a camera/scope.
Videos:
5mm hex, Spark plug puller
1. Clean the areas around the intake valve cover, the exhaust valve cover and the two caps being removed.
2. Right side of the bike, pull the spark plug.
3. Inspect for 0.03" to 0.04" (0.8-0.9mm) gap. Take photos.
4. Loosen the bolts on the skidpan - not really needed, but I found that I couldn't get my tool in to remove the rearmost bolt of the valve cover without doing it.
Align crank with intake valve adjust position
6mm hex, 10mm hex, 17mm socket, socket extender.
5. Left side of bike, remove the 2 hex covers next to the shifter toe. Don't lose the O-Rings under the covers. The top left is a 6mm allen key.
6. Turn crank manually until the groove on the top right visual port aligns with the Top Dead Center (TDC) T marker. Note: My regular sockets wouldn't fit here. I needed to use a thin wall one.
- Be aware there are two TDC markers. One for exhaust, one for intake.
Inspect the intake valve
8mm socket, 0.003" to 0.005" feeler gauges, valve adjustment tool (maybe)
7. Intake valve is the easier of the two. It's up top, cleaner to get to, etc. Using 8mm socket, remove the intake valve (top) covers carefully. Do not damage the O-ring under the cover.
8. Get the 0.004" and 0.005" feeler gauges and give the tappet and valve a wiggle first before starting. Slide the feeler gauge in between the valve stem and the tappet. Make sure it's parallel. If 0.004" doesn't fit, try 0.003" and make sure it's TDC in the intake cycle.
9. If adjustment is needed, use the valve adjustment tool to adjust the valve, but first check the TDC Maker is in the right place.
10. Clean off the mating surfaces and reassemble the cover.
Inspect the exhaust valve
8mm socket, 0.006" to 0.008" feeler gauges, valve adjustment tool (maybe)
11. Left side of the bike, rotate the crank once to move the crank to top dead center of the exhaust cycle.
12. Get the 0.006", 0.007" and 0.008" feeler gauges.
13. Place a catch for any errant oil under the exhaust port. A rag near the bashplate is a good idea.
14. Loosen the bolts using the 8mm socket and quickly drop the cover down to catch as much oil as possible.
15. Repeat the process used for the intake valve on the exhaust. The feeler gauge angle is a little awkward.
16. When reassembling the cover, quickly replace the cover and then insert the bolts so no oil is lost. The O-Ring should prevent any oil loss if you do it quickly.
Post-Adjustment
8mm socket, 5mm hex, 6mm hex, 10mm hex, 14mm socket + torque wrench @ 8-12 ft lb, Spark plug puller
17. Check there is no errant oil.
18. The covers are just covers and don't need massive amounts of torque to close them. Tighten
- The two bolts on the intake cover
- The two bolts on the exhaust cover
- "Loosen" until it clicks to make sure the cap is not cross threaded, then tighten. Tighten to snug and not much more (1/32" turn after it's hand tight):
- The 6mm hex bolt cover on the left side of the bike.
- The 10mm hex bolt cover on the left side of the bike.
- Spark Plug should be reinserted, tightened and reconnected to electronics. 8-12 ft lbs.
19. Reinstall the bash plate if you removed it.
Adjusting the valve
1. The valve adjustment tool probably separates into two pieces.
2. If the valve is in the wrong place, slightly overtighten the valve with the feeler gauge still in between the valves using the valve adjustment tool inside part only, then reassemble the tool, back it off slightly, and then make sure the valve clearance is correct.
3. As you tighten, it will adjust the valve slightly. Can tighten with the feeler gauge still inserted, which can give a small visual indicator as things are tightened up, and also prevent it from moving as much as you tighten.
4. Tighten everything down and check valve clearance after it's tightened. Verify the go-no go valve feeler gauges will fit and not fit. The no go should not slide in, and the go should just slide in with a bit of resistance.
With the intake valve being adjusted correctly it made life easier with getting the feel for whether it's in spec or not. In my exhaust valve case, it was tight enough that the tool could hang using the 0.006", so it needed adjustment. When it was correctly adjusted the 0.007" would be snug in a similar way but the 0.006" would fall out, and the 0.008" would not fit at all. My spark plug is showing signs of corrosion around it and they're pretty cheap so I've ordered a replacement to be installed at 8000 mi.
Weather: Cold and wet. Sucks not being able to do this indoors.
Life changes: OT through the nose, this is the first time since January 4 I've had a weekend free.
I didn't get the chance to do the valve check at 4000 mi, so I did it as soon as I could. I've been working overtime and weekends; one day I might even be able to tell the story about why.
Learning note: This bike is a 4 stroke engine: For every 2 rotations of the crankshaft, each valve only opens once. If it seems too tight for the thinner gauge, rotate the crankshaft once and try again.
My valve check yielded the exhaust valve was slightly out of spec. A quick adjustment and the bike was back together.
Total time: 40 minutes
(some of this time was searching for the other 17mm socket after I'd started because the one I had didn't fit). Technically the task of aligning top dead center could be achieved using the kickstart as well, but I feel like that's a 2 person job, or 1 person and a camera/scope.
Videos:
- On2Feet's valve clearance check
- DaBinChe's video guide Part 1 and Part 2
- Spark plug puller + 14mm wrench (to turn spark plug puller) + torque wrench if needed for reinsertion.
- Valve adjustment tool - this is the one I used, but they're all pretty similar.
- Feeler gauges - 0.003", 0.004", 0.005", 0.006", 0.007", 0.008" (the important ones are bolded)
- 5mm Hex
- 6mm Hex
- 10mm Hex
- 8mm socket
- 17mm thin wall socket
- Flashlight to easily see top dead center
- Replacement spark plug if needed: Stock CPR6EA-9 (heat range 6)
5mm hex, Spark plug puller
1. Clean the areas around the intake valve cover, the exhaust valve cover and the two caps being removed.
2. Right side of the bike, pull the spark plug.
3. Inspect for 0.03" to 0.04" (0.8-0.9mm) gap. Take photos.
4. Loosen the bolts on the skidpan - not really needed, but I found that I couldn't get my tool in to remove the rearmost bolt of the valve cover without doing it.
Align crank with intake valve adjust position
6mm hex, 10mm hex, 17mm socket, socket extender.
5. Left side of bike, remove the 2 hex covers next to the shifter toe. Don't lose the O-Rings under the covers. The top left is a 6mm allen key.
6. Turn crank manually until the groove on the top right visual port aligns with the Top Dead Center (TDC) T marker. Note: My regular sockets wouldn't fit here. I needed to use a thin wall one.
- Be aware there are two TDC markers. One for exhaust, one for intake.
Inspect the intake valve
8mm socket, 0.003" to 0.005" feeler gauges, valve adjustment tool (maybe)
7. Intake valve is the easier of the two. It's up top, cleaner to get to, etc. Using 8mm socket, remove the intake valve (top) covers carefully. Do not damage the O-ring under the cover.
8. Get the 0.004" and 0.005" feeler gauges and give the tappet and valve a wiggle first before starting. Slide the feeler gauge in between the valve stem and the tappet. Make sure it's parallel. If 0.004" doesn't fit, try 0.003" and make sure it's TDC in the intake cycle.
9. If adjustment is needed, use the valve adjustment tool to adjust the valve, but first check the TDC Maker is in the right place.
10. Clean off the mating surfaces and reassemble the cover.
Inspect the exhaust valve
8mm socket, 0.006" to 0.008" feeler gauges, valve adjustment tool (maybe)
11. Left side of the bike, rotate the crank once to move the crank to top dead center of the exhaust cycle.
12. Get the 0.006", 0.007" and 0.008" feeler gauges.
13. Place a catch for any errant oil under the exhaust port. A rag near the bashplate is a good idea.
14. Loosen the bolts using the 8mm socket and quickly drop the cover down to catch as much oil as possible.
15. Repeat the process used for the intake valve on the exhaust. The feeler gauge angle is a little awkward.
16. When reassembling the cover, quickly replace the cover and then insert the bolts so no oil is lost. The O-Ring should prevent any oil loss if you do it quickly.
Post-Adjustment
8mm socket, 5mm hex, 6mm hex, 10mm hex, 14mm socket + torque wrench @ 8-12 ft lb, Spark plug puller
17. Check there is no errant oil.
18. The covers are just covers and don't need massive amounts of torque to close them. Tighten
- The two bolts on the intake cover
- The two bolts on the exhaust cover
- "Loosen" until it clicks to make sure the cap is not cross threaded, then tighten. Tighten to snug and not much more (1/32" turn after it's hand tight):
- The 6mm hex bolt cover on the left side of the bike.
- The 10mm hex bolt cover on the left side of the bike.
- Spark Plug should be reinserted, tightened and reconnected to electronics. 8-12 ft lbs.
19. Reinstall the bash plate if you removed it.
Adjusting the valve
1. The valve adjustment tool probably separates into two pieces.
2. If the valve is in the wrong place, slightly overtighten the valve with the feeler gauge still in between the valves using the valve adjustment tool inside part only, then reassemble the tool, back it off slightly, and then make sure the valve clearance is correct.
3. As you tighten, it will adjust the valve slightly. Can tighten with the feeler gauge still inserted, which can give a small visual indicator as things are tightened up, and also prevent it from moving as much as you tighten.
4. Tighten everything down and check valve clearance after it's tightened. Verify the go-no go valve feeler gauges will fit and not fit. The no go should not slide in, and the go should just slide in with a bit of resistance.
With the intake valve being adjusted correctly it made life easier with getting the feel for whether it's in spec or not. In my exhaust valve case, it was tight enough that the tool could hang using the 0.006", so it needed adjustment. When it was correctly adjusted the 0.007" would be snug in a similar way but the 0.006" would fall out, and the 0.008" would not fit at all. My spark plug is showing signs of corrosion around it and they're pretty cheap so I've ordered a replacement to be installed at 8000 mi.